72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

[supergluehero]

Damn that is close, what motor mounts are you using?

RMS front end and mounts. They're not solid if that's what you're getting at. I wonder if that module can be relocated.....

 

[70chall440]

RMS front end and mounts. They're not solid if that's what you're getting at. I wonder if that module can be relocated.....

No I wasn't implying or wondering if they were solid, I was more interested in the brand and where they located the engine. I don't know what module that is, what year engine is it and what is it out of? (I am sure this info in in this thread but I am too lazy to look... lol)

 

[ckessel]

Time to get Michael Jackson in the background singing "Beat It". Mallet time. Give it at least a thumb width wort of clearance. Or cut the profusion, on the metal, reverse it and weld back on. Make it an inny instead of an outie.

 

[70chall440]

RMS front end and mounts. They're not solid if that's what you're getting at. I wonder if that module can be relocated.....

In the current edition of Mopar Action E burg is putting a 6.4 into an A body and he shows that module I think which he says in a Short Runner Valve (SRV) which I do not believe can be relocated. He cut his firewall to make room but then said he is going to move the engine forward 5/8, so I am not sure what he has going on.

 

[ckessel]

I had a Mc Fly moment after I commented. I forgot you already painted the firewall. Can't be cutting on that now.

 

[supergluehero]

I had a Mc Fly moment after I commented. I forgot you already painted the firewall. Can't be cutting on that now.

Yeah, I had to clearance the fender already, but that was in a less structurally sound place. This spot will put up some resistance.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Yeah, I had to clearance the fender already, but that was in a less structurally sound place. This spot will put up some resistance.

I'd probably opt to cut it and dish in a new piece. Yes, body work and paint, but if you dimple it with a hammer, you're going to bruise the paint regardless and will still need to address that.

 

[supergluehero]

I got my fuel fittings so I went ahead and mounted my regulator. I installed a couple rivnuts in the firewall. Will be a little annoying to remove my blower motor if I need to, but at least it's just the return line that will need to be disconnected.

 

[70chall440]

I got my fuel fittings so I went ahead and mounted my regulator. I installed a couple rivnuts in the firewall. Will be a little annoying to remove my blower motor if I need to, but at least it's just the return line that will need to be disconnected.
View attachment 1541818View attachment 1541819

Nice work, I am right behind you as I need to mount my regulator as well, most likely in pretty much exactly the same spot and I will do it in exactly the same way.

 

[supergluehero]

I got my fuel filter mounted and my fuel lines made. I was under the impression that hoses would be easier to make than hard lines. I'm not sure I still believe that. I still have to take them off and undercoat my frame connectors. I really need one more 45deg fitting instead of the 90 on my fuel tank, but I'll leave it for now.

 

[70chall440]

I guess it is a matter of prospective, I like making the hard lines and hate doing SS braided but I have done a lot of it so I know how to. I always make the lines from my tank forward out of hard lines and then post filter go soft (usually).

Nice job either way. I am going to be mounting my filter in basically the same place as you did. Originally I was going to put my filter on the other side of the T bar cross member but I just realized it would be right next to the header and be pretty difficult to get to so now I am going to move it.

 

[supergluehero]

I guess it is a matter of prospective, I like making the hard lines and hate doing SS braided but I have done a lot of it so I know how to. I always make the lines from my tank forward out of hard lines and then post filter go soft (usually).

Nice job either way. I am going to be mounting my filter in basically the same place as you did. Originally I was going to put my filter on the other side of the T bar cross member but I just realized it would be right next to the header and be pretty difficult to get to so now I am going to move it.

I wanted to keep the filter closer to the tank and that section of the sub-frame connector was a taller than the rest. It's also pretty easy to get to if needed. I think the nylon braid over the SS braid is what made it difficult. You really have to compress the nylon to get it through the fitting. It took a lot of trial and error to get a system down. I was lucky I had a few spare ferrules as well.

 

[70chall440]

I wanted to keep the filter closer to the tank and that section of the sub-frame connector was a taller than the rest. It's also pretty easy to get to if needed. I think the nylon braid over the SS braid is what made it difficult. You really have to compress the nylon to get it through the fitting. It took a lot of trial and error to get a system down. I was lucky I had a few spare ferrules as well.

What line are you using?

 

[supergluehero]

What line are you using?

Hot Rod Fuel Hose
AN-6 Braided Nylon Kit

I liked being able to choose the colors. The blue is a really good match to B5.

 

[70chall440]

Hot Rod Fuel Hose
AN-6 Braided Nylon Kit

I liked being able to choose the colors. The blue is a really good match to B5.

Interesting stuff, I am using Earls Speed Flex which has a PVC coating on the outside but braided inner liner and PTFE inner core. Somewhat similar but with the Earls you cut the PVC coating back so you are only dealing with the inner braided part. I chose this because I felt it would be very durable but we will see. Previously on my 73 Cuda and 70 Challenger I use Fragola Series 8000 push lock hose and fitting which I really like but that has a rubber inner liner and a buddy has convinced me that I will have to change it all out at some point because the rubber falls apart.

 

[supergluehero]

What is everyone's thoughts on parking brake cables with subframe connectors? The sheathing on the cable stops before the subframe connector so I'm not to keen on having the bare cable rub against the plate edge. I'm considering running the cable on the outside of the driver's side similar to the rear brake line and then have the passenger side jump across above the rear axle. Also it looks like I'm going to have to make my own bracket to connect the stock cable to the new cable.

 

[70chall440]

I ran my cable through my SFC as I do all the cars I build. I cut a hole/s base on the angle and many times put a tube through the SFC and weld up each side just to maintain the strength or I make covers around the cable to cover up the but hole. Normally the tube needs to be smashed a bit and be more like a oval.

 

[supergluehero]

I ran my cable through my SFC as I do all the cars I build. I cut a hole/s base on the angle and many times put a tube through the SFC and weld up each side just to maintain the strength or I make covers around the cable to cover up the but hole. Normally the tube needs to be smashed a bit and be more like a oval.

Hmm, would be easier if the SFC weren't already installed. I'll have to check that option out

 

[70chall440]

It is easier but can be done either way, the tricky part is getting the angle down but if you use a relatively decent size of pipe when you smash it to create the oval it elongates so you get a lot of maneuver room. I will try and get you some pics.

 

[ckessel]

What is everyone's thoughts on parking brake cables with subframe connectors? The sheathing on the cable stops before the subframe connector so I'm not to keen on having the bare cable rub against the plate edge. I'm considering running the cable on the outside of the driver's side similar to the rear brake line and then have the passenger side jump across above the rear axle. Also it looks like I'm going to have to make my own bracket to connect the stock cable to the new cable.

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