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Golden Goddess heart surgery

That’s what I’m thinking, it’s working, but not working enough. The pedal moves when you start it, I know I have enough vacuum from the engine. Maybe the booster isn’t boosting enough, maybe it’s not at all. I’ll try plugging the line tomorrow :thumbsup:
 
A guy on one of these forums once gave me some good advice when I was dealing with a soft brake pedal issue. He suggested to disconnect the lines at the master cylinder and plug them, then see how the pedal felt. If it still felt soft, the master cylinder was to blame. If the feel improved, there was still air in the system. It is comparative stuff like this that costs nothing but can really help pinpoint the problem.
 
Alrighty, another beautiful day. I disconnected the vacuum like to the booster, and the brakes acted the same.
I have messed with the proportioning valve, and did a test with power and non assist. It’s the same

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@MarPar yep, but all things seem to point to the booster.

I have a pirate Jack on it now, is anyone’s better than pirate Jack, or all they all the same
 
KD ended up going to a dual bendix I believe, and that's what I'm doing for a guy after he had some shitty generic summit gm type thing.
 
That’s what pirate jacks is, and I think there’s a few companies that make a similar one, or it’s probably all the same just different name :rofl:
 
If you don't have one you could stop by your local parts store and borrow/rent a vacuum guage. Hook it up to the booster and see if it holds vacuum.
 
Those gold Chinese boosters are all the same and all crap. Mine failed after a couple of years.
Find a local brake shop (if they still exist over there) and get them to build you a booster using something OEM.
Here in Australia a local shop did just that, and used my old crap booster as a guide so all the bolt holes lined up. Used a booster from a late model Ford or Holden, made by PBR. Wasn't even expensive.
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I’m not sure if it would bolt up directly, but jeep wrangler TJs are purported to all have dual diaphragm boosters on them. They are small diameter and take the later 2 bolt master cyl. I would think they should be pretty easy to come by, maybe even factree Mopar. My TJ is 800 miles away, or I’d look at the firewall mounting for you. It should be easy to find the specs though, tons of Jeep info out there
Travis..
 
Sounds like a booster problem to me, but would check to make sure check valve for booster working properly. Not sure if that was spoken about.
 
@70 GTX-R , nobody has mentioned the check valve. It’s a $30 part, which is significantly cheaper than a booster, and significantly easier to change than a booster. Maybe I should buy one of those first and see what that does
 
Check valve is a dirt simple device that’s easy to test. Remove it and suck through it. From engine side it should be free, and from booster side it should be closed. The only way it would affect brake operation with a running engine is if it were stuck closed. It’s really only there to give you one or two brake applications once the engine isn’t running.
Travis..
 
The valve will hold vacuum when engine is in a low vacuum state allowing you to have good brakes during that time. Stuck open or stuck closed would both be bad. Not saying that this is the fault. Figured it’s still something that should be checked. Must consider all options and rule out.
 
While I wait for the money tree to ripen I’m going to piddle with some other issues. The alternator is making terrible noises, so I purchased another one, and the plan is to try to replace the bearing in the other one and use it as a spare

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Just a FYI for you, Cardone (Advanded Auto parts up here, O'Reilly there, double check) rebuilds boosters at their shop in Texas. Cardone admin here outside Philly, I called them about getting booster & 3-spd wiper motor rebuilt, NOT CHEAP THOUGH
 
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