Help 68 charger 383 auto dies when put into gear

[Don Frelier]

Set timing with vacuum advance disconnected.
Are you sure the balancer TDC mark is correct?
Try advancing it like another 10 degrees and see if it's any better. Even just as a test.
If it doesn't want to crank hot or pings driving it then you've gone too far advanced.

 

[Wietse]

I think there is nothing wrong with the ignition, at idle in P in runs, changing to D does not change anything on ignition side.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I think there is nothing wrong with the ignition, at idle in P in runs, changing to D does not change anything on ignition side.

What it changes is the engine RPM... And when the RPM's change potentially the timing changes....

 

[Wietse]

And when the RPM's change potentially the timing changes

I know what you mean, but i think most distributor mechanical advances do not start before 900 rpm.
Maybe the old style distributors do, but i never used them.
Would you think he has any mechanical advance already at 750 rpm?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I know what you mean, but i think most distributor mechanical advances do not start before 900 rpm.
Maybe the old style distributors do, but i never used them.
Would you think he has any mechanical advance already at 750 rpm?

If it's a MP Electronic Ignition yes...

 

[Wicked31]

If it's a MP Electronic Ignition yes...

It is some sort of generic mp electronic ignition.

 

[Wietse]

Ok, was there any reason for that to start so early?
Would not expect the engine needs more advance when coming off idle.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Ok, was there any reason for that to start so early?
Would not expect the engine needs more advance when coming off idle.

Reason? Need? No... But thats how the 90's & 2000+ MP distributors are set up...

 

[turbine68rt]

Ok, was there any reason for that to start so early?
Would not expect the engine needs more advance when coming off idle.

Shouldn't take long at all to pull the distributor and determine how many degrees of mechanical advance is built in by looking at the stamping on the stop plate, doubling that, deduct that number from 34-36 and there's your initial setting.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Shouldn't take long at all to pull the distributor and determine how many degrees of mechanical advance is built in by looking at the stamping on the stop plate, doubling that, deduct that number from 34-36 and there's your initial setting.

Or just put a timing light on it, bring the RPM's up till the timing stops advancing & set that at 36 degrees... But that does absolutely nothing about a poorly set up timing curve...

 

[Wicked31]

Update: Installed new msd coil no change. Adjusted timing to 18* no change. I did notice that when the motor was cold it didn’t die but once it warmed up it would start to die again. Ordered a new msd distributor so I can ditch the Chinese knock off mp electronic ignition

 

[Wietse]

You advanced the timing with 6*, did the rpm not go up?
What happens if you let it idle in Neutral instead of Park?

When the engine is still cold i assume that it is that cold that the choke is still active...extra fuel....

 

[Wicked31]

New distributor and all is good now. I would have never guessed distributor.

 

[Don Frelier]

Did the shaft spin tight?
Dry bushing, I had that happen once.
Wouldn't idle. Sorry should have suggested that earlier.

 

[turbine68rt]

When spun manually was the reluctor slightly eccentric? Had that happen on my brother's car with similar stalling issue. Spun it until the closest tip was at the pickup and set the proper gap at that point. Hasn't stalled in 10 years.

 

[Wicked31]

Did the shaft spin tight?
Dry bushing, I had that happen once.
Wouldn't idle. Sorry should have suggested that earlier.

When spun manually was the reluctor slightly eccentric? Had that happen on my brother's car with similar stalling issue. Spun it until the closest tip was at the pickup and set the proper gap at that point. Hasn't stalled in 10 years.

Didn’t check the old distributor. I was so annoyed with that thing I just tossed it in the corner. I had planned on changing all the cheap ignition over to msd eventually.

 

[Moms68]

I would think that the car will now run 10x with the correct advance curve. Glad it’s fixed.

 

[Gus chiggins]

I’m out of ideas so I’m turning to the knowledge of this forum for help.
68 charger 383 auto idling at 850 drops to 500-600 rpms eventually dies if no throttle is added. Installed a 750 street demon since old carter was leaking from everywhere. Checked for vacuum leaksby spray contact cleaner around intake/carb disconnected all vacuum lines and plugged ports doesn’t seem to have any leaks. Adjusted carb with vacuum gauge best I could get was 12-15. Timing set at 12*. Switched to a Holley dp I had laying around same issue. Not sure if there’s an electrical issue that could be causing it, wore out camshaft, transmission/ torque converter issues? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Saw something about distributor cap phasing. I just happened to see a thing about this on uncle tony's garage. It sounded like he had a similar problem. The vacuum advance has a tang on it that was slightly bent preventing the D cap from being in the right position on the distributor, yeah , I know UTG, but once in awhile he's ok.

 

[junkpile]

ANY SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM????? I have the same issue low rpm/stalling in gear, desperate to find a solution.