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HYD. Roller lifters , which one?

446 this past spring.
Morel Street series lifters(recommend 350-375 open pressure), high lift/high rpm lobes, dual springs set up at 140/370, RAS 1.5 rockers, Ede heads.

No audible valvetrain issues, and power still hanging on good at 5800.
Make a pull to 6000 see what happens....... power still looked decent.
Make a second pull to 6000........ motor is skipping after the pull.
One plunger is stuck at the bottom of a lifter.
Had to replace it.
Driven 10/40 oil.

We don’t really blame the lifters...... just seems to be the nature of the beast.

Dynoed another 446 a few months ago......same lifters, same springs, Crane ductile 1.5’s.
Limited the pulls to 5800...... no problems.
 
How aggressive were those lobes? I’ve had those same issues with comp lifters in the past and we didn’t turn those past 6 on the dyno.
 
we just got some howards anti-pump ups hyd rollers for a rb build , my cams grinder picked them out . not bad cost wise there .
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DSC01568.JPG
 
Well, the description for the one that had the issue states “excellent stability for the broadest possible power range”.

The second used more aggressive lobes with short seat timing.
The owner was looking for good street manners and was fine with setting the limiter to 5800.

Honestly, in BB applications(any kind of BB), the only lobes Ive had success with that didn’t need tons of spring load are the ones designed for sustained high rpm marine use.
Those will usually go 6500 okay, but they have a lot of seat timing.......and will often give up some low end power and drivability as a result.

In my mind, the retro-fit hyd roller stuff is for “street” type applications...... and I don’t feel $1000 lifters fit in with that theme.
So, if I have to run solid roller spring loads to maintain the control that will allow the motor to run to a more suitable rpm limit....... I’ll just run the solid roller instead.

I’m still selling quite a few SFT cams as well.
 
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. I’ll just run the solid roller instead. I’m still selling quite a few SFT cams as well.
That is what my research, reading AndyF's book, and the replies on the forum, and IQ52's advice are all pointing me towards!
The larger diameter of the Mopar lifter works in my favor for being able to have a damn good, seemingly "roller-ish" cam profile but use solid flat tappet lifters. If that is a mischaracterization, at least the larger diameter lends itself to a more aggressive cam profile, but with lighter
lifters (compared to rollers) and less aggressive spring rates, right?
Also no worries about having to rebuild the rollers...
:thumbsup:
 
I have a PRHeads spec’d flat tappet in my 511. It’s done everything I wanted.

same with 383man.
 
Just so we’re clear, these are the lifters I’ve had at 6500rpm on the dyno and the ones I’m referring to in this thread.
9CCFC1FD-1CB0-4CB5-9BD0-4D29D62CF36B.jpeg


The Howard’s lifters are most likely the same as the standard Morel hydraulic roller lifter.
 
The Hi-prm ( 6074 ) are the ones i'll probably go with. I got myself confused earlier and thought they were the limited travel ones but there not. Morel has a HLT series with a .015-.030 travel before going solid but i do not see a part number for this series and bb Mopar.
 
The Hi-prm ( 6074 ) are the ones i'll probably go with. I got myself confused earlier and thought they were the limited travel ones but there not. Morel has a HLT series with a .015-.030 travel before going solid but i do not see a part number for this series and bb Mopar.
Straub told me the HLT were mainly a class racing lifter where rules prohibit running a solid yet competing requires near solid roller profiles. I don’t know if they make a mopar version but it’d be interesting to test a set.
 
Straub told me the HLT were mainly a class racing lifter where rules prohibit running a solid yet competing requires near solid roller profiles. I don’t know if they make a mopar version but it’d be interesting to test a set.
Probably not something i need for this build , but yeah, it would be nice to know what's out there and how well it wood work
 
my cam grinder said , moral and johnson makes most of the lifters today for everyone . we had a go a round with johnsons in a la hyd flt tappet so , i did not want any of theirs this time . those hyd flt tappets would not hold oil pack so they would loosen up and rattle every time you started it . a street driver with rattling valve train , not good .
 
my cam grinder said , moral and johnson makes most of the lifters today for everyone . we had a go a round with johnsons in a la hyd flt tappet so , i did not want any of theirs this time . those hyd flt tappets would not hold oil pack so they would loosen up and rattle every time you started it . a street driver with rattling valve train , not good .
After talking with my engine builder today I really only have one option and that is the Morel hi-rpm series lifters . He still feels like they will work out fine on this build....I gotta admit ,i'm nervous.
 
Dan I'm sure you will be fine. I will go with solid lifters then a year from now we can compare notes.
 
Dan I'm sure you will be fine. I will go with solid lifters then a year from now we can compare notes.
Lol, Barry , if this thing noses over hard any time before 6300 -6400 rpm on the dyno I won't need a year ,5 minutes will do.
 
Tappet will work for me with what I'm doing. Will see I my be wishing but thinking I'll be on the street more than the track and having rpms all up and down with street driving I don't have to worry about sucking a lifter. I hope
 
Lol, Barry , if this thing noses over hard any time before 6300 -6400 rpm on the dyno I won't need a year ,5 minutes will do.
From what I'm reading here we are safe from 5800 till 6300. If you are all in at 6200 and your torque and hp stay on the good side then no problem. 6300 up sounds like it could be trouble so if we only bump the top number now and then should be ok.
 
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