70B5Cuda
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The drivers side quarter didn’t get replaced so that’s why Matt used that design...it had to be installed from the wheel tub side.
Lookie what $5000 buys you....
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That is superb. I have always thought that the wheel tub should have ran right along the quarter panel edge.
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Uhhh...I had to learn for myself.
It was 96 out in the shop, the Vaseline was so soft it was like melted ice cream. It was hard to get the Plexiglas to seal.
The water would not fill the chamber. It got up past the valves and formed a wall in the area that is the quench zone in those types of heads. I had a fill hole and an air hole and the water would push out of the air hole even though the chamber wasn't full.
It has been a shitty day.
Hey, the most important thing is you are out there giving it a try. This is the way we all learn!
1wild&crazyguy
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Use multi purpose grease to seal the plate, set head up level then tilt it around to get air bubbles to bleed off at the fill hole.
dsd1967
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Vacuum grease is good too. It’s about the consistency of RTV but doesn’t harden. I believe it’s a silicon based grease and won’t dissolve with the rubbing alcohol.
When they did my heads the springs weren’t in so they put a little grease on the valves too.
I tried doing it myself also and ran into some of the issues you are seeing. I was finally somewhat successful but still had the air bubble issues. He told me about the rubbing alcohol trick and got a lot different number than I did.
When they did my heads the springs weren’t in so they put a little grease on the valves too.
I tried doing it myself also and ran into some of the issues you are seeing. I was finally somewhat successful but still had the air bubble issues. He told me about the rubbing alcohol trick and got a lot different number than I did.
1 Wild R/T
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I don't set the head level, I intentionally set the head with one end about 2" higher than the other, I have the hole in my plexiglass plate set at the very upper edge of the chamber, when I fill the air comes out immediately...
When you start level you trap bubbles & they have to migrate to the vent...
I do need to try the alcohol method....
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I was able to get 4 heads measured yesterday. One '906 and 3 '452s.
3 of them came in at 90ccs except one of the '452 heads. It was 88ccs. My '346 heads are still with the machinist.
These are the ones that had the shallowest chambers. I'll check these once I get them back.
3 of them came in at 90ccs except one of the '452 heads. It was 88ccs. My '346 heads are still with the machinist.
These are the ones that had the shallowest chambers. I'll check these once I get them back.
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Strange thing that I noticed a couple of days ago.....
I don't know if this is stock, but this car came with a hood from another car. Maybe it was an XH model as well. Instead of hood turn signals, it had small steel block off plates. Well, actually just one plate. The right side has nothing. I am currently looking for a pair of proper lenses and the wiring.
I don't know if this is stock, but this car came with a hood from another car. Maybe it was an XH model as well. Instead of hood turn signals, it had small steel block off plates. Well, actually just one plate. The right side has nothing. I am currently looking for a pair of proper lenses and the wiring.
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Among the other things that I have planned for the car, I am contemplating a change to the firewall. To me, the stock A/C firewall looks really busy. MY red car is also factory A/C and I changed it to a Classic Auto Air system. They include these black painted block off plates to cover the various holes. I'm not real fond of how that came out but I wasn't ready to pull the engine and interior to change the firewall.
With this car at such a stripped down condition, I can make changes now and not disrupt anything. If I ever decided to add A/C to this car, I'd go with another CAA kit. For the meantime, I am thinking of using a stock heater/defroster.
The tentative plan is to cut out the right side of the stock firewall while leaving a 3/4" section below the cowl pinch weld, along the fender apron support and the lower edge where the firewall meets the floor pan. I'll probably butt weld down the center.
I've heard some suggestions that it would be easier to just make patches for all the holes and fill them in. My problem with that is there are a lot of odd shapes and sizes and if/when I do the Classic Auto Air system, I don't want to risk cutting through a welded edge if the HVAC unit requires it since welds are often harder to cleanly drill or cut through.
With this car at such a stripped down condition, I can make changes now and not disrupt anything. If I ever decided to add A/C to this car, I'd go with another CAA kit. For the meantime, I am thinking of using a stock heater/defroster.
The tentative plan is to cut out the right side of the stock firewall while leaving a 3/4" section below the cowl pinch weld, along the fender apron support and the lower edge where the firewall meets the floor pan. I'll probably butt weld down the center.
I've heard some suggestions that it would be easier to just make patches for all the holes and fill them in. My problem with that is there are a lot of odd shapes and sizes and if/when I do the Classic Auto Air system, I don't want to risk cutting through a welded edge if the HVAC unit requires it since welds are often harder to cleanly drill or cut through.
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I have a goal to have the car running and driving by September 5th. It was September 5, 2019 when I towed it home. In the meantime, I started a job that keeps going and going....
I used to work for a construction framing company that often had down time between jobs. These new guys are busy-busy-busy. The little break that I used to get was something that I really looked forward to having. It gave me a chance to get caught up on various things here at home.
I have a ton of things to do. The engine is at the machine shop. I'll be the one assembling it.
The gas tank still hasn't arrived. No fuel lines are in the car. The electrical system is old and untested. I have parts for this car stashed everywhere but I'm sure that I'll be missing several things that are not immediately available.
Time off right now would be great but it would be irresponsible to just quit so I could work on the car.
There is no reason for the 9-5-20 goal except that I think it would be cool to achieve that.
I have intentions of moving out of state in the next couple of years and I don't want to transport a group of non running cars. Eventually, this car will likely get stripped back down for a proper body and paint job.
I used to work for a construction framing company that often had down time between jobs. These new guys are busy-busy-busy. The little break that I used to get was something that I really looked forward to having. It gave me a chance to get caught up on various things here at home.
I have a ton of things to do. The engine is at the machine shop. I'll be the one assembling it.
The gas tank still hasn't arrived. No fuel lines are in the car. The electrical system is old and untested. I have parts for this car stashed everywhere but I'm sure that I'll be missing several things that are not immediately available.
Time off right now would be great but it would be irresponsible to just quit so I could work on the car.
There is no reason for the 9-5-20 goal except that I think it would be cool to achieve that.
I have intentions of moving out of state in the next couple of years and I don't want to transport a group of non running cars. Eventually, this car will likely get stripped back down for a proper body and paint job.
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The firewall conversion has begun!
I pulled out the HVAC unit and set it aside. Most of the bolts were already missing anyway.
Sawzall and grinder is next!
I left approximately a 7/8" flange on the top, side and bottom edge of the original firewall.
This is what is left of the 1970 Belvedere front stub that I used to repair this car.
Anyone need a relatively clean section for their car?
I pulled out the HVAC unit and set it aside. Most of the bolts were already missing anyway.
Sawzall and grinder is next!
I left approximately a 7/8" flange on the top, side and bottom edge of the original firewall.
This is what is left of the 1970 Belvedere front stub that I used to repair this car.
Anyone need a relatively clean section for their car?
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I test fitted the Belvedere panel and cut the middle down so I can butt weld a seam.
I pulled it back out, cleaned the edges and punched holes to plug weld.
I sprayed the edges of the existing firewall and the Non A/C FW with weld through primer and started welding it in,
View attachment 968308
I pulled it back out, cleaned the edges and punched holes to plug weld.
I sprayed the edges of the existing firewall and the Non A/C FW with weld through primer and started welding it in,
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The MIG ran out of gas as I was finishing.
I spread seam sealer along the edges on the inside.
There are a couple of A/C specific mounting holes still to weld up.
This was an easy job. I have made a deal with a guy to buy a stock heater/defroster so at least I'll have that!
I spread seam sealer along the edges on the inside.
There are a couple of A/C specific mounting holes still to weld up.
This was an easy job. I have made a deal with a guy to buy a stock heater/defroster so at least I'll have that!
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I had new bushings pressed into the lower control arms. The machinist was nice enough to bead blast them too.
I made stiffening plates and welded them on today.
I made stiffening plates and welded them on today.
What a cool very ambitious ‘wanna build’ find!!! Wow, Bests to ya’.......looking good!
You won't regret those. When I restored my 70 Road Runner, I added those plates, a sector support kit, Firm Feel stage II box and a full US Car Tool body stiffening kit. Those pieces, along with all new wear parts in the suspension made my car steer and handle like a dream.
Keep up the good work!
Hawk
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Thank you. I added them to my other car back in 2002 but used metal way too thick! It was approx 3/16". It only needs to be 14 gauge to be effective. Thicker than that is just added weight.
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Take a look. What is different between these two pictures ?
Okay, the sun moved and the shadow changed, what else?
Okay, the sun moved and the shadow changed, what else?
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It took almost S I X.... W E E K S to get this gas tank. W T F ???
I ordered it the same time that I got the trunk floor. May 22nd. It finally arrived today. It has been 18 years since I changed a tank in a Charger. I don't remember if the red car posed as much of a struggle. The gas tank straps as shipped were not shaped correctly. They needed 2 bends that they did not have and without making them, the tank will not fit correctly. I had the red car nearby but it was still a pisser. Once I figured that out....The J bolts wouldn't fit through the holes in the straps. Yeah, lower the tank, get the drill and ream out the hole. GREAT.
The straps are black, stock is natural steel, right?
The floor seal is in terrible shape but for now, it stays.
I'll get a new one when I go to paint the car.....unless I see one at a swap meet sometime.
I ordered it the same time that I got the trunk floor. May 22nd. It finally arrived today. It has been 18 years since I changed a tank in a Charger. I don't remember if the red car posed as much of a struggle. The gas tank straps as shipped were not shaped correctly. They needed 2 bends that they did not have and without making them, the tank will not fit correctly. I had the red car nearby but it was still a pisser. Once I figured that out....The J bolts wouldn't fit through the holes in the straps. Yeah, lower the tank, get the drill and ream out the hole. GREAT.
The straps are black, stock is natural steel, right?
The floor seal is in terrible shape but for now, it stays.
I'll get a new one when I go to paint the car.....unless I see one at a swap meet sometime.
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