Here we go. One last time...

[moparedtn]

Ok, heard back from Brewer's. Wayne's suggestions:

-FLYWHEEL, 11" 143 TOOTH, NEUTRAL BALANCED, RECONDITIONED FW211R
-FLYWHEEL BOLT PKG 7/16" X 20 SET/6 BP912
-RAM 11" 23 SPLINE STREET CLUTCH DISC/PP/BRG/TOOL RAM1123PKG
-PRESSURE PLATE BOLT PKG SET/6, 9/16" HEX HEAD

That is this clutch setup:
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RAM1123
Borg & Beck type, organic disc, rated 2400 lb.

For $10 more, I can get the Centerforce dual friction diaphragm type:
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CDF1123

For quite a bit less, I can get the McLeod Super Pro street diaphragm setup:
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MC75208

I wonder why they recommended the B&B type?
Further, why would they recommend the reconditioned flywheel when their website shows a new one just like it for the same price?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Sounds a little polite complaining in a phone call is in order about flywheel bet you could get a little better price. I would lean to center force or the McLeod because of pedal pressure.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Sounds a little polite complaining in a phone call is in order about flywheel bet you could get a little better price. I would lean to center force or the McLeod because of pedal pressure.

I would still go with what I am using, and it is the lowest price with all new componets...............MO

 

[moparedtn]

I would still go with what I am using, and it is the lowest price with all new componets...............MO

Actually, I suppose so far it would be the $199 flywheel with the McLeod clutch kit from Brewer's for cheapest/all new, eh?

 

[moparedtn]

For those of you recommending either of the diaphragm-type clutches, did you actually remove the spring from the clutch pedal linkage? Would you recommend doing so if you had to do it over again now?

 

[Fran Blacker]

I didn't remove spring and I have a center force. This was my first 4 speed so I can't say for sure but it works.
Is there a reason not to use old flywheel, heat cracks or something else? Why not resurface it? Did I miss a reason in an earlier post?

 

[Ladysmith Bob]

If you remove spring from clutch linkage there is nothing to stop throw-out bearing from riding on fingers. A lighter spring would be advisable

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Actually, I suppose so far it would be the $199 flywheel with the McLeod clutch kit from Brewer's for cheapest/all new, eh?

IIRC it would be the 440 Source $150 flywheel, and the McLeod clutch kit................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

For those of you recommending either of the diaphragm-type clutches, did you actually remove the spring from the clutch pedal linkage? Would you recommend doing so if you had to do it over again now?

Yes, and absolutly..................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I didn't remove spring and I have a center force. This was my first 4 speed so I can't say for sure but it works.
Is there a reason not to use old flywheel, heat cracks or something else? Why not resurface it? Did I miss a reason in an earlier post?

Why didn't you remove the spring? instructions tell you to do so..............................MO

 

[Cornpatch MO]

If you remove spring from clutch linkage there is nothing to stop throw-out bearing from riding on fingers. A lighter spring would be advisable

Light spring down on the fork, or on the linkage after the pedal.............................MO

 

[moparedtn]

I didn't remove spring and I have a center force. This was my first 4 speed so I can't say for sure but it works.
Is there a reason not to use old flywheel, heat cracks or something else? Why not resurface it? Did I miss a reason in an earlier post?

You haven't had any issues with the pedal staying down as a result?
The old flywheel had lots of tiny stress cracks when I had it resurfaced last time, although the machine shop said it would "probably" be ok. I don't feel like I want to trust it this time.

 

[moparedtn]

If you remove spring from clutch linkage there is nothing to stop throw-out bearing from riding on fingers. A lighter spring would be advisable

I thought the same thing, Bob, so I did some digging online.
Apparently, this is considered acceptable by some - they use the analogy of hydraulic clutch throwout bearings doing the same thing by design?
Beats me...

 

[moparedtn]

IIRC it would be the 440 Source $150 flywheel, and the McLeod clutch kit................MO

Ah, true, but 440source doesn't list a 143 tooth 11" flywheel?

 

[moparedtn]

Yes, and absolutly..................MO

How did you take it off? Brake spring tool maybe? How hard is it to remove?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Why didn't you remove the spring? instructions tell you to do so..............................MO

Instruction, what are they? Your right of course I'll be looking into that. Will be pulling trans in a week or two. Have a couple of issues drip from front seal and need to space bell crank 1/4" to outside of car. Never had clutch pedal stay on the floor.

 

[Ladysmith Bob]

There is a world of difference between 1" pedal free play on a mechanical system and 1" free play on a hydraulic system in that the hydraulic system pedal travel from vibration, potholes etc. still has to travel the additional distance of the internal fluid return transfer port, where the mechanical linkage moves directly on the release bearing. Is my thinking out of date or does this seem plausible?

 

[moparedtn]

There is a world of difference between 1" pedal free play on a mechanical system and 1" free play on a hydraulic system in that the hydraulic system pedal travel from vibration, potholes etc. still has to travel the additional distance of the internal fluid return transfer port, where the mechanical linkage moves directly on the release bearing. Is my thinking out of date or does this seem plausible?

You're talking above my pay grade, Bob.
Hopefully a more knowledgeable soul will chime in here?

 

[moparedtn]

Here's the instructions Brewer's sent me on how to remove the over center spring:

"With the pedal in the up position, jam washers between the coils of the spring, top and bottom. Then, with the clutch pedal rod removed, carefully move the pedal to the floor, it will tend to “mousetrap” down. With the spacing in the spring from the washers, you should be able to pop the spring off the clutch pedal."

 

[Ladysmith Bob]

I could certainly see doing this on hydraulic system, but on a mechanical linkage system I can't see it. I guess I really don't understand you can remove an over centre spring and not have any consequences or have to install a clutch pedal stop?