Orig69
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Inside the ARP box there should be a piece of paper with the torque specification.
Help me tear down and inspect my 440..
- Thread starter Canadian1968
- Start date
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
Back at it for a bit tonight . I decided to go ahead and drop the driver side cylinder head on tonight. Lubed up all the arp bolts and dropped then in. It quickly became clear that I'm not going to be able to torque down the bolts correctly with the header I place. Unlike the passenger side i cant pull it back out of the way. I haven't decided which way I'm going to try to attack the problem. I think I may just try unbolting the motor mount and tilting the motor slightly. This alone may give me the clearance I need to get at the bolts correctly . Or if not enough room to drop the header out past the starter. Or I may have to unbolt the starter as we'll drop the header right out.
Not interested in that battle tonight I went over to the passenger side and measured the lifter pre load. The process I used is outlined in this video
My measurements show .110" of preload. That seems quite high from what I have read? I should be some where in thr .040- .060 range. I mean the motor was running fine before the tear down. What's everyone opinion ?
Not interested in that battle tonight I went over to the passenger side and measured the lifter pre load. The process I used is outlined in this video
My measurements show .110" of preload. That seems quite high from what I have read? I should be some where in thr .040- .060 range. I mean the motor was running fine before the tear down. What's everyone opinion ?
gtxrt
Well-Known Member
there fine the stock type lifter had .200 of travel.
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
Wow I not be sacrificing a fair amount of lift having the push rod that deep into the lifter
gtxrt
Well-Known Member
your not sacrificing any lift.
Opinions? Well you race it, so the less amount of room for pump up the better. Factory gave lots of room to cover sloppy machining tolerances and long term grandpa miles wear.
Be sure you're measuring properly
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
So what is the difference if I were have let say .050 preload vs my current .110 .
The lifter makes up for the difference no matter what ?
I am going check a few others and compare
gtxrt
Well-Known Member
if your going to rev over 5800 rpms you should be running a solid lifter cam anyways. how long are your push rods ? 9.315 or 9.295.
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
They are factory push rods to the motor, I will check when I get home . I was assuming 9.315
gtxrt
Well-Known Member
they have a melling stock type at roc auto and summit that am running 9.295 long. would help get your preload to .95
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
What is lower pre load actually doing? . There must be something or manufacturer would not offer a recommendation?
gtxrt
Well-Known Member
something they maybe offer for more than for a 440 Mopar it is only . 15 thousand difference. some lifters only have 140 thousand travel like the anti pump up ones.
gtxrt
Well-Known Member
for years everybody was running 25-30 thousand preload for anti pumping up and everybody was saying the lifters were noisy. Hughes engines used to tell you to run .030 now they say .080 - 90 preload. factory stock preload was like 120 thousand preload. maybe the new lifters are not as good as the old ones to run little preload. if want to rev high rpms why would anyone run hyd lifters which cost HP at the higher rpms.
padam
Well-Known Member
You can shim the shafts.
With non-adjustable rockers there’s approximately zero chance the preload is the same across all 8 lifters. If you’re not going for max rpm performance you should be good getting them close to the middle of the range.
With non-adjustable rockers there’s approximately zero chance the preload is the same across all 8 lifters. If you’re not going for max rpm performance you should be good getting them close to the middle of the range.
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
I did read that shimming the rockers messes up the valve train geometry and the correct way would be with the proper length pushrods ? Thoughts ?
Assuming my measurements are correct , and I will be measuring a few more .
My understanding would be i should aim for around .060 which would be about a .050 change .
As mentioned before I do enjoy racing the car, which is the entire reason I went threw the trouble of porting the heads . So if there is some performance potential being left on the table , that isn't going affect normal driving conditions or really have any negative affects on motor itself. It is something im interested in learning about
BSB67
Well-Known Member
When you could get high quality lifters with tru-arc retainers, racers/performance enthusiasts set the preload at or near zero. I set my lifter preload at 0.003. I could run 7000 rpm.
Unlikely you can do this with today’s aftermarket HFT lifters. And with that, just run what you have.
Unlikely you can do this with today’s aftermarket HFT lifters. And with that, just run what you have.
padam
Well-Known Member
You probably had adjustable rockers though, right?
BSB67
Well-Known Member
Yep.
gtxrt
Well-Known Member
yes a solid lifter camshaft. going from .110 to .60 will gain you nothing.
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
One more question .... how / why does a lower pre load allow for higher rpms
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