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72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

Here is a RR I did

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I ran my cable through my SFC as I do all the cars I build. I cut a hole/s base on the angle and many times put a tube through the SFC and weld up each side just to maintain the strength or I make covers around the cable to cover up the but hole. Normally the tube needs to be smashed a bit and be more like a oval.
How have you mounted the union bracket? Since the Wilwood cables have a sleeve, it has to be anchored somewhere.
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Here's what I was thinking (excuse the crude drawing):
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Instead of routing the bare cable (gray) through the SFC, route it along side the SFC (purple) and connect to the union bracket (orange) mounted to the side of the SFC. Then both new cables (blue) route following the brake line. I would need to make sure the cable has enough bend radius on the passenger side to enter at the right angle. Otherwise I could kink it. I'll also have to fab up a bracket to connect the existing front cable to the Wilwood adjuster bolt bracket.
 
Full disclosure I have not hooked up the cable on the car I showed you yet or on my Charger which is similar to the RR (in terms of the parking brake cable routing through the SFC). I am not exactly sure how I will address this just yet but what I am thinking is to bring the pass side cable over to the drivers side where it would meet with the drivers side and connect to the union block, then the factor cable would connect to a new cable to go to the union block. The mounting should not be a big deal as there is a lot of space available back there for that purpose along the frame rails.
 
Somehow I completely missed your pictures. Were the plates just temporary or was that just a separate car?
The first 4 pictures are of the Roadrunner I did and the plates are to clean up the hole which is much larger. The last 2 pictures are of pass through tube I put on the same car to accommodate the fuel lines but I showed it to demonstrate making and installing an oval tube into a frame rail or in this case it was a cross member.
 
Very nice, I agree that these cars lend themselves very well to this type of swap.


If I was to do another project car. Something with the modern hemi would be it.
 
I fabbed up a bracket to connect the pedal cable to the new Wilwood bracket.
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I got the rear end back from the shop. The repaired the cracked welds on the cover as well as installed the gears and the tru-trak. I was out of town this weekend, but finally got some paint on it before I install the axles and brakes.
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Brake lines installed. My flares are a bit questionable, hopefully it doesn't leak. One of these days I'll figure out the art of making high quality hard lines. But for now, they're good enough.
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I just rented one from the auto parts store.
Gotcha. I have all manner of flare tools (and benders) because I became a bit obsessed with the subject. I have a hydraulic flare tool that produces perfect flares every time and does 37 and 45 degree flares (AN and Brakes essentially).

I just bought a turret style flare tool that does 37 and 45 degree flares because I wanted to see how well (or not) they work. I can report that the turret style does work very well and provides very consistent results.

I even just got a small hand held unit designed on for 45 degree flares in 3/16 line that allows you to flare a line on a car. The hydraulic unit could do that but its pretty big and would be a PIA.

Not much going to piss you off more than to have a bunch of brake lines leaking.
 
By the picture it looks like you ran hard lines to the calipers. You need flex lines there, to facilitate caliper removal for pads etc, about a foot long then hardline line from there to tee.
 
By the picture it looks like you ran hard lines to the calipers. You need flex lines there, to facilitate caliper removal for pads etc, about a foot long then hardline line from there to tee.
It looks like the calipers are fixed, if so then the hard lines would be ok.
 
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