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First Runs of 2014

67Satty

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10:51 PM
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Dec 28, 2008
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Location
Vista, CA
I drove my Satellite 50 miles or so out to Barona 1/8 mile, the weather was nice and cool, partly sunny in the mid-50s. I got six runs in, five of them in the 7.90s, got a couple 60 foot times in the high 1.60s, car didn't miss a beat all day, didn't have to do anything to it all day but check air pressure in the Hoosiers. I met a guy with a '70 Roadrunner running an RB with a Tunnel Ram and two 660s and RPM heads, so I was able to pick his brain for awhile. He was running 6.70s @ 101 mph all day.

Had some close grudge races with a guy with a 383 Nova, our cars were real close in times so it was fun. North County guys - he told me about a place on Sycamore off the 78 that sells Sunoco 100 octane unleaded. I might try some and try bumping up my timing some and see if the Satellite likes it or not. I could gotten in more runs but the weather was starting to threaten rain and I didn't want to get caught up in the mountains with my slicks. All in all, a good start to 2014 racing.
 
# jealous

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Do you know what that translates to in 1/4 mile time?
 
If Fontana ever really does open up again this spring, then I will be able to drive it up there and get an actual 1/4 mile time. Until then, 1/8 mile is good for working on my 60' foot times and shift points. I've whittled my 60 foots down from my first outing's 1.81 a couple years ago to 1.68s currently.

I think I'm ready to bail on my stock console shifter with the Shift-R-Gate mod to an aftermarket shifter.
 
sounds like you had fun... I'm a little envious...
 
67Satyam hoping to get mine up and hope fontana opens up this year too. Its a decent track ran there a bunch of time with my srt4 want to see what my 72 Sat does never took it down the track only street raced it when I was younger.
 
Man you guys are lucky.
Doug
 

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Thanks Budnicks. It usually doesn't have the primer around the wheel lips but I had to get kind of brutal with it rolling the quarter panel lips to fit the 8" wheels and haven't finished it off yet.
 
Thanks Budnicks. It usually doesn't have the primer around the wheel lips but I had to get kind of brutal with it rolling the quarter panel lips to fit the 8" wheels and haven't finished it off yet.

I noticed that too, wasn't going to say anything, I figured you were working on it, she looks good with the bigger wheels... looked like a decent turn out too, some cool cars... what did the yellow 70 RR run ?? {6.70's}, is that the car you talked about with the tunnel ram, 2 X 660's 4bbls & RPM heads ??... can you say any more about his combo, just curious... I like the FE nostalgia dragster & the altereds too, love nostalgia open car, I'm just curious what kind of 1/8 mile et they ran ??... that guy in the Lucas Oil Racing outfit, with the FE Dragster, looks really familiar too, I can't put a name with the face thou...
 
The guy with the yellow Roadrunner was running 6.76s @ 101 consistently all day long. I don't know that much about his combo other than he was running Hooker 1 and 7/8 headers (same as mine) - I was talking to him about their fitment with the angled plugs of the RPMs and they seemed to work fine for him. He also seemed to indicate he was running them pretty much OOTB - Edelbrock's valvejob and no porting but changed the springs to go with his roller cam - sorry didn't get the specs on the cam.

He said he built it to run 6.90s in the 1/8 and was pleasantly surprised to be running 6.70s.

The altereds and FE dragster were running in the high 5s @ 140+ or so.
 
pretty respectable for OOTB heads & no porting kind of limits you too about 600hp {2.06hp per cfm @ 291cfm OOTB = 599hp} in a heavy car that's pretty respectable... have fun, that's what it's all about, you sound like your improving almost every time you go, sneaking up on it...LOL...
 
My 60 foots are getting better but my ET reductions have kind of leveled off. I haven't been able to repeat or best my 7.86 for some reason. My best last weekend was a 7.92. I'd like to get it solidly in the mid-7s, even in the heat.

I think I'm about at the limit of cheap, quick, and easy improvements and will have to look at losing weight and/or making more power: fiberglass bumper, hood, porting or different heads (I'm leaning towards some RPMs as being the best for me right now even if I have to ding my headers to get spark plug clearance), maybe try a solid lifter cam.

I think the last little thing I think I can do is put an aftermarket shifter in there to replace the stock console shifter.
 
My 60 foots are getting better but my ET reductions have kind of leveled off. I haven't been able to repeat or best my 7.86 for some reason. My best last weekend was a 7.92. I'd like to get it solidly in the mid-7s, even in the heat.

I think I'm about at the limit of cheap, quick, and easy improvements and will have to look at losing weight and/or making more power: fiberglass bumper, hood, porting or different heads (I'm leaning towards some RPMs as being the best for me right now even if I have to ding my headers to get spark plug clearance), maybe try a solid lifter cam.

I think the last little thing I think I can do is put an aftermarket shifter in there to replace the stock console shifter.
the RPM heads are worth about 50-70hp done right {something like 70 lbs too}, over stock iron replacements & more if ported correctly, used with the right camshaft... the weight off the nose is a good idea too, less weight, better reaction times, better shock response, better weight transfer, better/quicker cooling & braking too, less wear & tear when weight is reduced... It's a win-win removing weight from the front of the car... move the battery to the trunk also {get a lightweight racing battery if fund allow}, if you haven't already... weight saving anywhere is good for the power to weight ratio, as long as you don't compromise structure & strength, you still will have the same HP with a lighter car, just means more power to weight ratio... hood, bumpers & brackets, doors, trunk lid, side glass to Lexan, front fenders, rims, driveshaft, replace anything cast iron or steel with aluminum or fiberglass, like heads, acc. brackets, water pump housing & radiator, nut's & bolts even, body panels etc... even stuff like titanium or aluminum bolts here & there, can make a difference you can do a few at a time, just be aware of when you change parts, not to use heavy crap if it's not needed for strength, but you don't have to go crazy, some of the smaller nuts, bolts & washers are relatively cheap, to go to aluminum or titanium components... also remove carpeting, insulation, sound deadening, undercoating, stock interior, back seat, crap in the trunk etc.... replace using lighter materials, light racing seats aluminum panels etc. or just remove altogether, when going to the track... spend some time with a few various sized hole saws or drill bits, in areas that are NOT structural or in plain site, that could be lightened... there's always places you can go lighter... good luck, have fun
 
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