As I was getting the mower out of the barn (uughh, it's that time of year again), I gave the separator a shake... it rattles!
73 Charger - Vapor Separator?
- Thread starter Hilljack68
- Start date
(Is that the only difference between the '72 and '73?)
Not Sure, my car is kind of an abortion, and I don't have all of the specks and details of who did what. I also had a leaky fuel sender from the tank; so, while I had it up on blocks, I decided I wanted a stainless-steel sender. I got one from Summit Racing. Unfortunately, they only had one in 3/8" instead of 5/16". Then, I had trouble getting a hose adapter. I didn't want to use a coupling & threaded adapter, so I ended up ordering a double barbed, one-piece brass 3/8" x 5/16" from a marine supply as even searching on multiple Autopart's &/or racing suppliers yielded nothing. The next issue was that the stainless-steel lock ring was too thin to seal at the tank. I ended up using the original steel lock ring and all was well. Nuthin like fun N"Games!
Not Sure, my car is kind of an abortion, and I don't have all of the specks and details of who did what. I also had a leaky fuel sender from the tank; so, while I had it up on blocks, I decided I wanted a stainless-steel sender. I got one from Summit Racing. Unfortunately, they only had one in 3/8" instead of 5/16". Then, I had trouble getting a hose adapter. I didn't want to use a coupling & threaded adapter, so I ended up ordering a double barbed, one-piece brass 3/8" x 5/16" from a marine supply as even searching on multiple Autopart's &/or racing suppliers yielded nothing. The next issue was that the stainless-steel lock ring was too thin to seal at the tank. I ended up using the original steel lock ring and all was well. Nuthin like fun N"Games!
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I used that same double barb in a different setting, joining different sized air lines to run the pneumatic vibrators I used to unload sticky material from the bulk tankers I used to pull. I bought them in the plumbing supply section of Lowe's and Home Depot.
72 charger
Well-Known Member
On my 72 charger I couldn't tell if mine was any good or not and didn't have much luck at the time finding one so I ended up taking fuel hose and looping from one nipple back to the other for all 4 and bought a vented gas cap. I don't believe it has caused me any issues. Sometimes I wonder if I should run them out somewhere higher for vents as the only vent for the tank is through the cap then.
In your case, at least the Dodges had the filler neck projecting upwards through the rear quarter panel. On the Plymouth models, (like mine), the filler neck is much lower, behind the rear license plate.
Venting there would present more of a problem. Not to mention, fueling up these days with newer type of sliding nozzle, it's a pain in the ars to fill as it want's to puke out some gas when nearing the end of pumping & trying to "top it off"!
Venting there would present more of a problem. Not to mention, fueling up these days with newer type of sliding nozzle, it's a pain in the ars to fill as it want's to puke out some gas when nearing the end of pumping & trying to "top it off"!
I had the same issue on the aftermarket tank and ring on my 68. The ring was too thin, and I had to buy a factory ring off one of the guys here on the forum. It fit like a glove!
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Same here
BUT also the welded lock ring receptacle at my replacement tank was also too thin and gets bent easily. So It had to be gently locked.
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YY1
Well-Known Member
In your case, at least the Dodges had the filler neck projecting upwards through the rear quarter panel. On the Plymouth models, (like mine), the filler neck is much lower, behind the rear license plate.
Venting there would present more of a problem. Not to mention, fueling up these days with newer type of sliding nozzle, it's a pain in the ars to fill as it want's to puke out some gas when nearing the end of pumping & trying to "top it off"!
I agree about the lock ring issue. Save your OEM ring.
However, 71-74 Charger fuel fillers are in the same place as Plymouth B body cars...behind the license plate.
Damn, I knew I shouldn't have stopped drinking! I stand corrected sir, thank you! Then you must have the same filling issue that we have in NJ. Unless, you don't have that peskie sliding sleeve in Florida! 
I think the sliding sleeve is part of a vapor recovery system or to prevent vapor from venting to atmosphere, not sure!
When you cut your vapor separator open, what size was the brass ball roughly? I'm finally getting to mine and when I shake it I get a little rattle but I'm pretty sure it's a couple of rust flakes as they don't sound very solid. If the ball is atleast the size of a BB, I'm pretty confident mine is stuck. I cannot blow thru the inlet hose which leads me to also believe it's stuck, the outlet hoses only vent to each other. I've decided to put it in the ultrasonic cleaner for an hour or so and see if that will free it up. If you were to cut yours open again, where would be the ideal spot to access it? Hopefully the ultrasonic will free it up and I can get the debris out without needing to cut it open
Update:... 45 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner I can definitely hear the ball moving and it is no longer stuck. I'm able to blow thru the inlet hose and it exits thru the outlets. all is good!!! Now I just need to get the water and any leftover contaminants out
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YY1
Well-Known Member
Glad you got it.
It's a cylinder shape about the size of 2 BB's.
It also matters how you hold it.
Hold it like it's installed, and all 4 vents should blow out the single, but the single should not blow back through the vents
It's a cylinder shape about the size of 2 BB's.
It also matters how you hold it.
Hold it like it's installed, and all 4 vents should blow out the single, but the single should not blow back through the vents
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