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Engine replacement ideas for the 2007 Ram 1500

Hey Greg you can get a viper V10 with trans auto or Manuel for $10-12k I say do that if you need the money I'll take a charger
 
A rebuilt 5.7 with Eagle heads and a 6.1 intake will do wonders!!
I was pondering our PM and remembered you mentioning this.
Here I am, almost 2 years after starting this thread. I'm pushing almost 395,000 miles now. Performance seems to be about the same. Oil consumption is too. I changed the plugs a few months back and for the first time, several on the 2468 bank had deposits. I had some steam coming from the exhaust pipes a few days ago....I thought I blew a head gasket. I know that the clock is ticking.
I have several options at my disposal, they all have pros and cons to them. They are in order from the most expensive to the least.
*New crate engine. $7500 + shipping and tax.
*Rebuilt engine. $4500 +.
*Take-out running low mile engine from a wrecking yard. $2200-2500.
*Used engine from a self service junkyard that I'd rebuild myself. $400 + machine work, pistons, cam and lifters, head bolts, gaskets, oil pump, etc.

A used, running take-out engine could be like rolling back the clock. I'm at 395,000 miles so a 100,000 mile engine should be about like mine was 295,000 miles ago. The downside? I wonder about the problems that some had with valve seats coming loose.
I've heard of those "Eagle" heads but don't know much about them. My priority is for this engine to be reliable and smog legal since I'm still here in California. If the 6.1 intake affects the emissions and throws a code, I'll fail inspection.
I should have made a move 2 years ago when I first started this thread. Now I'm involved in fixing the house so we can sell and move.
 
Eagle heads which became standard across the board started in 09 or 10 thereabouts. They flow soooo much over non Eagle heads. Engine Masters did a carb and efi shootout with 2 engines, 1 Eagle heads the other pre Eagle heads. The Eagle engine made 485hp or so. About 100 more than the non Eagle.
 
I caught a bit of info on those Eagle heads. A power increase would be great but I don't want to be stuck buying premium fuel from now on. Those heads
are supposed to raise compression almost a full point.
Now I run 87 when tooling around and step it up to 89 if I'm going to tow or haul something.
 
That’s only if you swap those to an earlier engine. If it’s on the engine (born with it) it just more power.
 
Mine is a 2007. From what I understand, the 2003-2008 engines are "Pre Eagle".
If this truck were a toy, I'd lean toward the higher compression and a bigger cam.
A video that I saw stated that the car engines had different HP and torque numbers as compared to the trucks. Slightly less HP but up to 15 lbs more torque. That is odd. I'd expect that to be the opposite. A truck needs torque to tow and haul.
One advantage of buying a take-out engine is that those guys don't need or want the old engine back. I'd be able to keep it and rebuild it for some other future project.
 
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The guys at Indy said the increase in flow over the previous cylinder head really is marginal when swapping. My thought for a daily would be stuck with what works and keep it turn key and simple... I was shocked when they told me that at the Indy swap for meet this past year. If you want more jump to a 6.4 BGE but you may need to update trans and pcm etc. ... Just a thought for ya.
 
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Today I went to a local "Recycler" and put $500 down on a 2007 5.7 from a Ram 1500. I heard it run. Quiet, no smoke, no death rattles but the MIL/Check Engine light was on. It was hit hard in the rear, the bed was crunched up. Otherwise, the truck looked weathered. Maybe mine is just cleaner than average for the year? This donor truck is supposed to have 83,000 miles but the odometer didn't light up.
Regardless....
I'll get it on Wednesday and pull the heads for a rebuild. Hopefully there won't be much of a ridge in the cylinders. I talked with my machinist....he has repaired a few of these 5.7 heads and suggests the "staking" of the intake seats. He says that if bore taper is under .004, he doesn't recommend to bore an engine. What about a hone to deglaze the cylinders and fresh rings and bearings?
FBBO member 5.7 Hemi suggests to reuse the stock cam if it looks okay but to replace the lifters. New oil pump and timing chain too, right?
I'm going to do a gas mileage check before and after the swap. I'm curious about what difference I'll see in power and mileage. 394,500 miles as of today so it is reasonable to think that power probably has dropped off a bit since it was new.
I want to have a backup plan though.
What if the block needs to be bored? New pistons now? Why not a longer stroke rotating assembly? There are numerous kits that can add 40-45 cubes with a corresponding 40-45 HP and torque.
This of course plays into what I've called The Snowball Effect.
If this donor engine checks out okay, maybe the original 5.7 can be my next project for Jigsaw....

JF 7.JPG


How about this: 5.7 block, Eagle heads, 6.1 Intake, stroked crank for 390 cubes, A-500 4 speed overdrive trans with 2.75 1st gear, 3.91 axle gear?
Modern reliability and power, great economy in a classic car. A solid 500 HP mill and 20 mpg.

1 hmmmm.jpeg
 
If this donor engine checks out okay, maybe the original 5.7 can be my next project for Jigsaw....

How about this: 5.7 block, Eagle heads, 6.1 Intake, stroked crank for 390 cubes, A-500 4 speed overdrive trans with 2.75 1st gear, 3.91 axle gear?
Modern reliability and power, great economy in a classic car. A solid 500 HP mill and 20 mpg.

View attachment 1457472


Now you're talkin'!
 
I would probably just pull off the pan and valve covers and see what it looks like.
What did the rest of the truck look like?
It gives you some idea of how it was maintained.
If it looks good inside I would likely just put it back together and stick it in the truck.
If it ain't broke...
 
I kind of lost your train of thought. Is the new too you scrap yard 5.7 going in your pickup as is. Did you give up on making it speedier?

And your current 5.7 in the pickup is getting rebuilt for the charger?

I run 2 5.7s. A 06 and a 09. The 09 is a 5.7 Eagle engine with 150k, in an automatic Challenger, newer engine with MDS and VVT. I also have 200,000 on the 06 in AWD Magnum. (Your almost 400K on your truck is impressive). Sometime in the magnum’s previous life it had a marshal reman engine. I had to rebuild it at 176K miles, because Marshal forgot to install the back cam bearing! I honed it and rering’d it, put a Compcams NSR stage 1 cam in it, MDS delete, Diablo tuner and a K&N cold air intake. Aftermarket exhaust, but still restrictive. It WAY more fun now! It has more power now than the 2009 Eagle engine that has better heads and vvt, I set it to shift a 6000 RPM. Idles smooth, fuel economy didn’t really change (18-19) in that heavy AWD car. 19 was the best I could ever do when it was stock with the MDS. With the tuner turning the MDS off there are no codes that come up or stay on. I think it would still pass emmisions, it runs better now and starts better with the stage 1 cam than it did with the stock cam. Lot’s of hemi’s came without MDS from the factory. Without a cam change Eagle head swap I think would be a waist of time.

After 100mph I think the lighter challenger will overtake the AWD heavier magnum, below 100 the magnum is quicker or too close to call. But when you put to gas pedal to the floor and watch the tach race to 6000 it sure puts a smile on your face! The magnum’s 5.7 originally has 340HP, the Eagle is 372. I am guessing the old 5.7 is just under 400 HP now. With Eagle heads I bet it would be another 20 HP higher with the NSR cam.

Most cam swaps are not rated to work with the MDS, the lifters won’t take the abuse. That Stage 1 like I have would probably work yet with the MDS, better off getting rid of it though. I always hated the MDS, both cars have aftermarket exhaust’s and have terrible droning noise when it kicks on!
 
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MegaCab’s don’t have an EGR or MDS, at least the 2007’s don’t. That might help someone looking for a non MDS replacement engine.
 
MegaCab’s don’t have an EGR or MDS, at least the 2007’s don’t. That might help someone looking for a non MDS replacement engine.
I am curious then if other application the same year did not have MDS, how would you know if it does or doesn’t on a emmision test. Would think the VIN would be the same between the two? All you have to do is shut the MDS off with a programmer.
 
The 1500 and 2500 series MegaCabs were so heavy that Dodge didn’t equip them with MDS.

IDK if a Quad Cab 2500 series has MDS.

The available programmers in 2007 were limited in their functions, especially tuning for boost. Diablo was responsible for grenading several 545RFE’s that were behind a boosted application. Basically at that time, it was advisable to not trust a tuner and a handheld tuner.

See post #42 for my application
 
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Do yourself a favor and replace you truck engine with a like year engine for an easy plug and play installation. It's you transportation, not a new found race truck. Save that for Jigsaw, now that's an idea that makes sense. I wouldn't trade my Coronet for anything, It's a blast to drive. If you don't believe me, why is RC heading that way, extreme drivability that can't be matched with an original drivetrain. I get a car can only be original once. Mine is never going to be original again. If I wanted an original, I would have bought one.
 
I have a 2012 hemi ram.

When the time comes and I need it.

It will get a new engine .
But it's only at 125k right now. So I think I have time.
 
My main plan with the truck IS just a stock replacement but I can't just hose off this donor engine and stuff it in knowing the potential troubles with the early 5.7 heads and the intake valve seat issue.
Sometimes I get tempted to make improvements and am drawn into the thought of increased power. In reality, if it needs to be bored oversize I will play it smart and just buy pistons, not a whole stroker crank and all of that comes with it.

A little back story:
In 2009 at around 59,000 miles, the truck developed a shudder that turned out to be defective MDS lifters on the 2468 side. They didn't fully detail the repair work but did say that they had to pull the head and a couple pistons to deglaze the cylinders. It wasn't made clear but They must have pulled both heads and staked the seats for this engine to run almost 400,000 miles, right?
 
Today I went to a local "Recycler" and put $500 down on a 2007 5.7 from a Ram 1500. I heard it run. Quiet, no smoke, no death rattles but the MIL/Check Engine light was on. It was hit hard in the rear, the bed was crunched up. Otherwise, the truck looked weathered. Maybe mine is just cleaner than average for the year? This donor truck is supposed to have 83,000 miles but the odometer didn't light up.
Regardless....
I'll get it on Wednesday and pull the heads for a rebuild. Hopefully there won't be much of a ridge in the cylinders. I talked with my machinist....he has repaired a few of these 5.7 heads and suggests the "staking" of the intake seats. He says that if bore taper is under .004, he doesn't recommend to bore an engine. What about a hone to deglaze the cylinders and fresh rings and bearings?
FBBO member 5.7 Hemi suggests to reuse the stock cam if it looks okay but to replace the lifters. New oil pump and timing chain too, right?
I'm going to do a gas mileage check before and after the swap. I'm curious about what difference I'll see in power and mileage. 394,500 miles as of today so it is reasonable to think that power probably has dropped off a bit since it was new.
I want to have a backup plan though.
What if the block needs to be bored? New pistons now? Why not a longer stroke rotating assembly? There are numerous kits that can add 40-45 cubes with a corresponding 40-45 HP and torque.
This of course plays into what I've called The Snowball Effect.
If this donor engine checks out okay, maybe the original 5.7 can be my next project for Jigsaw....

View attachment 1457471

How about this: 5.7 block, Eagle heads, 6.1 Intake, stroked crank for 390 cubes, A-500 4 speed overdrive trans with 2.75 1st gear, 3.91 axle gear?
Modern reliability and power, great economy in a classic car. A solid 500 HP mill and 20 mpg.

View attachment 1457472
I'm not sure on the yrs, but I had a cam chain tensioner go out on my fiancés 5.7 Charger, think it was a '12, apparently it was a common problem on some. Something to check.
 
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