Best thermal and sound insulation for floor and headliner

[j-c-c-62]

LOL ... Americans and the metric system !!!

View attachment 1766026

We still have our, 14", 15", 16", 17", 18" and so on tires though

 

[440 4 speed]

We also have 14” and so on rims. We still get 14,15,16 and up tires, the tread width is in mm.

 

[j-c-c-62]

We also have 14” and so on rims. We still get 14,15,16 and up tires, the tread width is in mm.

Odd, right?

 

[Black_Sheep]

I've used FatMat with good success. In the GTX I used just RattleTrap underneath mass backed carpet. In the '58 I did the entire cab including the doors with RattleTrap then added a layer of FatMat floor liner from the top of the firewall to the back of the cab. With the jute pad, carpet and padded door panels it went from riding in a soup can to almost new car quiet..

 

[Paul_G]

What about using a combination of spray on Lizard Skin and a adhesive backed product together?

 

[j-c-c-62]

What about using a combination of spray on Lizard Skin and a adhesive backed product together?

Fair question
First, I addressed this partially in my previous reply #9 above:
"Maybe stating the obvious, in generalities, insulation solutions for thermal and acoustic issues often have opposite attributes. Best solution is to use a seperate solution for each issue based on need. Everything else singly is just a compromise to some degree. Both solutions are tasked usually with reflecting the concern, or dampening the concern, and sometimes both. There are no silver bullets. Each case is different.
Case in point, reflective surfaces reflect infrared heat well. However, having it on the inside surface of an interior primarily only efficiently reflects heat back inside the car, but it sure looks pretty. Dark/Black surfaces emit heat rather well vs light/white colors. Acoustically, mass dampens sound well, light thin materials do not. Thick stiff, solid materials reflect sound better.
The best and most overlooked solution IMO, just reduce the source of the problem first."

So, Lizard skin adds beneficially here "mass" to the sheet metal attached, lowering its resonance Hz, and being slightly flexible also dampening the acoustic transfer, adding the adhesive backed material directly to it mainly only adds a different/wider frequency effected by it being a different material and additionally improve dampening as a result. All a good thing not considering the weight nor cost.
I only briefly mentioned in my previous comment that "thickness" is also always a plus when dealing with acoustic absorption, and thermal insulation, no matter what the material.
Also, there is another very effective acoustical solution/tactic, described as decoupled mass absorption, where a relatively flexible material is used to stand off an attached denser flexible material. The farther the standoff the better the results.
Try not to be mesmerized by the shiny objects here, it only RELECTS heat, and in this case only the heat generated inside the car, not outside, meaning its nearly worthless for the primary goals here.

 

[Davefinan]

Is there any concern of moisture being trapped between these various materials and the car body? Condensation etc.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Being a lifelong resident of Fla, I can't authoritatively speak to condensation issues in this context.
I would think most would trap any moisture able to find it's way between any of the impervious materials, like a window accidently left open, spilled drink, AC condensate leak, etc,

 

[72 Satellite]

I started with Hushmat Butyl/Foil but ran out 75% into the job. I didn't care for the Butyl/Foil as it was messy to work with...as you crawled around it would pierce the foil and get sticky butyl on unwanted surfaces...I switched over to "Sound Shield" which is an Asphalt based product. I much preferred the Sound Shield based on ease to work with and overall thickness. Just my 2 cents...

 

[Coelacanth]

I started with Hushmat Butyl/Foil but ran out 75% into the job.

How many square feet are enough to properly cover a typical 2-door B-body floor and doors (second-gen Charger)?

 

[6PKRTSE]

I have been thinking about doing this to my cars for years due to how much I drive a couple of them. You guys are talking me into it more and more.
After hours of driving they do get extremely hot inside off of the exhaust over time on 90+ degree summer days especially.

 

[j-c-c-62]

"The shiny side of aluminum foil does reflect a small amount of heat radiation; however, this effect is so minimal that it doesn’t affect how the food cooks, Thiel said. “The thermal conductivity of aluminum, which is its ability to transfer heat, is not a surface property—it’s a characteristic of the material itself. That means that both the shiny and dull sides of the foil have the same ability to transfer heat into your food.”
Should You Use the Shiny or Dull Side of Foil? Reynolds Settles the Debate

I might have misled some in an earlier comment I made here about shiny interior insulation, in that if you consider the passengers food, the alum foil does indeed conduct heat well, just to be clear.

 

[72 Satellite]

How many square feet are enough to properly cover a typical 2-door B-body floor and doors (second-gen Charger)?

I'm fairly ill equipped to give you a solid answer on this for a few reasons. First, I didn't do my doors. Secondly, I'd have to go back and see how many square feet of the hushmat I purchased, and how much Soundshield I purchased, and actually used. I do recall that the Hushmat I originally purchased said it was enough to do at least my floorboards, which of course was not the case. I imagine there are plenty of folks here who could give you an accurate assessment of what you need for your car.

Rob