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Driveline noise - bad torque converter?

euroz06

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Hi all,

68 charger/383/auto. On my recent drive I got some weird noise from the driveline, and I can't isolate it well. Most of the time it sounds like a very loud valve tapping (or like something was stuck to the driveshaft and as it spins it hits something - tapping increases as the speed increases). It is not coming from the engine. Sometimes though, i hear very loud metalic clunks, almost like the engine is having a catastrophic desintigration (but its not coming from the engine). It seems to go away when i put it back into park and start driving again. It seems to me it comes on when i ride over small bumps - like something shifts in the driveline and misaligns, and it makes the noises. Mind you, the car feels like its driving fine, shifts fine, engine works great.

For example yesterday, i drove out of the garage, all was fine. i came up to a traffic light and ran over the road markers, and the tapping came on (starting from slow speed, up to city speed limit). when I threw it in neutral, there is no noise and if i free rev, there is no noise. I threw at back to D, noise seems to have left. I went on the highway, no noise. On the way back I tried to give it WOT, all was ok, then stopped at the light and started driving again, then a different horrible clunking came on (like a metal belt connected to the engine pulley was hitting everything in the engine bay). I stopped, put it in park, popped the hood, everything is in place. I started driving, and the noise was gone, i drove on the road for good 10 min, then highway, came back from highway, stopped at the light, and the tapping came back. If i drive with the noise, it won't go away, unless i do some tranny shifting. I initially thought maybe its the dif, but i assume if the diff was at fault, the noise would be a lot more consistent. It feels like its coming from tranny area (driveshart or maybe torque converter). Transmission seems to shift as it always does.

Any thoughts on what it could be? I got under the car, and there is nothing visibly wrong, but it was a quick look. I wonder if maybe a tranny bolt came loose/fell out (i had it happen in one of my previous cars). I tried taking a vid, you can hear the tapping in the back, but the wind noise make it sound faint, it is not faint and is much louder.
 
Hi all,

68 charger/383/auto. On my recent drive I got some weird noise from the driveline, and I can't isolate it well. Most of the time it sounds like a very loud valve tapping (or like something was stuck to the driveshaft and as it spins it hits something - tapping increases as the speed increases). It is not coming from the engine. Sometimes though, i hear very loud metalic clunks, almost like the engine is having a catastrophic desintigration (but its not coming from the engine). It seems to go away when i put it back into park and start driving again. It seems to me it comes on when i ride over small bumps - like something shifts in the driveline and misaligns, and it makes the noises. Mind you, the car feels like its driving fine, shifts fine, engine works great.

For example yesterday, i drove out of the garage, all was fine. i came up to a traffic light and ran over the road markers, and the tapping came on (starting from slow speed, up to city speed limit). when I threw it in neutral, there is no noise and if i free rev, there is no noise. I threw at back to D, noise seems to have left. I went on the highway, no noise. On the way back I tried to give it WOT, all was ok, then stopped at the light and started driving again, then a different horrible clunking came on (like a metal belt connected to the engine pulley was hitting everything in the engine bay). I stopped, put it in park, popped the hood, everything is in place. I started driving, and the noise was gone, i drove on the road for good 10 min, then highway, came back from highway, stopped at the light, and the tapping came back. If i drive with the noise, it won't go away, unless i do some tranny shifting. I initially thought maybe its the dif, but i assume if the diff was at fault, the noise would be a lot more consistent. It feels like its coming from tranny area (driveshart or maybe torque converter). Transmission seems to shift as it always does.

Any thoughts on what it could be? I got under the car, and there is nothing visibly wrong, but it was a quick look. I wonder if maybe a tranny bolt came loose/fell out (i had it happen in one of my previous cars). I tried taking a vid, you can hear the tapping in the back, but the wind noise make it sound faint, it is not faint and is much louder.
It sounds like a cracked flex plate.
 
Try shifting from drive into reverse and back to see if you get a clunk. U-joint maybe?
Might have to get it up on jackstands and get under there to see.. sounds can travel quite a bit on a driveline.. good luck
so i def have a clunk when i shift, but its not a ujoint, its the diff. I had me a dif built by a local building (489/3.55 posi), but he fucked it up. It whines a bit, and does have the clunk. I need to either rebuild it again, or just buy a new rear diff, and I don't trust local builders anymore. But i've had that issue for years, so i don't think thats it.
 
I have a buddy with a shop, but he's no expert in old mopars. Is flex plate bolts easy to reach? is replacing flex plate a simple job, or requires taking everything apart and having special knowledge?
 
First check, flex plate bolts
Is there a way to check them/tighten without pulling the tranny?

I'm starting to look up info on it, and it does seem like this might be flex plate. But in some vids that im looking at, its making a noise when stationary, mine is only making noise when driving.

also, any recommendations on which flex plate i should get? I'm seeing multiple options. If i have to replace it, should i also replace the torque converter? Whats a good recommendation for an upgrade for street driving? my current one drives almost like stock (not sure which one is in there, but id assume its a stock one).
 
You can check the plate to converter bolts in the car but...you need to remove the shield that covers the lower portion of the bell housing which may require pulling the starter too. Could be wrong on the starter r&r. If you do have to remove it, disconnect the negative cable on the battery. There are 4 plate to converter bolts. 5/16 fine thread. If you need a new flex plate, that means trans removal.
 
You can check the plate to converter bolts in the car but...you need to remove the shield that covers the lower portion of the bell housing which may require pulling the starter too. Could be wrong on the starter r&r. If you do have to remove it, disconnect the negative cable on the battery. There are 4 plate to converter bolts. 5/16 fine thread. If you need a new flex plate, that means trans removal.
thank you. Could u give a full spec on the bolts please. I'd like to order a set ahead of time, in case they fell out or something.
 
The stock flex plate to converter bolts would be 5/16" NF thread. Some aftermarket converters used 7/16" NF thread, so check before ordering. Stock hemis also used the larger size.
 
I have never seen any missing bolts, but I have had to replace cracked flex plates. One was cracked at the crank and a couple others at the converter.
 
I had a similar issue with a 71 charger. Metallic buzzing that would come and go. Also checked the flex plate and the inspection cover a bunch of times.

Turned out to be the rear trans mount. Changed that, whole problem disappeared. I'd bet on that or a u joint.
 
Something else I thought of. If you need to replace the flex plate, since the back of the block will be accessible, replace the two freeze plugs on the block. Use correct Mopar size. 1 41/64". Just your luck after doing the plate, the plugs start to pee and you have to drop it all out again.
 
Something else I thought of. If you need to replace the flex plate, since the back of the block will be accessible, replace the two freeze plugs on the block. Use correct Mopar size. 1 41/64". Just your luck after doing the plate, the plugs start to pee and you have to drop it all out again.
On a tree- eighty-tree??
 
I know a-motors have them in the back. Not so on b's?
 
Look at the inside of the converter cover for any witness marks from being struck by the torque converter to flex plate bolt heads. Probably not your issue but it does happen with improper bolts or a bent cover plate.

With new u-joints and a rebuilt differential you should not have any clunking when going into gear or shifts. If it is clunking with newer u-joints, the backlash has probably opened up in the differential.
 
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