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70 V code Roadrunner just fired up, been down since June

biomedtechguy

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Last show I was in was Mopars at the Battleship. I decided to install TTi ceramic coated polished 1 7/8th primary tube headers and the mini-saga began...found my 18 spline a833 was leaking from the front seal, so I sent it to Passon performance for a complete overhaul and to have the slick shift synchronizers and sliders installed. Jamie Passon did a thorough inspection and we decided to replace 3rd gear and the input shaft too along with some other parts. I also got a new McLeod clutch disc and pressure plate and had the flywheel resurfaced. New steering gear box as my old one was leaking. I also had a snapped manifold stud so when I was getting that drilled out and tapped I had Ebert's machine shop check the valve springs pressure which was down about 35% so I got a set of Comp Cams springs, 10° locks, and retainers for both heads. Well, I JUST fired it up yesterday (the goal was to have it ready for the week of Cruisin the Coast Oct 3rd through 11th and it was awesome to hear it running! I have to complete the exhaust by installing my 3" diameter Doug's electric cutouts and an X pipe which then will tie into the existing 3" FlowMaster muffled system. Shifting is crisp and precise with a nice precise "click" "click". Clutch pedal effort is significant, I am going to have a weird looking "running back's" left leg by the time I have finished cruisin the whole week in traffic at Cruisin the Coast LOL. Still have some tidying up to do, but see pix. 20150926_131142.jpg20150926_130712.jpg
 
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I feel your pain. Went to do a cam and lifter swap and it has morphed into a huge ordeal as well. Nothing is easy. Enjoy your car.
 
Thanks, for me, it's about doing it right. It wouldn't make sense not to have done what I did since all of those parts and processes were interrelated. The valve covers you see actually were the catalyst, they don't fit with stock exhaust manifolds! Lol.
 
Looks great, when restoring a car it NEVER turns out the way you initially intend it to, especially when it comes to the financial aspects...

I have learned a good method, I have 2 different types of resto's that I do for my self, there are the cars I am going to sell, which I will cruise for a season then sell at the beginning of the next, and then there are the cars that I will keep...

A car I plan on selling, gets a decent resto BUT not much that is doesnt need, for instance a tranny that I pulled and worked well with out leaking wont be rebuilt, same with rear end and in a couple cases where the engines were previously restored I wont crack them either, pretty much aesthetics at that point, and I am more likely to repair than replace most panels and parts...
A car I am keeping, get a rebuilt driveline no matter what, and everything gets restored from the pedal sets to the lights, them are easier to predict the cost of because you know you need everything...
 
This one's a keeper. Lots of issues that a thorough inspection would have uncovered when I went to Fast Lane in St. Charles Missouri to buy it, but I was caught up in the moment. I did have them address some things before I left, and it is a real V code. I have been advised by several people who should know that the sheet metal is good and original. Long story short, lots of details missed by them/previous owners, but as I discover them I am setting them straight. Not looking for Mopar original identical correct nuts and bolts, but at least making the ones in groups/areas that should be the same as one another the same. My guiding priority has been safety and preservation, and I am sticking to that guide pretty closely. Thanks for the advise.
 
Update: car runs better than ever! I credit the new valve springs from Comp Cams (that replaced the worn stock springs that were down by 35%) Pulls strong all the way through the upper RPM range instead of the previously noticeable roll off in power. Transmission work by Passon is incredible! Used to feel like I was stirring a bucket of $hit and bolts, now it's firm and crisp. I got the exhaust finished today with the 3" Doug's electronic cutouts and X pipe tied into what happily turned out to be a 3" (not 2 1/2") FlowMaster existing system. Cutouts open and close FAST in about 2 seconds!20150928_110850.jpg20150928_110959-1-1.jpg
 
You might want to put some turn downs on those cutouts so you don't burn the interior carpet. I use turn downs on my QTP cut outs.
 
You might want to put some turn downs on those cutouts so you don't burn the interior carpet. I use turn downs on my QTP cut outs.
I am leaving tomorrow for a full week of Cruisin the Coast. I will evaluate floor heat as I am sure there will be lots of stop-and-go traffic (I mean cruzin' activities)
If the floor starts getting too hot, I'll just close them for a while. Thanks.
 
I'm here at Cruisin the Coast. Monday of a week long event and there's already too many cars to count! Great B-Bodies and other Mopars, even some great cars from those "other guys" lol. Electronic cutouts with the TTi headers are real headturners when I arrive at a venue.
 
Great looking engine and bottom. How about some pics of the rest of the car when you get time. and pics from the cruise of the other mopars you see. Enjoy your time cruising.
 
Great looking engine and bottom. How about some pics of the rest of the car when you get time. and pics from the cruise of the other mopars you see. Enjoy your time cruising.

See "Mopar Events Meets and Car Shows" Cruisin the Coast pix thread
 
Engine bay looks outstanding and you will love those cut-outs!

Can't wait to see some pic's from the cruise! :icon_salut:
 
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