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DreRacing -68 charger build (need advice)

I went with the RMS suspension. mostly because I felt it was easier to order on their website with correct options. And shorter lead time.
I live in Norway so I haven't recieved it yet, but it's on it's way. Maybe get it next week.

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So here is the project right now. The 440 and K-member is out and sold.
Next thing to do is to decide which A/C system to go for? vintage air or classic air? This is an original A/C car so I will remove the original A/C intake, and the heater valve intake, and also the fan from the firewall and make a own intake with water and A/C. I need advice on this.

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The engine from a private dealer on facebook. Should be a -19. There is also a overdrive pulley from innovators west on it. Im not sure if this is so good as it have no dampener function? The injectors on the engine were also 1050cc injector dynamics. And the ECM was missing. So I have no clue how I should run the engine yes.
Is it enough to get an unlocked ECM and it will run? how about the gearbox? I have heard og sound german. But why cant it run with the orignal ECM?
The Oilpan also needs to be changed. I don't like the milodon steel pan. So I will go with the stef's, but haved found a place I can really buy it. Or holley may start to make some pans?

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Next up is also the tunnel. I will start doing some cutting this weekend. I wanted to se how much is needed. But I may go with the tunnel and gearbox mount from UScartool. The plan was to make it cheaper by myself, but I need to evaluate more.

SO:
what heater to choose?
What control system for engine/transmission
Oilpan?
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You can get a Strange S60 unit, that's what I have as well, it won't be bolt on when converting the rear to 4 link though. Another option is a currie unit or moser units
Strange S60 is fantastic, AND I was surprised to find some of my recent performance/strengthening related needs were less expensive sourced from Strange than ANY other manufacturer OR supplier!
HOWEVER
You MUST get in touch with QUICK PERFORMANCE and ask for Max. Tell him Steve from the B-Body forum referred you. The quality, PRICE, options available and their cost, turnaround time, build precision and OUTSTANDING CUSTOMER SERVICE, including after they have been paid in full, is some of the BEST I've EVER seen!
We have a QUICK PERFORMANCE high performance 9" rear axle assembly in the 65 421 Tripower GTO and it's GREAT.
 
Strange S60 is fantastic, AND I was surprised to find some of my recent performance/strengthening related needs were less expensive sourced from Strange than ANY other manufacturer OR supplier!
HOWEVER
You MUST get in touch with QUICK PERFORMANCE and ask for Max. Tell him Steve from the B-Body forum referred you. The quality, PRICE, options available and their cost, turnaround time, build precision and OUTSTANDING CUSTOMER SERVICE, including after they have been paid in full, is some of the BEST I've EVER seen!
We have a QUICK PERFORMANCE high performance 9" rear axle assembly in the 65 421 Tripower GTO and it's GREAT.
I built mine..I picked up the housing from strange...used a 4.10 30 spline trac lock from a dodge cummins pick up and the STRANGE 30 splines for a 8 3/4 rear end with green bearings...all together including pro assembly $ 1500.00 + or -

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I find time to post my progress here. This is only place I post all details.

I am in the middle of installing the chassis stiffening kit from USCT.
The minitubs, frame connectors and torqueboxes are done. I Think the fitment was quite good. The tunnel fitment is also good, but I would have constructed everything in one pice, not 2 or more pieces as this is. Probably I could just lift the floor without this kit, but I went the way of using it. But I think must modify the heigth for the gearshifter (oem hellcat) but have a plan for that.

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The frontsuspension is the RMS alterktion with the mustang2 spindles and 14" willwood brakes.
The spindles will be changed tho the CCP corvette type with 2" drop.
The 1st. reason is 1/2" more offset so more lip on the rim, 2nd the hub is too much offset so makes problems with the rim. 3rd is the 2" drop. I did not thing lowering springs gave me enough lowering, the geometri is also bad if lowered too much on the springs. 4th is that I can fit even bigger brakes 15" from wilwood to Corvette. 5th The bearing is a better solution (but does not matter so much)

In the rear I have recieved the RMS street-lynx, I am about to install the new spring mount from USCT.
The rear axle dana 60 is ordered from dr.diff with 3.23 ratio, as was the lowest I could find, and I really need it. Best If I could use the 2.76 I already have in my 8 3/4 but afraid it will break, I also like the look of a dana 60 better. It will come with 14" willwood brakes.

I got my tires for the rear, the lexani 345/25-20, really happy about them, they are on measurement.
The rims are about to be ordered from forgeline, I was first into budnik and billet specialities, but they did not provide 13" width as I need for the 345s, I could have shortened by myself, but going with a 3 split rim will be better, their design will also fit the car better. In the front I will go with 19" and something like 275/30-19 not decided yet.

Engine:
I found out that the engine had a blown (meltet) piston. The engine had a 9% overdrive an ID1200 fitted, but had not been tuned correctly. After some discussions with the seller, S&M performance, he did actually send me a set of forged pistons, rods, and the gaskets needed. I have to bore the block and do the work but I am happy with that.
I will run a megasquirt 3 or 2 for the engine, the throttle bodies will be controlled by own device made by a friend of me (tmbryhn engineering)
The headers will be changed to the ones from holley, stainless. The pipe nr1 on driver side will not will not fit, but thats a easy reweld.
I am also about to order a killerchiller to cool the intercoolers with help of the A/C

For the gearbox I have recieved the Sound German kit. Must make it communicate with the MS3

For the interior I will recive hellcat front and rear seats this week. The mid console is not decided, but maybe use the challenger one, or make something myself.

The doorpanels will be ordered from Fesler with power windows. They also have a midconsole, but think that is too expensive.

So that was about everything. I feel everything is planned and in order now
 
Time for new update, finally happening things here.
The car is completely welded. Engine bay ready for paint. I needed to lower the floor for the hellcat front seats to get them low enough, and make them go all the way back/forth. The USCT chassis stiffening and gearbox tunnel is complete.
The engine comes together with new rods and pistons.
The wheels arrived and they where totally awsome, spesially for this car. Just like I wanted them, but I used long time to get the measurements correct. And the correct width on the dana 60.
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DreRacing, just found this tread...and Wow! Great work /progress! Most of ur questions are probly answered, but am planning a similar build w my gtx and researched this a good bit. Holley now has about everything u need to hellcat motor AND 8HP swap a 68 b body. (Engine/8hp trans mounts, oil pan, efi fuel tank etc etc). They ADVERTISE no alterations to firewall/engine bay, and "minimal" modifications to tunnel (whatever that means. Lol). I see u already have the Gerst style ind. front suspension, but QA1 has a bolt in 4link w/2x adjustable coil overs (u can still use your new rear/axels, as kit wud need that stuff anyway.) That allows for (I believe) a 345 tire too btw. For controlling everything, as others mentioned, Mopar Performance/Direct Connection sells a computer/wire harness etc kit designed specifically to make that drivetrain work in any pre 1975 vehicle. Once again, great work thus far and can't wait to see the final product!
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DreRacing, just found this tread...and Wow! Great work /progress! Most of ur questions are probly answered, but am planning a similar build w my gtx and researched this a good bit. Holley now has about everything u need to hellcat motor AND 8HP swap a 68 b body. (Engine/8hp trans mounts, oil pan, efi fuel tank etc etc). They ADVERTISE no alterations to firewall/engine bay, and "minimal" modifications to tunnel (whatever that means. Lol). I see u already have the Gerst style ind. front suspension, but QA1 has a bolt in 4link w/2x adjustable coil overs (u can still use your new rear/axels, as kit wud need that stuff anyway.) That allows for (I believe) a 345 tire too btw. For controlling everything, as others mentioned, Mopar Performance/Direct Connection sells a computer/wire harness etc kit designed specifically to make that drivetrain work in any pre 1975 vehicle. Once again, great work thus far and can't wait to see the final product!View attachment 1581246
Oooops. Somehow I missed that u already handled rear suspension, ecu stuff. Etc. Lol
 
I see u already have the Gerst style ind. front suspension, but QA1 has a bolt in 4link w/2x adjustable coil overs (u can still use your new rear/axels, as kit wud need that stuff anyway.) That allows for (I believe) a 345 tire too btw.
I had installed a QA1 tubular K-member and front suspension system on my 70 Roadrunner, so I have some familiarity with their products. I'm saying that because I believe the rear suspension is also Carl Gerst's design, as he "merged" with QA1 a couple of years ago.
"Installation requires a small amount of cutting and welding on the frame and axle housing"
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Mopar Coil-Over Rear Suspension System - QA1 Tubular Suspension
 
FWIW, I used all QA1 components EXCEPT for the UCAs which I chose SPC (older style) to get maximum UCA adjustment capabilities.
The front suspension alignment I had done right before Cruisin the Coast in October of 2023 came out great, although I wasn't able to enjoy it very long.
Although I never made or had the time to try out the Caltracks split mono leaf springs, Assassin traction bars, and triple adjustable Viking EXtreme Street rear shocks at the dragstrip, I believe if I had to do the rear suspension again I would opt for either the RMS or GERST/QA1 multilink rear suspension. I didn't have any "problems" with my setup, I was convinced by the forum to change my original plan to use a multilink rear suspension upgrade, and while I appreciate the advice, as time went by I see there are at least some technical advantages to the multilink rear.
Carl was always very helpful when discussing his suspension components, and I value those who risk so much for the benefit of the MOPAR nation.
 
I had installed a QA1 tubular K-member and front suspension system on my 70 Roadrunner, so I have some familiarity with their products. I'm saying that because I believe the rear suspension is also Carl Gerst's design, as he "merged" with QA1 a couple of years ago.
"Installation requires a small amount of cutting and welding on the frame and axle housing"
View attachment 1581327
View attachment 1581328
Mopar Coil-Over Rear Suspension System - QA1 Tubular Suspension
Hi biomedtechguy,
Thank you for clarifying that! II've noticed that multiple manufacturers call thier independent coil over FRONT suspension kits "Gerst Style" but i wasnt aware the 4link rear was also.
 
Carl Gerst was always helpful when I spoke with him in person when he was first introducing his products for MOPAR, and he recently made a deal with QA1.
The Reilly Motorsports rear suspension product is also good.
I wish you the best in your endeavors.
 
Here comes an update. Its been happening alot but not so much to show.
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I am waiting for doorpanels from Fesler in Arizona, but he is struggeling to finish them. Says he needs a car for testing.
Anyone in Arizona who could help out? I will compensate

\\ tom andre
 
I finally recieved the doorpanels from Fesler, complete with power windows. They are not completely installed, and no pictures yet.
The car is driveable, the engine runs okay with MS3, but needs to be tuned (by me)
The zf8hp with sound german works great!
The power steering don't work at all, that bothers me a lot. New flaming river rack from RMS, and the reduction valve in the pump from RMS. No power at all. The pump is ok so I really don't know why. I will use an electric pump an connect to the rack and se if the rack really works.

I am this winter into also remove the ventilation window in the doors and go with 1 big window (you can buy kit)
Opinions? anyone here tried it?



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Cool project, :thumbsup:
lots of questions & people taking the time to help/answer

I'll be checking in from time to time...
 
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