How do you repair a broken wire on the main firewall plug

[roy p]

Here is a pic of the factory fuseable link wire from the ammeter to the main firewall plug how do I fix this without breaking the stock plug please.

 

[eagleone1983]

Did the wire just pull out of the terminal? The terminals can be "pinched" from the male side and removed out of the bulkhead connector.

 

[Propwash]

Like Mentioned, Pinch it together enough in the front of the plug and the terminal connector/wire will slide right out from the backside. Good luck

Female side on the bulkhead connector will require the use of a fine precision screwdriver, to slide into the slot opening to bend a tab on the terminal connector down on. Male connectors are a lot easier.

 

[roy p]

I fried it because I powered up the car and it shorted, some how I have power running everywhere that should be a grounded. I suppose the best way to find the power problem is to unplug each wire at a time and see which power wire is doing this to me.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Actually, none of those connectors look very good and likely will need attention. The easy and expensive way is to buy a new harness but if you are careful and pay attention to detail you can do it yourself. Carefully dig out the burnt connector with a sharp blade, awl, scribe, small screwdriver or whatever implement you can use to separate the plastic from the metal connector without destroying the shell. The connectors have a little tang that locks it in place against the plastic shell and that can be seen and unlocked from the other side. I'm sure you have some terminals that move freely in the shell so wiggle the better ones and try to see and understand what is happening there. You'll know what to do once you see how the retaining system works.

To replace the terminal you will have to use the more commonly available Packard 56 type, which are primarily used on GM cars. Chrysler used the Packard (55 I believe?) and those are only available as part of the harness made by M&H (bastards!). But I have made the GM ones work with a little modification and securing by soldering and heat shrink.

Note: Every old MoPar will suffer from issues directly related to this bulkhead, if not immediately then eventually. So the first thing one needs to do when digging into a car is address this. If the electrons aren't getting there neither are you.

Here's a google search of the 56
https://www.google.com/search?q=pac...la:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb

 

[Dan]

Checkout the repair and rewire of mopar bulkhead connectors at this website. madelectrical.com

 

[Propwash]

I suppose the best way to find the power problem is to unplug each wire at a time and see which power wire is doing this to me.

Or ohms test the wires...A bit safer than running + power. Sounds like a main power source is shorting out. I'd check at the black wire coming in from the alternator, red wire/fusible link from starter relay, fuse box, and power connection on the back of the ammeter. Good luck

 

[roy p]

Lots of good info, thanks a bunch guys. For now I would like to just get it going for the guy that's going to brake in the motor for me, hopefully this week.

 

[Dako]

Roy,

That looks like an original `68 engine bay harness? By the coloring of the wire casings it has likely been through a LOT of heating and cooling cycles in its lifetime. Don't get me wrong. I'm all about repairing stuff! But the whole time you will be trying to dig out that 'hole', you will be tugging and twisting on the rest of those original, brittle wires and plug. I would think hard about simply replacing the engine bay harness. Cheap insurance and will eliminate any other under hood wiring issues (fires) coming up.

 

[roy p]

Your correct Dako its all original, the car has sat for half of its life indoors not running. I know what your saying but all the wires feel ok nothing really dried out that I can tell. If it wasn't for my bad connection that fuseable wire would of been fine as well. For now I'll do the repair, I would like to keep as much original stuff on it as I can.

 

[440+6]

After your repair, make sure you clean all the terminals as best as possible and apply dielectric grease.

 

[roy p]

Any idea on what size fuse I should use to replace that fusable wire?

 

[topmill]

looked on my schematic but shows no values. If you cant find the value on line let me know and I will attempt to read mine. Also if you need a replacement "pin" for your plug let me know I might have a harness that I can remove a pin and leave enough wire on it so you can splice it in. I just did it on my under dash harness and looks fine. Oh price.$$$$$ free.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

I had to do a repair like this. You probably will find the terminal is fused from the heat into the block. The block is probably distorted at that terminal. So you will have to be creative driving it out without too much damage. I would also check the matching terminal in the bulkhead block, along with the wire. Normally there is more damage. Parts are available. G

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Any idea on what size fuse I should use to replace that fusable wire?

With the factory one, you can buy a new factory fusable link cable. Example -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Fusib...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ea27d9ae&vxp=mtr

 

[roy p]

I found out partly why it blew. When the plug with that fusable line is connected into the firewall portion, its shorting out due to there being a negative ground coming from it. I'm hoping its the plug and not the firewall box, I really don't want to pull out the dash. A bit more testing is needed still. For now I just put in a few bypass power lines with switches from the battery to the coil and another to the starter so that I can fire it up and brake in the motor. Will keep you posted