Here we go. One last time...

[Fran Blacker]

I could certainly see doing this on hydraulic system, but on a mechanical linkage system I can't see it. I guess I really don't understand you can remove an over centre spring and not have any consequences or have to install a clutch pedal stop?

There's a spring on clutch fork to pull the throw out bearing away from the clutch. This is to keep throw out baring from spinning all the time. Is that your concern?

 

[Ladysmith Bob]

That spring is very minimal, do you think it would hold enough?

 

[Fran Blacker]

It's the reason to have it. Also without it linkage would rattle around.

 

[NJRR]

For those of you recommending either of the diaphragm-type clutches, did you actually remove the spring from the clutch pedal linkage? Would you recommend doing so if you had to do it over again now?

Which springs are you all talking about? There is the over-center spring on the pedal assembly inside the car which needs to be removed with the diaphragm type clutch. Then there is also the fork spring which is underneath the car. That does not get removed.

I do not have the over center spring on my clutch pedal. Works perfect, adjusted correctly. I have a McLeod Diaphragm clutch.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'm talking about fork spring.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

How did you take it off? Brake spring tool maybe? How hard is it to remove?

I left it off when I installed the pedal assembly to the dash...................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Instruction, what are they? Your right of course I'll be looking into that. Will be pulling trans in a week or two. Have a couple of issues drip from front seal and need to space bell crank 1/4" to outside of car. Never had clutch pedal stay on the floor.

Puckerw your bung when you hang a power shift at 6000+ RPM and your pedal sticks to the floor..small block chebbie and diaphram clutch..............................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I could certainly see doing this on hydraulic system, but on a mechanical linkage system I can't see it. I guess I really don't understand you can remove an over centre spring and not have any consequences or have to install a clutch pedal stop?

AFAIK the over center spring sole purpose is to help dis- engage the clutch with a 3 finger pressure plate. My 64 Dodge has a factory clutch pedal stop...........................MO

 

[moparedtn]

Which springs are you all talking about? There is the over-center spring on the pedal assembly inside the car which needs to be removed with the diaphragm type clutch. Then there is also the fork spring which is underneath the car. That does not get removed.

I do not have the over center spring on my clutch pedal. Works perfect, adjusted correctly. I have a McLeod Diaphragm clutch.

After speaking with Brewer's today, this is also what I've come to understand.
I also realize I'm missing the little spring on my shifter fork.

Now I just have to decide if I want to take the plunge for the diaphragm type clutch.
Time's about up to get stuff here in time for weekend after next...

 

[moparedtn]

Puckerw your bung when you hang a power shift at 6000+ RPM and your pedal sticks to the floor..small block chebbie and diaphram clutch..............................MO

Mercy. What do you do in such a case (after determining you didn't grenade the motor, that is)? Pry the pedal back up off the floor with your foot?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Puckerw your bung when you hang a power shift at 6000+ RPM and your pedal sticks to the floor..small block chebbie and diaphram clutch..............................MO

Called center force they advised me to remove it for the same reasons. Haven't put my MSD 6AL on so... Will be removing spring. After reading about washers in spring help to remove spring had an "Oh yeah moment" heard of it but didn't recall it, gettin' old. You very funny.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

After speaking with Brewer's today, this is also what I've come to understand.
I also realize I'm missing the little spring on my shifter fork.

Now I just have to decide if I want to take the plunge for the diaphragm type clutch.
Time's about up to get stuff here in time for weekend after next...

Also there is a little spring that goes between the fork and the lever on the Z bar. It is there to keep the clutch adjuster located in place if the adjustment gets a little loose.................................MO

 

[moparedtn]

Another probably stupid question:
Removal of z-bar on clutch linkage - I'm at the point of needing to do this before we yank the old motor out. I know last time, I just pulled the motor and the z-bar stuff basically fell out while doing so.
Seems to me that's not the proper way to do it.
I don't quite understand how to do it correctly, though. Seems like unscrewing the nut off the back of the pivot in the frame doesn't buy me any clearance/play in the z-bar; further, the ball pivot screwed into the bellhousing doesn't look like it would be allowed to unscrew all the way out with the z-bar on it?

What's the correct way to remove the z-bar? FSM isn't real clear on the subject.

 

[moparedtn]

Also there is a little spring that goes between the fork and the lever on the Z bar. It is there to keep the clutch adjuster located in place if the adjustment gets a little loose.................................MO

Yep, that's the one I'm missing. Always wondered why there wasn't a nut on the other side of the fork adjuster.
EDIT: Found it! No worries.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Mercy. What do you do in such a case (after determining you didn't grenade the motor, that is)? Pry the pedal back up off the floor with your foot?

No, the pedal releases with a loud bang when the RPM slows down enough. I thought I had blown up the flywheel -pressure plate the first time it happened. I have had a cluch blow up and nearly come thru the floor ( stock bell-housing).. That will make you check to see if all your toes are there !..................MO

 

[Fran Blacker]

There a little spring clip made out of wire 1/16" dia. on bell housing side of b- crank. It chips to B-crank it holds the nylon piece that go on the ball of the ball stud. 1 pic = 1000 words.

 

[moparedtn]

No, the pedal releases with a loud bang when the RPM slows down enough. I thought I had blown up the flywheel -pressure plate the first time it happened. I have had a cluch blow up and nearly come thru the floor ( stock bell-housing).. That will make you check to see if all your toes are there !..................MO

I witnessed a friend do exactly that in a Nova in high school - in our mutual friends' car, no less. Decided to do a burnout and revved hell out of the 350, then dropped the clutch.
Flywheel sawed it's way out from under the car, causing damage to the floor and fender on the way - and narrowly missed my friends' toes.
Flywheel didn't stop until it slammed up against the school, some 50 yards away.
Quite a spectacle.
I had to keep my friends separated from there - one trying to kill the other, you know.

 

[moparedtn]

There a little spring clip made out of wire 1/16" dia. on bell housing side of b- crank. It chips to B-crank it holds the nylon piece that go on the ball of the ball stud. 1 pic = 1000 words.View attachment 398546

Thanks!
The FSM has that pic, but doesn't really explain what exactly one does to collapse the whole thing enough to get it out of there.

 

[moparedtn]

With the replacement transmission on its' way, I'm going to fetch replacement gaskets for the side cover, input housing, etc. and a new output seal as well for it.
How hard is it to split off the tailshaft housing from the main housing, so that maybe I can replace that gasket as well?

 

[Fran Blacker]

A guy I met through friends was at Ct dragway and did a neutral start with his 62 Maxi. BOOM trans exploded blew the floor up as high as the bench seat and broke the dumb asses leg. He was lucky.