Anyone Interested?

[1STMP]

Hooking up the fuel tank.
I started by mounting the filler neck in the bed.
I didn't think it looked right, so we moved it to
the right side rear of the bedside. Took some
fancy work with the band saw and welder., but
were able to come up with something to hook
the hoses to.

 

[440Coronet500]

Thanks. 440
What are you going to drop in? I love that body style.

That 340 /904 that's next to it in the first photo. Currently building the engine then I'll tackle the 904 transmission! 440'

 

[super-bee_ski]

WOW
GREAT FABRICATION ABILITIES!!!!

 

[Virg464]

That is one awesome project! Looking forward to pics of the finished product and the happy builders

 

[1STMP]

For the trans dipstick, I got the longer hose
to get it away from the engine and up high
enough to clear the grille rods during filling.
The diagonal tube holds the filler funnel Lokar
provides. (negates an oily object rolling around
in the glovebox). I've since added a tab on the
bottom bolt to straighten out the hose.
I couldn't find a go pedal that would work
with the angled floor, so it's custom built
Using CAD and a working drawing. It
incorporates a bearing/lobe configuration.

 

[HawkRod]

Great fabrication skills and design going on here!

I'm sure it will be a killer truck when done!

 

[ckessel]

Thank you. On Bob's truck, I had to use the gas pedal from the donor due to it having a sensor assembly[ drive by wire]. I did some creative remodeling on it so it wouldn't be at a weird position for the foot. On the brake, had to graft in the hanging pedal unit with the booster. I used an empty r134 tank, same diameter as the booster, to determine the position for the booster/pedal hardware unit as I didn't want to just go plopping holes in the new firewall. I grafted on a piece of the F1 brake pedal to the new unit so all looked normal/old. As you and your son are finding out, this type of work is fun. One thing I've done for quite some time is look at sources/publications from a wide variety of industries. I've found that the solution you are looking for may not be shown in your favorite magazine but one from another variation may show it. Even going to an ag or marine expo can give you solutions. You can never have enough information to draw from. I'm an information hoarder. I'll copy something out of a publication that catches my interest and put it in my binder to use at a later time. If you ever go to any shows like Goodguys or an NSRA show, latch onto any catalogs that are being handed out.

 

[1STMP]

ckessel,
Impressive effort! Our talents are a passion.
Don't know about you, but anything with a
engine and wheels has always peaked my
curiosities.
I did a stint of five years during my career
that did not involve powertrains and the
sound of an engine coming to life. Made
the company millions as our team turned
out a record number of product. That
mattered not at layoff/downsizing times.
I've since retired, succumbing to injuries
from long ago. I broke my neck at 17.
Paralyzed left arm, shoulder, and limited
feeling in my left leg/foot. I walked around
the house once with a goathead stuck in
my foot and didn't know it. From that point
on, I've never run around barefoot. I hit a tree
at 70 when a throttle cable failure occured.
Spent 3 weeks in traction, 6 months in a body
cast, and had to learn to walk again.

 

[1STMP]

Rear differential;
Thought about creating a new thread for the rear
diff build, but decided to post it here as part
of the build process..
The diff is a 8-1/4 sure grip 3.55 AR, pulled
from a 1985 Diplomat police cruiser. I didn't
know at that time that the 8-1/4's were
weak when spun behind a big block. It didn't
cost me anything so I decided to try and
beef it up a little.
We cut the axles 3" per side (lessening the
moments from carrier to housing ends),
re-splined and heat treated. Replaced the
bearings with some heavy duties, and installed
a girdle. The support screws in the girdle have a
swivel foot that was removed due to them
sitting at an angle (from the lock tab bolts
to the bearing caps), and ground the ends round.
They now make direct contact with the
bearing caps..
The 4-link bars were fitted with rubber
bushings to lessen the shock. The diff is
centered with 2 pan hard bars (upper and
lower) bolted to the girdle also using rubber
bushings. Not too worried about losing an
axle, as the disc brakes will stop them
from vacating their proper place should a
C clip fail.

 

[Basket case]

Thank your Son for his Service and sacrifices. Awesome project!

 

[1STMP]

Got the coilovers installed on the Koni's.

 

[ckessel]

Your gas pedal is similar to what I did on Bob's truck. Old floor mount unit pressing down on new one. Did you use fuel rated hose on that filler system and not radiator?

 

[1STMP]

Yes, that's fuel hose. Came with the filler door
assembly.

 

[ckessel]

Good. Some are not aware you can't crossbreed.

 

[1STMP]

While browsing around the Summit Website
lookin' for some needed parts, out of curiosity
I checked on the price of the Koni's I bought
26 years ago. The shocks I needed were modeled
in cad with estimated wheel weights at all four
corners.
YIKES! $540.00 apiece. I've yet to dig out the
receipt, but I think I remember paying about
half of that at the time.
The springs are Eibach 750# front and 350# rear.
Since the truck will see most of it's life on the
street we shot for a suspension frequency of
1 Hz front/1.3 Hz rear. We're pretty close.

 

[1STMP]

The whoa components.
dual diaphragm booster 1985 chrysler
Le Baron
Dorman 1.031 bore M99294 MC
Ford Granada 11" single piston front rotors and
calipers.
Ford Pinto front spindles..
Rear:
1991-2004 Teraflex disc brake conversion kit,
with internal drum parking brake.
SSBC proportioning valve (rear circuit).
Brake pedal assembly; 1985 Dodge Diplomat
police cruiser.
We had a minor issue with the brake pedal
going to the floor after bleeding the system.
The front calipers have the bleeders below the
pistons, so we rotated the calipers to get the
bleeders to the highest point. Brakes now
functioning great with good pedal.

 

[barbee6043]

^^^^ I have a winter project to do 49 Dodge Wayfarer. It will need a real brake system, maybe your above receipe will work!!!!! Do you have any idea?
I have built many 60s 70s Mopars but never a 49!!!

 

[1STMP]

Barbee
DCM Classics has a front disc brake conversion
kit for older Dodge trucks. I'm not familiar with
the differences between car and truck spindles
and steering components. You may want to give
them a call.
https://dcmclassics.com/brake-parts...53.html?search_query=Disc+brake+kit&results=2
An available kit for the rear would depend on the
axle flange bolt pattern and/or differential type.
As far as the booster/MC is concerned, they are
pretty much must haves for a 4 disc system.
You'll need to change your brake pedal also
to get near to a 4:1 ratio.
This all depends of course, on how you want
to set the car up (R&P steering, etc...).
Post a pic of your car, I'd be curious as to what it
looks like!

 

[1STMP]

Got the brake pedal arm extended and moved
the pedal about 4" to the right. Now I have
access to the dimmer switch and I can use
my right foot for braking.
Before

After

 

[1STMP]

I installed some cowl lamps normally found on
a Dodge
I like that they add a little more detail.