a good roller or solid lifter camshaft with 0.550"+ lift
300+ cfm of flow
a well tuned carb/intake {gasket matched at a minimum & ported & flow tested is better} or Fuel Injection,
properly sized exhaust/header length & tubing size
a much hotter ignition system & ultra-low ohm resistance wires are far better than stock to burn all the extra fuel etc.
forced air induction will also help some
an electric water-pump & an electric fan will help some also
lightweight alum pulley's
a good quality SFI rated harmonic damper
light weight forged {pref.} pistons a min of 10:1 compression, low tension rings
crank tuned down to smallest diameter on the counter weights as you can get away with
something like 7" radius & knife ground & drilled too {makes for a lighter rotating mass}
quality rods & main bearings
good aftermarket rods & rod bolts, an H-Beam style is best,
longer if you can get away with it {better rod ratios}
4.15" stroker or 3.95" offset ground stroker crankshaft even will all help allot
even a 3.75" {413-426-440 crank} in a 400/451ci or 383/431ci combo can & will do it too,
with the properly matched/tuned parts...
I have a 383/479ci-6bbl 4.290" bore 4.15" stroke that make right at 590hp/600ftlbs-tq at 6200rpm
that's well it did before the refresh anyway, probably more now {extremely docile/street-able too},
only has a 0.520in/0.540ex hydr. roller it's an old Crane custom ground camshaft now,
small base circle 107*in ATDC & 117*ex BTDC @ 276*/284* duration
with 1.6:1 Crane Super Gold roller rockers {0.554in/0.576ex}, it doesn't have to be over-cammed,
3/8" Smith Bros. cup & ball custom longer hardened push-rods,
Crane retrofit hydraulic roller lifters, bushed lifter bores {it was an old block with lots of miles}
{SOLID ROLLER is better yet}
Zero deck {appr. 10.8:1 comp.} Diamond Pistons {they were Venolia's orig},
4.15" Callie Crank 7" diam. knife ground drilled/lightened/ballance,
Platinum series 6.76" Rod
440Source lower end components, billet caps & girdle
84cc Eddys Ported closed chamber now flow 320cfm @ 0.600",
springs & retainers/locks to match my camshaft & style of driving
Mopar CEI Chrome Ignition & MP adj. CEI distributor & Taylor 40 ohm per/ft wires
custom made 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" step headers with Flowmaster Scavenger 4-2-1 & 3" collectors,
Milodon HV oil pump & 7" 7qt Pan,
I believe that my biggest choke point is my 6bbl, but it's tuned relatively well,
but I was willing to sacrifice some power for the 6bbl look & drivability of being on a 2bbl until I stomp on it...
this is an old build & just a street car too...
Blah Blah Blah, there are a ton of ways to get there...
there's probably 150 here in the Racers Hangout section alone
there's more than one way to skin a cat,
the cylinder heads are a really extremely important part of making,
any real HP, the short block is just a air pump, you can make near 500hp with 8:1 comp. 440 N/A,
if it's got the right matched parts
tuning, quality of machine work, round cylinders, attention to detail {blueprinting}
ring & head seal & all the little stuff, that makes a world of a difference...
not just throwing a combo together,
because some guy on the internet said so...
the person building your engine can make all the difference in the world,
if they pay attention to details & do all the right things,
if you don't know how to yourself {especially when it comes to the heads}...
I've built many engines, that make far more HP/TQ too...
"Fill your Library, Before you fill your Garage", to all that will listen...
I'd highly suggest to buy a few books on the subject at hand &
get the knowledge 1st, before you spend you hard earned $$$...
Good luck