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Best thermal and sound insulation for floor and headliner

I've used FatMat with good success. In the GTX I used just RattleTrap underneath mass backed carpet. In the '58 I did the entire cab including the doors with RattleTrap then added a layer of FatMat floor liner from the top of the firewall to the back of the cab. With the jute pad, carpet and padded door panels it went from riding in a soup can to almost new car quiet..

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What about using a combination of spray on Lizard Skin and a adhesive backed product together?
Fair question
First, I addressed this partially in my previous reply #9 above:
"Maybe stating the obvious, in generalities, insulation solutions for thermal and acoustic issues often have opposite attributes. Best solution is to use a seperate solution for each issue based on need. Everything else singly is just a compromise to some degree. Both solutions are tasked usually with reflecting the concern, or dampening the concern, and sometimes both. There are no silver bullets. Each case is different.
Case in point, reflective surfaces reflect infrared heat well. However, having it on the inside surface of an interior primarily only efficiently reflects heat back inside the car, but it sure looks pretty. Dark/Black surfaces emit heat rather well vs light/white colors. Acoustically, mass dampens sound well, light thin materials do not. Thick stiff, solid materials reflect sound better.
The best and most overlooked solution IMO, just reduce the source of the problem first."

So, Lizard skin adds beneficially here "mass" to the sheet metal attached, lowering its resonance Hz, and being slightly flexible also dampening the acoustic transfer, adding the adhesive backed material directly to it mainly only adds a different/wider frequency effected by it being a different material and additionally improve dampening as a result. All a good thing not considering the weight nor cost.
I only briefly mentioned in my previous comment that "thickness" is also always a plus when dealing with acoustic absorption, and thermal insulation, no matter what the material.
Also, there is another very effective acoustical solution/tactic, described as decoupled mass absorption, where a relatively flexible material is used to stand off an attached denser flexible material. The farther the standoff the better the results.
Try not to be mesmerized by the shiny objects here, it only RELECTS heat, and in this case only the heat generated inside the car, not outside, meaning its nearly worthless for the primary goals here.
 
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Being a lifelong resident of Fla, I can't authoritatively speak to condensation issues in this context.
I would think most would trap any moisture able to find it's way between any of the impervious materials, like a window accidently left open, spilled drink, AC condensate leak, etc,
 
I started with Hushmat Butyl/Foil but ran out 75% into the job. I didn't care for the Butyl/Foil as it was messy to work with...as you crawled around it would pierce the foil and get sticky butyl on unwanted surfaces...I switched over to "Sound Shield" which is an Asphalt based product. I much preferred the Sound Shield based on ease to work with and overall thickness. Just my 2 cents...

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I have been thinking about doing this to my cars for years due to how much I drive a couple of them. You guys are talking me into it more and more.
After hours of driving they do get extremely hot inside off of the exhaust over time on 90+ degree summer days especially.
 
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