Did something drastic yesterday...

[MustangAndy]

Motor got pulled and is in for a rebuild/upgrade. I'm not liking the looks of things thus far:

• Passenger side vavles are brown and have something on them
• Camshaft lobe edges are super rough / chipped
• Oil sludge caked on everthing
• Lifters were stuck in the block had to work on them to get them out
• Grey goo
• Freeze plug by Cylinder 7 looks like its been leaking for some time. It's all rusty crusty.

Poser shot:

Looks like a gasser no?

Number 4 cylinder didn't look so good. Also I've read in a lot of places that the 318 suffered from a poor compression ratio. One of the factors was that the piston didn't come up all the way at TDC. When I took this picture it was more or less at TDC and it looks like the piston is almost even with the deck. Was somebody else in here once before?

Passenger head:

Driver head:

Camshaft lobes are really rough:

Goo

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[mopar367]

Doesn't look like your piston comes up quite zero with the deck, so I would say they are stock pistons. I took apart a few motors before and it had that grey goo on the head bolts too. I think it is some kind of thread sealant.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

Photo of cylinder head looks like a head failure.If I remember right ,some 318 engine cylinder head had cracking problems ,,,( cast iron heads)....Still the 318 engine can give you great performance...

 

[MustangAndy]

Update:

I'll add more pics tomorrow but for now verbally speaking I've uncovered a few new things tonight:

-Score marks on several of the piston bearings with a nice copper color on them
-Cylinders 2 and 6 had split rings - they came out in multiple pieces
-Cylinder 8's lower compression ring is stuck and won't move
-Only removed main cap #3 but the bearing on that was scored as well
-Drove out the freeze plugs and was greeted with a light grey watery substance spitting out.


Poor descriptions I know but can any of the veterans tell me what I may be facing here?

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[shag766]

keep us posted. interesting, very interesting.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Everything you describe is consistent with and old engine that has been running for a long time.

I think the grey goo is an an accumulation of oil additives over the years.

It's not uncommon for the cam lobe edges to be rough on a high mileage engine. I have seen a lot of factory MoPar cams that look exactly like the one in your pic.

Coppered bearings is typical and causes can be lack of lube for a variety of reasons. Just plain old is one.

The broken ring could have happened during piston removal if there was a good size ridge in the block. Severe detonation can break ring lands, which can cause rings to break as well. Check the pistons. Otherwise it's pretty hard to break a ring under normal running conditions.

Fine score marks in the cylinders and piston skirts can be a result of overheating. If the score marks are up high where the rings are then it's possible the engine was running with broken rings.

Yes, an early 70's 318 is not big on compression but that is easily fixed with the right set of pistons. Balancing may be required if the pistons are changed to something other than stock replacement.

 

[Red63440]

When I have found that grey goo its come from condensation inside the engine, it mixes with the oil and actually breaks it down. When it breaks down the oil you lose the lubricity and you can end up with scored bearings and a good bit of sludge. Its sort of a one thing leads to another that leads to another and it continues to get worse. Like mentioned, you may have a crack or several in your head between cylinders. What did the oil look like in the pan???

 

[69Bee]

Everything looks fine and normal for a high milage engine needing rebuilding. Cam, pistons, rings, bearings, etc are all going to be scrapped anyway, so it doesn't matter. The copper on the bearings is more than likely just worn down the the copper layer in the tri-metal bearing. The valve deposits are normal, except for the 3 rich cylinders, but doesn't matter. You have good looking cores to start with, and should be doing the following:

1) Bore & Hone
2) Grind crank
3) Resize connecting rods
4) Line Hone (not always done, but not a bad idea to do it)
5) Square the block (or at least deck it)
6) Surface the heads
7) Install hard exhaust seats
8) Replace the valve guides
9) Valve job (3 angle)
10) Balancing (if non-standard pistons are used)

Replace the normal parts and include the following:
1) Valve springs
2) HV oil pump AND pickup (you will NEVER clean the old one out completely)
3) Intermediate shaft bushing (Pioneer PC-780)
4) Pushrods
5) Replace any valves, keepers, retainers, or rockers as necessary

Knock out the shallow 5/8" plugs (EPS-162) in the rocker shafts to clean them out properly.

Do it right the first time, and it will cost less...:headbang:

 

[arizona satellite]

I agree that you have nothing more than a typical high mileage engine. all looks pretty basic as far as condition goes, follow 69bee's recomendations and you will have a great 318 build!good luck

 

[67 coronet]

on top of what others have said,make sure you magniflux the heads and block to check for small cracks.all your pics and statments just seem like and old high mile eng that wasnt very well maintaned.

 

[MustangAndy]

Sloppy timing chain

 

[Satellite65]

Yep, looks like a typical old engine to me.

Looks kinda dry, hasn't run in a while, has it?

Not to worry, a complete rebuild will take care of all that stuff.

 

[Ron 73]

Andy didn't you say you had a very good explosion of some sort awhile back? You were trying at that time to get it running... This may be how your rings broke could have happened.. Maybe im getting this mixed up with another car but i think it was yours... Meep said the ring breaking could be from Severe detonation, could be what happened..

 

[QTR MILE]

I agree with some of the Guy's. Original with lot's of mile's and good use. Treat it to a nice rebuild and drop back in. Also hit the Tranny and Rear up with a rebuild IMO.