HEI like I'm 5

[BeatersRus]

First day here and you're pissing on the guy trying to help you and not the guy insulting your reading ability.. ... read the posts in order and maybe it'll make sense to you!

ikr i totally didnt see that 1 coming...regardless,
i still pmed him and told him how he could jump the dis and fire the car up to at least check the dis. and timing setup.
silly me.......lol

 

[eldubb440]

ikr i totally didnt see that 1 coming...regardless,
i still pmed him and told him how he could jump the dis and fire the car up to at least check the dis. and timing setup.
silly me.......lol

next you'll be labeled a stalker

and who knew the dick of the day post would end up being appropriate..... strange times

 

[NoCar2023]

Didn't work.. :/

What happened? do you not have spark?
Can you post pictures of the connection I recommended.
Also, can you post up the steps necessary to install the distributor.
Thanks.

 

[NoCar2023]

Yes, GM HEI is a good system.
Thanks.

 

[3rdgenCharger]

What happened? do you not have spark?
Can you post pictures of the connection I recommended.
Also, can you post up the steps necessary to install the distributor.
Thanks.

I marked where the old dizzy's rotor was pointing as a guide, as well as the base of the dizzy to keep it close, i will be retiming it though.
Removed the old dizzy, stabbed the new, got all the marks lined up and rotor facing the same direction.

I've got the correct pigtail for the HEI, wired red wire from pigtail (battery side) to the blue wire from the ballast resistor, test light shows it's hot when ignition is on (testing on the new connector)

Got no spark.. Rewired it exactly the same with the + from the now removed coil, which shows to have power into the party.
So at this point ive got + coil wire and blue (run wire?) From ballast resistor into the new pigtail that plugs into the battery side of the dizzy.
No spark.. I'm limited to a test light right now..
My multimeter is at work in somebody else's tool (never lend tools, I'll never learn my lesson) box that is locked this weekend.

I'm wondering if the + coil wire is set up to reduce to 6 volts for the old set up?

I'll get pictures of how I hooked it up momentarily, playing mr.mom this morning.


Thanks for the help so far guys!
I apologize for being a prick to BeatersRus.. I was skimming the page real quick and misunderstood what he had said.. 100% my fault, I should have been paying better attention.

 

[Carcinogen]

I used Mopar electronic distributor and wired in HEI module.

Two things I had problems with.

I did not have 12 volts after going through car's old wiring (no ballast resistor). Had enough voltage to start and rev in neutral, but under load engine would backfire thru carb. Used relay to feed coil direct from Battery.

Had to install separate switch for the starting motor as the ignition switch cuts power to separate circuit that used to by-pass ballast resistor. I turn key on then use push button switch to start motor.

I did cause a problem though-Between replacing the stock Mopar starter with a mini, and going HEI; it does not sound like an Old Mopar trying to start. Slight pump of gas wait a second and it fires right up, Idles better and throttle response is improved.

 

[NoCar2023]

Okay, you do not want the ballast connected.
Connect the blue wire before the ballast.
The blue wire should burn your (incandescent) test lamp bright.
If you have the correct voltage to the BATT terminal of the dist (the distributor spins) and still no spark.......the issue is internal to the dist.

 

[Carcinogen]

I had voltage problems using the stock wiring, was not enough voltage even with no ballast resistor, the HEI current draw is probably more stock wiring can handle. Wiring in a relay ensured Batt voltage to coil.

No ballast needed for HEI, you want full 12 volts.

Also good to remove old components and wiring connections and tape them up in case they are shorting something out.

I have also used relays for the headlight and re-wired the ammeter to reduce voltage loss. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/ammeter-bypass.164703/

 

[beanhead]

Also! You need to connect your 'start' wire (the brown that gets 12v when cranking) to the 'run' wire when you take them off the ballast resistor. Otherwise you will have voltage in run, but not when key's in the cranking position..or am I missing something(entirely possible!)

 

[Bobby Sixkiller]

Try running a wire straight from the positive side of the battery to the distributor. If you have no fire it’s the coil or module. If you are still working on

 

[RJRENTON]

Gentlemen,
I'm somewhat confused as to why the change to GMs HEI ignition. Just to be different? A conversation starter at car cruises? Why not Fords DuraSpark IV system? And the ever popular favorite MSD. Hopefully, your decision is not based on your next door's neighnor's brother-in-law's cousin's best buddy whose opinion on just about everything is reverently considered gospel (and probably drives Toyota Camry).
Seriously, once the spark plug ignites the fuel charge, its no longer needed until the next power stroke. If the fuel charge cannot be ignited, the problem may be due to stratification of the mixture, which may relate a lean condition, too much valve overlap from the cam, and lean mixtures burn slow requiring more spark advance, several other factors.
My question is out of quriosity not critism. My RS23V0A***** GTX still uses the origional Prestolite dual point distributor and it looks like it belongs, unlike the pix of the HEI which looks like a sore thumb. I like to retain the original appearance yet l can still buzz the engine up to 6000RPM, without miss or stumble at idle. My opinion of course.
Bob Renton

 

[Frank Mopar]

Gentlemen,
I'm somewhat confused as to why the change to GMs HEI ignition. Just to be different? A conversation starter at car cruises? Why not Fords DuraSpark IV system? And the ever popular favorite MSD. Hopefully, your decision is not based on your next door's neighnor's brother-in-law's cousin's best buddy whose opinion on just about everything is reverently considered gospel (and probably drives Toyota Camry).
Seriously, once the spark plug ignites the fuel charge, its no longer needed until the next power stroke. If the fuel charge cannot be ignited, the problem may be due to stratification of the mixture, which may relate a lean condition, too much valve overlap from the cam, and lean mixtures burn slow requiring more spark advance, several other factors.
My question is out of quriosity not critism. My RS23V0A***** GTX still uses the origional Prestolite dual point distributor and it looks like it belongs, unlike the pix of the HEI which looks like a sore thumb. I like to retain the original appearance yet l can still buzz the engine up to 6000RPM, without miss or stumble at idle. My opinion of course.
Bob Renton

Nobody is switching to be different. They are switching because its a better system.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

http://www.designed2drive.com/

 

[RJRENTON]

Frank,
Better than......?? Points?....Mopar's orange box...?? But why GMs HEI? If your looking for higher spark voltages, the secret is the coil not in the switching mechanism. Also, the HEI has its short coming also. Just curious.
Bob Renton

 

[Frank Mopar]

I switched my car over. Im a believer. You can play the anti GM all you want but in the end its a better ignition system. Read the links.

 

[Bobby Sixkiller]

I’m die hard mopar all the way. I bleed pentastar blue. But I used a gm module, not a complete distributor on my electronic ignition. Not that it’s better but simple wiring, does away with the ballast so one less part to go wrong and I’ve been to part stores that didn’t stock Chrysler ignition box or the ballast. They always keep the gm module. I used an e type coil and keep a spare in the trunk. Keep a spare module in the glove box. One more benefit is if I burnt the fusible link for some reason it’s easy to run a jumper wire straight to the module/coil on the side of the road. I do think points are just as simple. Even less wires but they require maintenance more often. Also in wet weather they drown out pretty easily. Hei might give a better spark. Idk. It’s really a simple setup and it works. I bought a hei distributor for grins but haven’t used it yet. They are ugly though. I’ve seen the module hid inside of an old Chrysler box but that makes it harder to replace and I would think it keeps heat in. I’ve seen kits to mount on the distributor but looks like it would be harder to replace there too. Basically it works. It’s easy to find parts. And if mounted on the firewall it’s easy to replace.

 

[Bobby Sixkiller]

I’ve converted fords too. Not mine. I don’t have a single fomoco. Unless you count the plord. But that’s a different story.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Can you spot my HEI? Even the ballast resistor is still there(the resistor removed) HEI but not “coil in the cap”. With the air cleaner on its basically invisible. People that look under the hood have no clue.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Nice!

 

[RJRENTON]

Gentlemen,
Checking the links does not convince me into changing. The GM HEI module's Achilles heel is heat unless the module can be adequately cooled, it will fail. Later, improvements utilized IGBT (Insulated gate bi-polar transistor) current switching circuitry, reducing the current the module must handle. The GM coil design used higher primary resistance for lower current draw and more secondary windings for higher secondary plug voltage. The spark plugs then used a significantly larger gap to give the leaner fuel charge the best chance of being ignited. This was all due to catalytic converter's inability to handle unburned fuel.
My origional question was one of curiosity not ctitism and what was the underlying reason for the change.
Bob Renton

 

[Frank Mopar]

The HEI should be mounted on a heat sink, the same reason a ballast resistor is mounted in ceramics. By virtue of what they do they get hot.