I forgot how to reorient a big block distributor in the engine block

[vegiguy]

It's been so long since I put this big block engine together for my RR that I forgot how to reorient the distributor. I need to turn it slightly counterclockwise so I sits right on the engine. I'm guessing what I really need to reorient is the drive gear inside the engine since the slot the distributor shaft keys into is in fixed position in the middle of the gear, so could someone please tell me the easiest way to do this once the engine is all assembled and in the car? I'm used to dealing with GM engines so please bear with me. Thanks for any help.

 

[khryslerkid]

Make sure your at top dead center. Normally the slot in the distributor drive is parallel with the cam, front to back. Not a biggie, then set your distributor to #1. Counterclockwise rotation on your firing order.

 

[440+6]

Make sure your at top dead center. Normally the slot in the distributor drive is parallel with the cam, front to back. Not a biggie, then set your distributor to #1. Counterclockwise rotation on your firing order.

Yup tdc compression stroke, and rotor pointing towards the alternator.

 

[vegiguy]

I know that. My question was how to rotate the gear inside of the engine block because this one won't move and the slot the distributor keys into appears to be a part of the gear (unless they are supposed to be separate but have gotten rusted together which I doubt) . This is different than a GM set-up where you have a separate drive rod that the distributor shaft keys into going down to the oil pump that rotates independent of the gear. I figure the way this Mopar set-up works is the gear/rod assembly has to be pulled up slightly to disengage the teeth, rotated slightly, then shoved back down into the block hoping it ends up in the correct position to orient the distributor how I want it. Is that right?

I had this all figured out many years ago but then got sidetracked restoring antique Chevy pick-ups for people so this Mopar project got shelved.

 

[khryslerkid]

Ok, use a large screwdriver and rotate the slot in the gear clockwise and it should rise up off the cam gear...

Correction, counter clockwise

 

[vegiguy]

So the piece in the middle of the gear with the slot in it IS separate? I already tried to turn it with a large screwdriver and it won't budge at all - that's why I thought it might just be one solid piece. I even put a crescent wrench on the screwdriver to get more leverage, and still no go. I sprayed some PB Blaster on it and called it quits after that. My next step if it is in fact supposed to be free of the gear is to try tapping it with a hammer and punch to try to free it up.

 

[Hemirunner]

The gear is pressed and pinned to the shaft. It may as well be one piece. If merely turning it won't raise the gear, you need some type of 90 degree hook tool to grab under the gear and pull it up. Like a flat blade screwdriver with the tip bent over. It shouldn't be that tight.

 

[vegiguy]

Okay. I'll try that. Thanks.

 

[miller]

Might as well know, the bottom end of the shaft is hexed, fits into the oil pump drive. So, have to make sure both the hex end, and cam gear engage...hex will engage first.

 

[furyus]

Your motion for removing the gear/oil pump drive shaft should be up as well as rotating. I use a pair of long needle nose pliers. Pulling up and turning at the same time. Could it be possible you are turning it the wrong way?

 

[khryslerkid]

Worse case scenario is to remove the oil pump and drive the shaft upwards from underneath. If it's that tight the bushing must be deformed or scared.

 

[Daves69]

.................

 

[vegiguy]

.................
View attachment 354137

That's what I'm aiming for: with the #2 contact on the cap pointing almost straight down (or to the right, however you want to look at it).

 

[vegiguy]

.................
View attachment 354137

That's what I'm aiming for: with the #2 contact on the cap pointing almost straight down (or to the right, however you want to look at it).

 

[vegiguy]

I was able to pull the gear up and rotate it, so it looks like I got the problem solved. Now I have to figure out which of the two timing marks that are on my harmonic balancer to use, or why there are two marks on it to begin with.

 

[miller]

Now I have to figure out which of the two timing marks that are on my harmonic balancer to use, or why there are two marks on it to begin with.

Two marks? Timing marks, mainly 0, one on the balancer itself, one on the timing tab mounted on the timing chain cover.
You 'should' verify TDC is correct, since the balancer weight where the timing marks are, is rubber mounted, and can 'slip'. TDC comes around TWICE, once at compression stroke, once at exhaust stroke. Need to get #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke, and see if the timing marks are right, and go from there...

 

[datblackchallenger]

I know that. My question was how to rotate the gear inside of the engine block because this one won't move and the slot the distributor keys into appears to be a part of the gear (unless they are supposed to be separate but have gotten rusted together which I doubt) . This is different than a GM set-up where you have a separate drive rod that the distributor shaft keys into going down to the oil pump that rotates independent of the gear. I figure the way this Mopar set-up works is the gear/rod assembly has to be pulled up slightly to disengage the teeth, rotated slightly, then shoved back down into the block hoping it ends up in the correct position to orient the distributor how I want it. Is that right?

I had this all figured out many years ago but then got sidetracked restoring antique Chevy pick-ups for people so this Mopar project got shelved.

 

[datblackchallenger]

I worked a large screw driver back forth, left to right and it freed up a walked up the gear. Large magnet works but harder.

 

[vegiguy]

Two marks? Timing marks, mainly 0, one on the balancer itself, one on the timing tab mounted on the timing chain cover.
You 'should' verify TDC is correct, since the balancer weight where the timing marks are, is rubber mounted, and can 'slip'. TDC comes around TWICE, once at compression stroke, once at exhaust stroke. Need to get #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke, and see if the timing marks are right, and go from there...

I'm going to take the valve covers off and watch the valves open and close to try to figure out which timing mark on the balancer to use. Years ago I left the engine with one of the marks lined up with the tab on the timing cover so I must have felt that that was the correct mark at the time.

I'm also going to readjust the valves because i can't remember how I did it the first time it has been so long. I suppose Chrysler engines are like Chevy engines in that everyone has their own way of adjusting the valves, huh? After working on cars and trucks for a large part of my life I still haven't found a way of doing this that I call my "go to method".

 

[miller]

which timing mark on the balancer to use

Are you saying there are two different marks on the balancer itself? Should only be one. If there are two, sounds like the outer ring had slipped, and someone added another mark. The outer ring is pressed onto the mounting ring, with a rubber sleeve between them, the timing mark lined up (90 degrees from keyway), as it's put together. You should consider replacing the balancer, since if it's loose, or getting that way, it can come apart!

Solid or hydraulic tappets? Assuming since your rockers are adjustable...solid?
A couple good ways to adjust the valves. Simple way, bring #1 piston to top, compression stroke. Both valves will be fully closed...adjust both rockers, then, in rotation of the motor, by hand, simply follow the firing order, bringing the next piston up top, adjust valves, and so on.
There's another (that some prefer on solids), but takes a chart to know which valves to set. Basicly, #1 TDC compression stroke...but, then two completely different valves, one intake, one exhaust are set. Chart is needed to know which two valves. And on from there. Many racers do it, since the two valves being set are on the bottom side of those cam lobes base circle.