Lookie what $5000 buys you....

[Migsbig]

Very nice score. That should be a fun project.

 

[Kern Dog]

Thanks, Miggy. I got the car JUST in time too. The owner had to take a job out of state and if I didn't get it now, it may have had to wait until Christmas time to get it.

 

[Migsbig]

Oh dang, that would have been an issue. Well, if you need any parts, I’ll ask sone of my buddies if anything is around. Terry in Napa might have some goodies available too. Maybe something at Fall Fling could be sourced there.

 

[Kern Dog]

The first thing that I see missing is the center lower dash plastic piece. On A/C cars like this one, it has the 2 horizontal vents.

 

[Rainy day auto]

The first thing that I see missing is the center lower dash plastic piece. On A/C cars like this one, it has the 2 horizontal vents.

View attachment 842012

Those lower dash pads have gone down in price. They have really good re pops available.

 

[Migsbig]

Ok, will ask around for one. Guess when I get my other two’ projects in, I’ll have to post them here too. So will this be a resto. drag, auto cross or ratrod car?

 

[Kern Dog]

I have not decided. I will probably make it a solid driver and paint it.

 

[Migsbig]

cool. Lot of fun with a driver type style build without going big bucks.

 

[Kern Dog]

I just saw this video with what appears to be the same model, same color and same vinyl top as this car I bought!

 

[Migsbig]

That video reminds me of when I was in school as a kid and they would play similar style information on a mini projector. That charger looked nice in there. $3k for a new 1970 Charger. Wish I had a time machine!

 

[Ceedawg]

Well that just raised my expectations on the value of my find (same price) not a charger but..

 

[rolling_Thunder]

Great score - I've been looking for a 69-70 carcass to build myself I know where three 69s are sitting but owners wont sell

 

[Kern Dog]

I dragged down the frame rails and torsion bar crossmember I saved from a '68 Satellite.

I then realized that the RH rail must have had a stubborn K member bolt....I don't remember cutting it off.

I soaked it in PB blaster:

But even after I drilled through it, I started thinking that it might come out easier if I welded another fat bolt on it and cranked it out.
Anyone else have an idea on how to extract this thing?

 

[Kern Dog]

It is amazing that these cars are just held together with spotwelds!

The metal looks bad at first but it all cleans up nicely with a wire wheel and a soft disc on a grinder.

I was able to split the rails from the torsion bar crossmember with just a hammer and a chisel.

 

[Kern Dog]

The spotweld cutter that I bought at the NAPA store is amazing! Clean cuts without shredding the parts.

 

[Kern Dog]

This is the donor car....OLD picture!

 

[NoCar2023]

Careful with that hatchet.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Careful with that hatchet.

Back in the 80's & early 90's we cut up allot of cars at Pick n Pull with a hatchet & a mini sledge.... You weren't allowed any power tools, rechargeable sawmills didn't even exist... No gas, no generators, no cutting torches....

Gotta love spell check.... Sawmills????? No... Sawzall......

You put a hatchet on the metal at a 60 degree angle & smack the hammer side with a mini sledge & you'll cut sheet metal about 3" at a shot.... Frame rails are tougher but they will cut too...

 

[Photon440]

But even after I drilled through it, I started thinking that it might come out easier if I welded another fat bolt on it and cranked it out.
Anyone else have an idea on how to extract this thing?

Had many sheared off bolts in castings when working on trains. Something like that, I'd place a large nut (same size threads as broken bolt) over it and weld it on, filling the center of the nut with weld using lots of amperage. Often the heat penetrating the bolt would help loosen things up.

 

[Kern Dog]

Shoot, that is a better idea than welding a bolt on. The penetration of the welded nut would be better than I'd get around the perimeter of a bolt.