Assembling my 440 Build... gasket woes!

[jenkins71]

Hi Guys,

I am finally assembling my 440 build. Everything went good with the rotating assembly, but unfortunately today I had some set backs putting on the oil pan and rear main!

First, the rear main. In my Victor Reinz gasket kit, they only provide you with the two semi-circle halves that seal the actual rear of the crankshaft.
They don't come with the little side "strips," and say to squirt RTV in the channels instead. I did that once, and the gap outside the channel (between the block and the seal retainer) was too big so that the RTV squeezed out the sides before it could reach the bottom of the channel. So I took the retianer off, cleaned it up, and started again.

This time I put a bead of RTV on either side of the channel, and pushed the retainer into position. I let the beads dry, then squirted my RTV down into the channel. It went okay. Do you think this will work fine? Anyone have experience with sealing the rear main using RTV instead of side-strips?

Or should I re-do it again using a kit with strips?

On to the oil pan. After I got everything cleaned up, and the windage tray too, I put down some RTV on the block, then a cork gasket, then the windage tray, then more RTV on the flange, then another cork gasket, then some RTV on the oil pan flange, and put the oil pan on. Took a long time to smear everythign around. Then I go to tigher the oil pain to 15 ft/lbs, and not only does the oil pan deform under the torque, but the gaskets squeeze out and then ONE OF THEM RIPS!!!
ARGHHHH., After all that!!!

So I went ahead and ordered one of these one pice windage tray/gasket deals from Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performa...xYoQMDQij-skdFiTcemYNTpYopSLa5TjvQaAkFU8P8HAQ

Anyone ever use one? I hope I bought a good product.

Anyway, thanks for any gasket-related advice!!! This is not my first time doing gaskets, but IS my first engine build!

 

[coloradodave]

The Jegs set-up is the hot ticket. Works great but put it on DRY. As far as your problem, when you use a gasket, you don't need RTV silicone. The gasket IS the seal. All you need is a little KW Coppercoat or Gascacinch (Edelbrock) to hold the gasket in place. You'll like the Jegs unit.

 

[Matrix2]

X2. This windage tray is a great product. The gasket is molded in and can be used over and over, with nothing else. Cheap, too!

 

[Car Nut]

X3 on Jegs windage tray.

 

[Meep-Meep]

On the rear main seal retainer you want to seal it to the sides (as you did) but also around the bolt holes.

I always watch the pan gasket when tightening and tighten until I see the gasket squeeze out a tiny bit. Also use the bolts that have the serrations under the head. Flanged head with serrations and I think you can get them from Summit or specialty fastener store.

 

[benno440]

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload...in_Seal_Installation_InstructionsJune2006.pdf

 

[jenkins71]

Sweet! Thanks guys, I can't wait to try the one-pice windage tray/gasket!

Do you think I would be better off if I took off the rear main seal, cleaned off the RTV seal-job and went with the side-strip style? Or will the RTV method work just as well?

Thank you!

 

[super-bee_ski]

Good info coloradodave!
I may order one for my current 440 build!

 

[benno440]

after trying every method the only one that worked for me was the hughes way in the link I gave you. I had done my rear main 6 times before it finally sealed up

 

[71airgrabberRR]

Thanks for the Hughes link. There's some good info there.

 

[dvw]

The block itself is flat. I apply RTV only at the timing cover gasket area and the rear main seal area. Glue the rest of the gasket with 3M weatherstrip to the block. 3 small 1/8" beads of RTV. One on the pan, one on each side of the windage tray. Done, it will not leak if you don't OVER TIGHTEN it. Nut driver only. When it's dry the bolts could fall out and it won't leak. As the rear main seal bridge. Fill the side grooves and the back 45 degree angle cuts with RTV (use a putty knife to smooth it between the crank flange and bridge. Add a small bead of anaerobic between the bridge and block. Mine don't leak a drop.
Doug

 

[jenkins71]

Cool, thanks a lot for the info guys. I'm sure lots of readers will find this stuff helpful.

I think I'm going to order a kit from Hughes with the side seals included and once again do it ALL over again. I just really don't want any leaks!

So with the Jeg's kit, I don't need ANY silicone whatsoever, not even at the gaps by the timing cover and rear main seal?

While we are on the subject, what sort of sealers, if any, do people use on the timing cover, intake valley pan gasket, metal shim head gaskets, water pump gaskets, etc?