Lookie what $5000 buys you....

[1 Wild R/T]

That must still be the current policy at self-service yards.
I have seen guys recently cutting panels off with a hammer and chisel.

I can't speak for other areas but around here battery powered sawzalls are allowed....

And the chisel is way harder to use effectively, the ax/hatchet keeps your hand away from the danger zone...

 

[NoCar2023]

That must still be the current policy at self-service yards.
I have seen guys recently cutting panels off with a hammer and chisel.

Had to delete the prior post . . . for some reason I clicked the quote button and messed up your statement.

 

[NoCar2023]

I can't speak for other areas but around here battery powered sawzalls are allowed....

And the chisel is way harder to use effectively, the ax/hatchet keeps your hand away from the danger zone...

I don't know, but a saws-all is definitely the way to go.

 

[Kern Dog]

I only used the hatchet for the extra weight. The claw hammer wasn't heavy enough. The chisel has a sharp enough point to spread the panels apart to get to the welds. THis car will get welded frame connectors and torque boxes, a fully welded K member and suspension similar to my Red car.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I only used the hatchet for the extra weight. The claw hammer wasn't heavy enough. The chisel has a sharp enough point to spread the panels apart to get to the welds. THis car will get welded frame connectors and torque boxes, a fully welded K member and suspension similar to my Red car.

Well if you haven't tried it you might want to... You'll be surprised how effective it is....

 

[hunt2elk]

I soaked it in PB blaster:
View attachment 866993

But even after I drilled through it, I started thinking that it might come out easier if I welded another fat bolt on it and cranked it out.
Anyone else have an idea on how to extract this thing?

I have found what works the best is to weld another nut to the remaining stud. The heat from the weld will help loosen up the rust. It should turn out fairly easily, but if not and your weld breaks, just weld on another nut and try again.

 

[Kern Dog]

It works!

 

[hunt2elk]

Easy peasy, huh? A buddy showed me that trick a few years ago and I am always amazed with the results. I think back to all the time I used to spend drilling a hole in the bolt and then trying to get an easy out to work.

 

[Kern Dog]

Yeah...I have broken off several of those "EZ Outs" over the years!

 

[Ceedawg]

Well if you haven't tried it you might want to... You'll be surprised how effective it is....

You might want to be careful striking the hatchet with a hammer especially if both pieces are hardened. Way back in the day I was showing what not to do and sure enough a piece of the hammer broke off (size of a pencil lead) and went through my shirt and embedded in my chest, a trip to emergency room to dig it out (1/2” deep into the skin)

 

[1 Wild R/T]

You might want to be careful striking the hatchet with a hammer especially if both pieces are hardened. Way back in the day I was showing what not to do and sure enough a piece of the hammer broke off (size of a pencil lead) and went through my shirt and embedded in my chest, a trip to emergency room to dig it out (1/2” deep into the skin)

Ax anvil is not hardened...

 

[Kern Dog]

I have flattened numerous hammer faces over the 32 years in construction. I don't recall any of them being hardened. I have used Titanium hammers since 2001 and have to reface them every couple of months. The grid pattern wears fast.
I hope to get the car in my shop in the next couple of days and start removing the bent stuff. I'll certainly go back and REread some of the advice I've received in this thread.

 

[eldubb440]

I hit a hammer with a hammer years ago; a piece broke off and stuck in my knee, almost like a bullet......lesson learned

 

[Kern Dog]

And....SO it begins!
I pushed the car from behind my shop to the front just by myself...on foot. Man, when the entire front end is off and there is basically nothing but suspension and steering, this car is really easy to move!
I used the Power Wagon to push it the rest of the way into the shop.

I mocked up some sheet metal to see how stuff lines up. As ElDubb 440 was saying, the sheet metal will dictate what is square and what isn't.

With the fender gap at the cowl and at the fender set with paint mixing sticks as a gauge, I laid the hood loose on the car.

While not exactly scientific, I used another stir stick to set the hood to cowl gap. Bad news though....

I see a 7/8" gap where a 1/4" gap should be. This means that the left rail and apron are shifted over to the left.
I was able to shift the fender over to close the gap some but it has me wondering if this rail needs to be pushed back to the right. I measured the '70 Belvedere stub and the XH rail looks to be 1/8" to the right at one reference point. I don't know how close their tolerances were when new so this may be within spec. I am guessing that the substructure can be a bit out of whack but with shims, ovalling out mounting holes and some other tricks, the sheet metal can be made to fit. Obviously I'd rather that it all fell into place because I figure that if the body has to be pushed, shimmed or adjusted beyond the norm, what are the chances that I'll be able to align the front end the way I'd like?

 

[Kern Dog]

The 1970 Belvedere and Charger core support has a different mounting pattern at the top.
Belvedere/Charger below:

THis '68 Satellite top bar is different. One hole in the center instead of two oval holes.

Not a problem. I have a spotweld cutter and a welder! Looks like I'm going to piece this together with a series of parts.

 

[Kern Dog]

The front suspension and K member is out. Oddly, the K member measures out to be square. I thought that it was bent!

It could still be corkscrewed. I'm going to set it on wood blocks to see if it sits even at all 4 points. This is just for kicks...I have the other K member here with the sway bar in it, tabbed LCAs, etc.

 

[NoCar2023]

And....SO it begins!
I pushed the car from behind my shop to the front just by myself...on foot. Man, when the entire front end is off and there is basically nothing but suspension and steering, this car is really easy to move!
I used the Power Wagon to push it the rest of the way into the shop.
View attachment 870542 View attachment 870543 View attachment 870544
I mocked up some sheet metal to see how stuff lines up. As ElDubb 440 was saying, the sheet metal will dictate what is square and what isn't.
View attachment 870545
With the fender gap at the cowl and at the fender set with paint mixing sticks as a gauge, I laid the hood loose on the car.
View attachment 870546
While not exactly scientific, I used another stir stick to set the hood to cowl gap. Bad news though....
View attachment 870547

I see a 7/8" gap where a 1/4" gap should be. This means that the left rail and apron are shifted over to the left.
I was able to shift the fender over to close the gap some but it has me wondering if this rail needs to be pushed back to the right. I measured the '70 Belvedere stub and the XH rail looks to be 1/8" to the right at one reference point. I don't know how close their tolerances were when new so this may be within spec. I am guessing that the substructure can be a bit out of whack but with shims, ovalling out mounting holes and some other tricks, the sheet metal can be made to fit. Obviously I'd rather that it all fell into place because I figure that if the body has to be pushed, shimmed or adjusted beyond the norm, what are the chances that I'll be able to align the front end the way I'd like?

You need to pull the frame on that car, its too far out for shims or elongated holes.
You can rig up a come-along or a cherry picker to make a pull.
Check this out.

 

[eldubb440]

make sure the very front fender bolt (on the inner fender) is tight. this will pull the fender in as far as it will go...... you're probably gonna need to "cross measure" a couple of things

 

[eldubb440]

KD.........the only possible hiccup I see, is the outside chance that the driver side rail was moved a little in the accident. we'll cross that bridge when and if you get there

yep..... saw it coming, we can deal with it

 

[eldubb440]

, maybe both rails, inners, and core support as a unit, just cut everything that's bent off......... the hood and fenders, will dictate everything

this is still an option