72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

[ckessel]

Gotcha.

 

[70chall440]

Gotcha.

Even with fixed calipers I do a flexible line to facilitate the removal of the caliper but you can do hard lines to them as well without issue because there is always a slight amount of flex that will allow removal.

 

[supergluehero]

By the picture it looks like you ran hard lines to the calipers. You need flex lines there, to facilitate caliper removal for pads etc, about a foot long then hardline line from there to tee.

I considered that, but the pads come out the top after pulling the long cotter pin. Also the calipers are fixed, not floating like most OEM style. Therefore you don't need the flex to allow movement. Only time I'll need to disconnect the line is when I'm pulling the rotor for some reason.

 

[supergluehero]

I got my axle in. Not as easy of a task as I was expecting. Not technically hard, just annoying.

Pinion angle looks low, but I think that's because I'm at full droop. It should improve once I get the shocks on.

Also, my recently created brake line has an issue....

 

[70chall440]

looks good, I've done the same brake line deal in the past... lol

 

[supergluehero]

Installing the shocks was harder than it should have been. I have some suggestions for Ridetech, but I got them in.

Also got the car back down on all fours. I was worried that there wouldn't be enough drop in the back, but that's not going to be a problem.

Back needs to come up and the front needs to go down. This new system doesn't have bump stops in the back. Any thoughts on that?

 

[ckessel]

A little craftiness. Get an idea where they would be best mounted and see what you can adapt in.

 

[70chall440]

Installing the shocks was harder than it should have been. I have some suggestions for Ridetech, but I got them in.
View attachment 1555648
Also got the car back down on all fours. I was worried that there wouldn't be enough drop in the back, but that's not going to be a problem.
View attachment 1555649
View attachment 1555650
Back needs to come up and the front needs to go down. This new system doesn't have bump stops in the back. Any thoughts on that?

Looks good.

I would definitely fab up some bump stops, are the stock ones at the top of the frame arch over the rear end too thick?

 

[supergluehero]

Looks good.

I would definitely fab up some bump stops, are the stock ones at the top of the frame arch over the rear end too thick?

The cross bar bolted into one of the holes where the bump stops was. It might still work, but I need to look at it more. The shocks have a built in bump stop on the shaft, but it might not be enough.

 

[70chall440]

The cross bar bolted into one of the holes where the bump stops was. It might still work, but I need to look at it more. The shocks have a built in bump stop on the shaft, but it might not be enough.

Yeah I'd probably fabricate something other than what is on the shocks.

 

[5.7 hemi]

You should be using a flex line to the caliper and those shocks seem to need stiffer springs.

 

[supergluehero]

You should be using a flex line to the caliper and those shocks seem to need stiffer springs.

Read above for why I'm not using a using a flex line. I've got the coilovers at the lowest setting right now. There's plenty of adjustability left to bring them up to where it needs to be.

 

[supergluehero]

I started doing a little wiring research today starting with the starter. I feel like if I were starting from scratch I could get the engine running, but I might have power issues in the existing harness. The black wire at the bottom I believe is a ground for the neutral safety switch. Not sure I need that anymore. Can anyone confirm? Also this arrangement had a dedicated wire go from the battery to the starter and then another from the battery to the relay (not attached to the top terminal in the picture below). Since I'm relocating the battery to the trunk and don't want to run multiple wires, can't I just run the smaller wire from the main post on the starter to the relay? Also this arrangement is pretty ugly. I'd be open to something better/more modern.

 

[70chall440]

With the safety neutral switch that terminal needs to be grounded if you are not actually running a SNS.

Technically yes you can run say a 10g wire from the main power wire to the starter relay instead of running a long run from the battery there. That said, I would recommend that you think about mounting a battery disconnect somewhere up front, then run your main power to that, from there you can run both another heavy (Og) cable and a smaller (10g) wire as depicted in the diagram. I usually like to use a disconnect that is activated by a toggle switch, this allows me to hide it under the dash (or elsewhere) and serves as a theft deterrent. Usually you can run things like your clock or something that needs constant 12V to remain active to it.

Not sure what to tell you about it being "ugly", kind of a personal call. I tend to like the relays because it allows me to remotely active the starter from under the hood (I always build in a lead that has a quick disconnect that I can connect a remote starter button to).

You are running your ECU directly to your battery correct both positive and negative correct?

 

[supergluehero]

I had considered running a distribution block by running a wire from the starter. Something about not having a straight shot from the battery to the starter seems a little iffy, but I've seen it done and I'm still considering it. I was planning on using the distribution block to power any of my relays. I haven't gotten very far electrically, so I haven't thought about the ECU yet.

 

[70chall440]

I don't know your experience level so if I am way off base just ignore this but I have done this a few times already and here is my advice;

1. Highly recommend a battery disconnect, with all of the electronics it is beneficial to be able to turn most of it off with one switch (other than the ignition).

2. Since you are going to be using the stock harness, you are going to need to tap into the ign 1 and 2 circuits (blue and brown wires coming off the switch). You can do this several ways but one of the best is to use a relay. If you search online you will find the diagram.

3. You MUST run your ECU power and ground directly to the battery or you will end up with issues down the line.

4. Most of the problems experienced when putting EFI or a G3 Hemi drive train can be traced straight back to the lack of or bad grounds. You MUST run a solid ground to the cylinder head/s. The Holley kit comes with 1 wire for this purpose but I recommend you run another to the other head.

5. Use relays for anything and everything you can.

6. Use an additional accessory fuse box/power distribution. This will provide a fused accessible location to run any and all accessories for both power and ground. I usually use something like this; Amazon product ASIN B001P6FTHC
7. I crimp and solder every joint/connection. I know there are those who say that soldering isn't necessary and in some cases detrimental, however having done Mopar wiring since about 75 I hate having crap fall apart. I NEVER use those crimp on connectors that you get at all the auto parts stores, I remove the insulation and then crimp/solder and heat shrink them.

8. Most of the connectors you will find in your car are Packard 56 types which are available but there are a variety of types out there so be prepared to get pissed off some... lol

9. good tools are a must, however there are so many out there and most are not cheap. Here are the 2 I use the most and will do 80% of all electrical needs.

A. Amazon product ASIN B071KFLY43 B. American Autowire CRIMPER DOUBLE 510586

10. Lastly, if you don't have a digital copy of the factory Chassis manual (not the body manual) you need to go to www.mymopar.com and down load it. Go to chapter 8 and print off the diagrams that apply to your car/situation. I also draw all my own diagrams for anything outside of the factory on Power Point (easy for me), things like the switches, accessories, etc. and I have everything in a large 3 ring binder for reference.

Bonus - bench test a much as you can, saves a lot of time.

 

[supergluehero]

I don't know your experience level so if I am way off base just ignore this but I have done this a few times already and here is my advice;

1. Highly recommend a battery disconnect, with all of the electronics it is beneficial to be able to turn most of it off with one switch (other than the ignition).

2. Since you are going to be using the stock harness, you are going to need to tap into the ign 1 and 2 circuits (blue and brown wires coming off the switch). You can do this several ways but one of the best is to use a relay. If you search online you will find the diagram.

3. You MUST run your ECU power and ground directly to the battery or you will end up with issues down the line.

4. Most of the problems experienced when putting EFI or a G3 Hemi drive train can be traced straight back to the lack of or bad grounds. You MUST run a solid ground to the cylinder head/s. The Holley kit comes with 1 wire for this purpose but I recommend you run another to the other head.

5. Use relays for anything and everything you can.

6. Use an additional accessory fuse box/power distribution. This will provide a fused accessible location to run any and all accessories for both power and ground. I usually use something like this; Amazon product ASIN B001P6FTHC
7. I crimp and solder every joint/connection. I know there are those who say that soldering isn't necessary and in some cases detrimental, however having done Mopar wiring since about 75 I hate having crap fall apart. I NEVER use those crimp on connectors that you get at all the auto parts stores, I remove the insulation and then crimp/solder and heat shrink them.

8. Most of the connectors you will find in your car are Packard 56 types which are available but there are a variety of types out there so be prepared to get pissed off some... lol

9. good tools are a must, however there are so many out there and most are not cheap. Here are the 2 I use the most and will do 80% of all electrical needs.

A. Amazon product ASIN B071KFLY43 B. American Autowire CRIMPER DOUBLE 510586

10. Lastly, if you don't have a digital copy of the factory Chassis manual (not the body manual) you need to go to www.mymopar.com and down load it. Go to chapter 8 and print off the diagrams that apply to your car/situation. I also draw all my own diagrams for anything outside of the factory on Power Point (easy for me), things like the switches, accessories, etc. and I have everything in a large 3 ring binder for reference.

Bonus - bench test a much as you can, saves a lot of time.

A lot of this I know, but that's a super helpful post, the kind of post that makes this site so great. Thanks for the time and advice.

I was planning on using a relay box like this:
Relay box

I've been tracing the wiring diagrams. I hadn't quite figured out which wire was the accessory and which one was the "on" or "run" (blue and brown wire).

 

[70chall440]

A lot of this I know, but that's a super helpful post, the kind of post that makes this site so great. Thanks for the time and advice.

I was planning on using a relay box like this:
Relay box

I've been tracing the wiring diagrams. I hadn't quite figured out which wire was the accessory and which one was the "on" or "run" (blue and brown wire).

Yeah that box will work if you need that many relays (which you might). This is the relay/fuse box I use for the headlights and another one for driving lights if I have them. It is great because it is small and water tight. Amazon product ASIN B00HKIHHRO
In reference to the 2 wires, I'd have to look but one of them has power during cranking and the other in the run position, you need both.

 

[supergluehero]

Turns out the stock bump stops still fit so back on they went. I also raised the rear about an inch. Still haven't put the car back down to check yet though.

I know I'm going a little against the grain on this, but I ran my parking brake cables. They run down the outside of the driver's side subframe connector and follow the brake line. Seems to have good pedal feel. I need to adjust the brakes though because they're not working yet

 

[70chall440]

Hey whatever works, looks good. Good deal on the bump stops.