Here we go. One last time...

[Fran Blacker]

Thanks!
The FSM has that pic, but doesn't really explain what exactly one does to collapse the whole thing enough to get it out of there.

Remove the clip it should allow you to slide it around. Probably have to remove outer stud. That how I remove it from my 65, it is a little different.

 

[NJRR]

Remove the clip it should allow you to slide it around. Probably have to remove outer stud. That how I remove it from my 65, it is a little different.

Back in 80-81, I had my first 70 Satellite convertible, 318, 3 on the tree. I was driving back to college on the NJ Turnpike and suddenly my clutch pedal went limp. I was able to coast over to the shoulder after I just slipped it in neutral. It was in the middle of winter and at night. I crawled under the car and see my z bar hanging. That little clip broke and the nylon bushings for the ball stud fell out. Luckily I had some wire in the car and was able to rig up the z bar enough so I could engage the clutch. I had to go to 6 different chrysler dealers to finally get the bushings and clips. No online sales or ebay back then.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

There a little spring clip made out of wire 1/16" dia. on bell housing side of b- crank. It chips to B-crank it holds the nylon piece that go on the ball of the ball stud. 1 pic = 1000 words.View attachment 398546

And that is why a factory shop manual is a good friend..........................MO

 

[moparedtn]

And that is why a factory shop manual is a good friend..........................MO

Yep. Got one.
As I said, the pic is there, just not an explanation of disassembly of the z-bar.

 

[moparedtn]

Big-assed purchase made at Brewer's.
Clips for the shifter levers/rods, hardware kit for the z-bar, gaskets and seals for the A833, 11" 143 tooth flywheel - and the biggie, the 11" 23 spline Centerforce dual friction clutch kit.
Wallet says ouch...
In the meantime, I received word the replacement A833 is being shipped out today, so hopefully it all gets here early next week.

 

[dieseldazzle]

Big-assed purchase made at Brewer's.
Clips for the shifter levers/rods, hardware kit for the z-bar, gaskets and seals for the A833, 11" 143 tooth flywheel - and the biggie, the 11" 23 spline Centerforce dual friction clutch kit.
Wallet says ouch...
In the meantime, I received word the replacement A833 is being shipped out today, so hopefully it all gets here early next week.

Everytime I follow one of your posts I get all pissed off and then you always end up doing something sensible lol.

Maybe it's because you think out loud on here? For some reason I just have to click on the posting too!

Thanks ed, luv ya

 

[moparedtn]

Everytime I follow one of your posts I get all pissed off and then you always end up doing something sensible lol.

Maybe it's because you think out loud on here? For some reason I just have to click on the posting too!

Thanks ed, luv ya

Oh man, I don't mean to put folks through such trials and tribulations.
You are correct, sir - I do tend to use the forum as a "journal" of sorts, doing a lot of thinking through my fingers - but there's a reason I do that, too.
I'm trying to stimulate some of you expert types to chime in, stay engaged, help my dumb *** out when I'm veering off the chosen path.
Ok, I also admit to suffering from what my wife calls "researchitis" - I research something to death, spend days reading up on it, asking advice from experts, etc.
to the point I overdo it and stagnate, overwhelmed with too much information.

Guilty as charged, your honor.
Glad you're hanging in here, DD. Seriously.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Oh man, I don't mean to put folks through such trials and tribulations.
You are correct, sir - I do tend to use the forum as a "journal" of sorts, doing a lot of thinking through my fingers - but there's a reason I do that, too.
I'm trying to stimulate some of you expert types to chime in, stay engaged, help my dumb *** out when I'm veering off the chosen path.
Ok, I also admit to suffering from what my wife calls "researchitis" - I research something to death, spend days reading up on it, asking advice from experts, etc.
to the point I overdo it and stagnate, overwhelmed with too much information.

Guilty as charged, your honor.
Glad you're hanging in here, DD. Seriously.

The engine thread got a little frustrating for internet mechanics. Just to many symptoms to try and diagnose the correct one. I could never be a teacher. be like." get out of the way and watch what I do !!"
I got my knee replacement a month ago, and planned it for the middle of Winter so I could be glad I didn't have to get out in it while recovering. Wouldn't you know it, we have had a lot of 65-75 degree weather with no snow or rain. So many things I could have been doing. So.. that is why I have been sticking my nose in this thread so much...Nothing to do !! Can't go anywhere without wifey taking me, can't get up and down from floor, Got to use this dam walker all the time , and can't walk far enough spend any garage time.....and now, gotta wait for your parts to come in. LOL.
So, what did you finally do for a transmission? .............................MO

 

[Fran Blacker]

Isn't that the way, figure bad weather and don't get it. 1 month isn't enough time. another month you should be there or close.

 

[coloradodave]

Ed,
Take off the nut on the ball stud on the frame. The Z-bar will then lift up and you can pull it away from the stud on the motor side.

 

[moparwacko]

Ed, it's called Analysis Paralysis, guilty myself. In the midst of header and exhaust choice right now. I know if I was 20 again, it would already be done, lol.

Back to the Z bar, unhook the return spring, remove clips and unhook the linkages. Remove the Snap spring, remove the frame ball stud nut and push stud in towards bellhousing. Then just angle it upwards and- bam done. The clip just orients the plastic bushings, and should be replaced frequently if you have heavier than stock clutch. Get a clutch shaft service kit, it comes with all new small parts-well worth it.
And remember, going back together - lubrication is your friend!
Not many know our old cars need regular greasin, nor how.
Good luck

 

[moparedtn]

The engine thread got a little frustrating for internet mechanics. Just to many symptoms to try and diagnose the correct one. I could never be a teacher. be like." get out of the way and watch what I do !!"
I got my knee replacement a month ago, and planned it for the middle of Winter so I could be glad I didn't have to get out in it while recovering. Wouldn't you know it, we have had a lot of 65-75 degree weather with no snow or rain. So many things I could have been doing. So.. that is why I have been sticking my nose in this thread so much...Nothing to do !! Can't go anywhere without wifey taking me, can't get up and down from floor, Got to use this dam walker all the time , and can't walk far enough spend any garage time.....and now, gotta wait for your parts to come in. LOL.
So, what did you finally do for a transmission? .............................MO

Got one coming from a fellow FBBO member who wishes to remain anonymous.

 

[moparedtn]

Ed,
Take off the nut on the ball stud on the frame. The Z-bar will then lift up and you can pull it away from the stud on the motor side.

Thanks again, Dave!
By the way, did you sell that mini-starter? If not, is it any smaller/shorter in length than the factory "Dakota" starters? If so, I'd like it.

 

[moparedtn]

Ed, it's called Analysis Paralysis, guilty myself. In the midst of header and exhaust choice right now. I know if I was 20 again, it would already be done, lol.

Back to the Z bar, unhook the return spring, remove clips and unhook the linkages. Remove the Snap spring, remove the frame ball stud nut and push stud in towards bellhousing. Then just angle it upwards and- bam done. The clip just orients the plastic bushings, and should be replaced frequently if you have heavier than stock clutch. Get a clutch shaft service kit, it comes with all new small parts-well worth it.
And remember, going back together - lubrication is your friend!
Not many know our old cars need regular greasin, nor how.
Good luck

Got a kit coming from Brewer's, thanks!
Yeah, I'd love to get rid of these Hedman's and now would be the time, but if I go with anything else, I'd have exhaust work to do. Time and money says to leave that for another day.

 

[moparedtn]

Body said today was a light day, mostly cleanup and final minor disassembling of stuff.
A couple of surprises, naturally:

That there is the clutch rod. I'm thinking that's supposed to be a full loop on the end.
"Hello, Brewer's?"

Some more numbers off the "old" transmission. You know, the wrong one.
Yep, that says 1966.
I tried to find some number deciphering online for the casting numbers, to no avail.
We already know the front bearing retainer is the little one, so I guess it doesn't matter. Probably a 4 speed out of a small block b-body or some such.
wonder if Brewer's wants it?

Finally...

All clear on both sides of the engine. It's ready for a yankin' when the cavalry gets here.

Oh, and about this little #$%#$%:

The z-bar gave me a LOT more aggravation than it should have. I about had the nut pulled off the back of the ball stud mounted in the frame when it seized on the threads and started spinning the ball stud.
Dammit. No way to grab the ball stud and hold back, either.
No worries, right? It's sitting in a slotted hole on the frame mount, should just lift right out....and it did, some.
Just not enough to get the z-bar free of the ball stud on the side of the bellhousing.

Was about to get all medieval on its' *** when I remembered the back of the engine was still sitting on a jack, so I lowered the engine....and lowered....and lowered until the damn z-bar was finally free enough to come clear.

I was all ticked off about this, of course, and wondering why it had been so difficult when it hit me - the car wasn't a 4 speed originally, which meant the previous owner had to have welded the ball stud mount on the frame.
He did, all right - just not exactly where it's supposed to be, apparently.
Oh well. We'll figure it out.

 

[NJRR]

I was all ticked off about this, of course, and wondering why it had been so difficult when it hit me - the car wasn't a 4 speed originally, which meant the previous owner had to have welded the ball stud mount on the frame.
He did, all right - just not exactly where it's supposed to be, apparently.
Oh well. We'll figure it out.

Which is why I didn't do my conversion myself, as I mentioned previously.

 

[moparedtn]

Which is why I didn't do my conversion myself, as I mentioned previously.

Oh, I'm not saying I could have done any better - dude was probably eyeballing it and had a beer in the other hand while welding.
On the other hand....at least it's not something I did, either.

Ain't no thing. Already placed another order with Brewer's for the clutch adjusting kit - and for the fluid I forgot the first time.

 

[Fran Blacker]

If you go to post 136, is the wire snap ring on the bellcrank shaft? It holds the ball stud and bushings in. Remove that and ball stud should pullout.

 

[moparedtn]

If you go to post 136, is the wire snap ring on the bellcrank shaft? It holds the ball stud and bushings in. Remove that and ball stud should pullout.

Nope, no snap ring was present. Didn't matter anyways, come to find out - that rascal wasn't coming out until I dropped the back of the motor. Things were tight enough in there that the snap ring wasn't even necessary, I guess.

Putting all of this back together with all new parts from Brewer's might just be a challenge. : -)
I might have to "adjust" the ball stud mount on the frame back a bit.

 

[NJRR]

Nope, no snap ring was present. Didn't matter anyways, come to find out - that rascal wasn't coming out until I dropped the back of the motor. Things were tight enough in there that the snap ring wasn't even necessary, I guess.

Putting all of this back together with all new parts from Brewer's might just be a challenge. : -)
I might have to "adjust" the ball stud mount on the frame back a bit.

Problem with the ball stud mount being in the wrong position is the the crank will not be square and you will torque the linkage. That was one of my biggest hesitations in trying to tackle the welding myself.