Alignment specs.

[Eric F]

when I and the front end guy did the alignment on my 70 Road Runner at the dealership. I had manual steering still . We set the caster -1/2 degree and camber @ 1/4 positive. At that time I was running 225/70/15 front tires 255/60/15 rears.The specs are from the 1970 service manual for manual steering still.
I have converted to power steering. I’m doing lower control arm bushings and strut rod bushing. I’ve also changed my front tire size to 255/60/15 rear tire size 275/60/15. Power steering spec’s are caster 1/4 to 1 1/4 positive. Camber 1/4 to 3/4 positive. I’m thinking is if I can squeeze 1 1/2 plus on the caster (no sure if the stock upper control arms and eccentric’s have that much adjustment) keep the camber @ +1/4. ( modern Charger 8 plus degrees caster. -1.0 degrees camber) even with a firm feel box it’s pretty light feeling. Thoughts?

 

[493 Mike]

when I and the front end guy did the alignment on my 70 Road Runner at the dealership. I had manual steering still . We set the caster -1/2 degree and camber @ 1/4 positive. At that time I was running 225/70/15 front tires 255/60/15 rears.The specs are from the 1970 service manual for manual steering still.
I have converted to power steering. I’m doing lower control arm bushings and strut rod bushing. I’ve also changed my front tire size to 255/60/15 rear tire size 275/60/15. Power steering spec’s are caster 1/4 to 1 1/4 positive. Camber 1/4 to 3/4 positive. I’m thinking is if I can squeeze 1 1/2 plus on the caster (no sure if the stock upper control arms and eccentric’s have that much adjustment) keep the camber @ +1/4. ( modern Charger 8 plus degrees caster. -1.0 degrees camber) even with a firm feel box it’s pretty light feeling. Thoughts?

You may want to use the MOOG eccentric upper control arm bushings to gain more + caster.
Mike

 

[dvw]

If you already have it apart as Mike suggested put K 7103 Moog offsets in the upper arm front bushing location. after aligning hundreds of thesethey definately need them to get a decent caster reading of over 2 degrees.
Doug

 

[Eric F]

If you already have it apart as Mike suggested put K 7103 Moog offsets in the upper arm front bushing location. after aligning hundreds of thesethey definately need them to get a decent caster reading of over 2 degrees.
Doug

I was only going to do the lowers. The uppers were done 2 years ago the Prothane bushings.
I do have an extra set of upper control arms. Hum

 

[Kern Dog]

The factory numbers were for bias ply tires that were as skinny as a malnourished New York fashion model.
No new car uses alignment numbers like the old cars did because tires have improved immensely.
This chart was published in Mopar Action magazine and is a good starting point for a classic car with radial tires.

I actually have my Chargers aligned to over 6 degrees of positive caster, a full degree of negative camber and 1/8" toe IN.

 

[WileE]

I always do my cars at -0.5 camber, + 2-3 caster, 1/8 toe-in.

 

[Eric F]

The factory numbers were for bias ply tires that were as skinny as a malnourished New York fashion model.
No new car uses alignment numbers like the old cars did because tires have improved immensely.
This chart was published in Mopar Action magazine and is a good starting point for a classic car with radial tires.

View attachment 1784224

I actually have my Chargers aligned to over 6 degrees of positive caster, a full degree of negative camber and 1/8" toe IN.

View attachment 1784228

View attachment 1784230

The factory numbers were for bias ply tires that were as skinny as a malnourished New York fashion model.
No new car uses alignment numbers like the old cars did because tires have improved immensely.
This chart was published in Mopar Action magazine and is a good starting point for a classic car with radial tires.

View attachment 1784224

I actually have my Chargers aligned to over 6 degrees of positive caster, a full degree of negative camber and 1/8" toe IN.

View attachment 1784228

View attachment 1784230

Thanks for the updated specs