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Help! New 572 vibration at 3000 RPM

I would.
Right before I got out the infrared thermometer and checked those header temps.
 
You set lash eo/ic method?

I'm assuming you checked the dampener is zero balance
 
Yes just lashed hot again tight .19 thou
 
Hope you forgot a zero :)

Also, please help my ocd and remove the decimals from cam duration in your signature
 
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INTMD8 said:
Hope you forgot a zero :)

Also, please help my ocd and remove the decimals from cam duration in your signature
Click to expand...
Sorry a lot of what I post is sent from my phone and it has a tendance to auto correct and just plain change **** on it's own. Not saying that's what happened just it could for future mistakes...And yes forgot a zero
 
Spoke with Kenny from INDY today he’s going to Pull the record for the balancing of the rotating assembly and send it to me tomorrow . he said he very highly doubts it’s a balancing issue. According to Kenney, the crank is rough balance at Callie’s and is made specifically for this application, and then final balanced by Indy before assembly. But when he asked me how I had it mounted, and I told him I was on a motor plate with a polyurethane vibration pad between it and the frame. He said they tried it on tube chassis cars with a vibration isolator, and it made the whole car shake. He told me to pull the isolation pads and bolted directly to the frame and see if that helps. I need to make 3/8 thick aluminum spacers to keep the engine at the same height that I will install tomorrow going to start another thread about mounting the motor plate to the frame and how everybody does it.

BEC9330D-FEEA-4412-B2C3-422D5958FE99.jpeg


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I have the same bracket set up on both cars as you have.

IMG_3853.jpeg


IMG_3852.jpeg



IMG_3856.png
 
Any chance that you used externally balance harmonic balancer and/or flex plate?
 
Update:
-Changed the plugs, then pulled one after idling and revving in the garage for awhile (very black) Kinda looks like satin spray paint but wipes off clean with my finger. Autolite 3924
-Replaced poly isolators from between the motor plate brackets and frame with aluminum shims of the same thickness. Helped some but not much.
-Made sure no part of motor or exhaust was rubbing frame.
-Compression test show 120psi (Kenny at INDY says should be 100-150 with that cam)
-Header temps taken with a thermal gun warmed up at idle. Ceramic coated headers so not sure how accurate the readings are, it does not like shiny surfaces.
8 252 7 257
6 235 5 230
4 358 3 345
2 198 1 218
-Vibration start around 2,000 and gets worse by 3,000 then gets better by 4,000 but not completely gone.
-Starts great, fires right up without touching peddle, Idles 1350 neutral, 1250 in gear.
-Cruises 60mph @ 2350 with gear vendors engaged. So basically right where the vibration is..
- Feels like it has hard time making it over 6,000ish rpm, Tried like 4 times to make a pull. The 1 time it had a clean pass it pulled like freight train. Kinda like a light switch off then on. I know and have felt that it can make power but it's slow to come in if that makes any sense?
Basically my old 440 would have destroyed tis thing!!
- Maybe convertor is too tight.

I think at this point I'm going to forfeit my Dragweek spot, not sure I can fix this at all, let alone in 4 days..

Very Disappointed :(
 
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My .02......

I’d pull it out and have someone with a decent dyno test it........before I took it apart.
Make sure whoever that is has a good working 4500 carb on hand, and a regular distributor as well(if you don’t have one).

I’ve never put a cam with that much duration in an 11:1 engine, so maybe 120psi is normal for that, but in general, I’d want to see noticeably more cranking pressure with that much duration(or conversely.....less duration with the 11:1cr).
That being said, if all the cylinders test about the same, thats not where the vibration is coming from.
 
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I have three motor plate cars, one has a rear plate between the block and trans. None had a vibration problem, even though solid mounted.
It seems like you have covered most everything. I hate to say it, it sounds like a bad indy balance job (if it was balanced at all).
 
As for the lack of power situation.........let’s just say I’m not brimming with confidence that the EFI and it’s tune are all that optimized.

If it was on the dyno here, I’d expect it to make 825-850hp with a std distributor, 4500 carb, and the dyno headers.
(In theory it would make the same power with the EFI if properly tuned)
I don’t know how that compares with what they told you it would make.
 
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PRHeads said:
As for the lack of power situation.........let’s just say I’m not brimming with confidence that the EFI and it’s tune are all that optimized.

If it was on the dyno here, I’d expect it to make 825-850hp with a std distributor, 4500 carb, and the dyno headers.
(In theory it would make the same power with the EFI if properly tuned)
I don’t know how that compares with what they told you it would make.
Click to expand...
Supposed to make 850ish so yea.
Tried to make some phone calls to try and get on someone’s chassis Dyno this week but all the shops around here are busy. Not many places in NJ or PA areas that still work on older cars. Most shops around me anyway are more Setup for modern stuff and tuner cars. I would love for someone experienced with this to take a look and feel before ripping it apart.
 
Anyone have any recommendations for a shop near me to get a second set of eyes on it?
 
Here’s a thought if you feel the vibration issue isn’t so bad that you couldn’t make the event.

Aren’t there usually some Holley EFI tuning experts at those events?

Maybe take it out on the road a bit more, log some data.........load it up and head down there.
Make some 1/8 mile hits on test n tune, and see if you can get some tuning help from someone there.

Just a thought.
 
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Maybe it’s in the converter? See the hop on the ring gear it’s not a lot but maybe!

 
MO Bingo! Hope it didn't bugger the pump bushing. That's not hard to replace, unless you forget to tighten the front band like I did.
 
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