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Looking to replace my radiator

lantzn said:
I have two issues with my 68 Coronet I need to solve this summer. Brakes and Cooling. I’ve pretty much figured out all the parts I need for the front drum to 11.75’ disc conversion.

Now I need to gather info on cooling especially sitting in hot weather traffic that can get into the 100s. I’m not sure what radiator the previous owner put in, the OEM number is wrong but it leaks.

68 Coronet 500/383 4bbl/727/non-AC

There’s no shroud on this 22” radiator which is wrong anyway.

Can you list each part you used with the number?
Click to expand...
I would have to do some digging for all of the part numbers, but here's what I can give you..
I just installed this radiator but in black. I don't think he has them anymore, at least not right now. Eastwood radiator paint would do the trick though. This radiator fit great, no modification needed..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1972-...-/303574254985?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

Using a hayden 2947 fan clutch with a factory 7 blade fan.
Factory style shroud from summit...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI8uyAzPu58AIVDP_jBx06tgAVEAQYAyABEgKUDfD_BwE

Did I miss anything?
 
65-440 said:
I just installed this radiator but in black. I don't think he has them anymore, at least not right now. Eastwood radiator paint would do the trick though. This radiator fit great, no modification needed..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1972-...-/303574254985?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

Using a hayden 2947 fan clutch with a factory 7 blade fan.
Factory style shroud from summit...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI8uyAzPu58AIVDP_jBx06tgAVEAQYAyABEgKUDfD_BwE

Did I miss anything?
Click to expand...

My car is a 22” rad for 383/4bbl H code/727/non-ac. Do you happen to know what bracket/adapter is needed to go from 22” to 26”?

What do you think of the aluminum milodon high flow water pumps?
 
lantzn said:
My car is a 22” rad for 383/4bbl H code/727/non-ac. Do you happen to know what bracket/adapter is needed to go from 22” to 26”?

What do you think of the aluminum milodon high flow water pumps?
Click to expand...
65-440 said:
I would have to do some digging for all of the part numbers, but here's what I can give you..
I just installed this radiator but in black. I don't think he has them anymore, at least not right now. Eastwood radiator paint would do the trick though. This radiator fit great, no modification needed..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-1972-...-/303574254985?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

Using a hayden 2947 fan clutch with a factory 7 blade fan.
Factory style shroud from summit...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI8uyAzPu58AIVDP_jBx06tgAVEAQYAyABEgKUDfD_BwE

Did I miss anything?
Click to expand...

I’m looking at the photo of your blue 68 and the upper hose is towards the right/passenger side of the car. The link you provided shows a rad with both upper and lower on the left side.

Also can you tell me what side the lower hose is on your car?
 
lantzn said:
I’m looking at the photo of your blue 68 and the upper hose is towards the right/passenger side of the car. The link you provided shows a rad with both upper and lower on the left side.

Also can you tell me what side the lower hose is on your car?
Click to expand...
Oops, ignore that radiator link! I completely missed that! Definitely not the one I have.....upper hose on pass side and lower hose on drivers side..
Either way, click on that link and go to the sellers store. He has a bunch of mopar radiators. May have to paint it black if he only has it in raw aluminum...
 
Last edited:
lantzn said:
My car is a 22” rad for 383/4bbl H code/727/non-ac. Do you happen to know what bracket/adapter is needed to go from 22” to 26”?

What do you think of the aluminum milodon high flow water pumps?
Click to expand...
I don't know of any brackets for that, my car came with a 22" rad and I cut the opening bigger for the 26"....was very easy to do.
....I'm running an aluminum miloden on my 340 dart and a 440 source aluminum water pump on my 383. Both have given me zero issues.
 
65-440 said:
Oops, ignore that radiator link! I completely missed that! Definitely not the one I have.....upper hose on pass side and lower hose on drivers side..
Either way, click on that link and go to the sellers store. He has a bunch of mopar radiators. May have to paint it black if he only has it in raw aluminum...
Click to expand...

I believe this is the correct one. He calls it a right upper left lower.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3015463846...irated&hash=item463590ad0b:g:WJQAAOSwn5pgUgHc
 
These large tube 2 row aluminum radiators sound a whole lot more efficient the either the OEM or 3 and possibly the 4 row copper cores. If this is the case then maybe the big block 22” one would be sufficient.

Here is my OEM 22” radiator for my 68 Coronet 383/4bbl H code/727/no air car. The number on the radiator matches my factory parts catalog.

I’ve sent the photos to the ebay seller asking for the link to the correct radiator.

I’ll add a factory shroud, an HD clutch to my stock 7 blade fan, aluminum high flow pump and 180 thermostat (unless a better stat is mentioned).

2CD8651A-FD33-416D-AC93-9A3044ACD3BC.jpeg
5054A293-AC63-4AEF-AD67-5D90B16A5C65.jpeg
11B11C68-4E6B-492F-9348-1AF2634DAE2C.jpeg
E454EE1E-75FB-4B0B-9B66-74BA645DECAE.jpeg


Just found these images from a parts catalog. 22” shroud...upper and lower with 4 brackets...that sounds like a pain. Apparently the 22” OEM shrouds were metal, 2 part that bolted together. Sheesh the shroud costs as much as the radiator.
The 26” got the one piece plastic shroud.

CF38DA4E-0F5F-4A99-8185-0A3D4BAFDA62.jpeg
1CFF6C47-38BB-43B8-A73B-11C82C574B76.jpeg
 
Last edited:
lantzn said:
These large tube 2 row aluminum radiators sound a whole lot more efficient the either the OEM or 3 and possibly the 4 row copper cores. If this is the case then maybe the big block 22” one would be sufficient.

Here is my OEM 22” radiator for my 68 Coronet 383/4bbl H code/727/no air car. The number on the radiator matches my factory parts catalog.

I’ve sent the photos to the ebay seller asking for the link to the correct radiator.

I’ll add a factory shroud, an HD clutch to my stock 7 blade fan, aluminum high flow pump and 180 thermostat (unless a better stat is mentioned).

View attachment 1110200 View attachment 1110201 View attachment 1110202 View attachment 1110203

Just found these images from a parts catalog. 22” shroud...upper and lower with 4 brackets...that sounds like a pain. Apparently the 22” OEM shrouds were metal, 2 part that bolted together. Sheesh the shroud costs as much as the radiator.
The 26” got the one piece plastic shroud.

View attachment 1110212 View attachment 1110213
Click to expand...
Honestly you'd probably be just fine with one of his 2 row radiators.... 2 rows are much more efficient than 3 and 4 rows...people tend to think more rows/cores the better, until they continue to run just as hot or hotter! The idea is to move air through the radiator "pulling" the heat out, 3 and 4 row rads have a more likely chance of trapping the air between the tubes instead of letting it pass through.....
 
Napoleon1991 said:
I need some help with my cooling system. Im looking for a 22" radiator that will cool the 440 in my 65 coronet. I currently have a 7 blade flex fan and a 3 row summit aluminum rad that just isnt cutting it at idle or slow speeds. Im looking to switch to a stock style clutch fan and shroud and a better radiator. Ive done alot of searching, but most of the radiator suppliers list their products as fitting 66 and up cars. Is there a reason that some of these radiators wont fit a 65? Some of the brands im looking at are OER, Griffin & Wizard.
Click to expand...
I agree with Vandan, call Glen Ray , these guys are simply the best. They recorded my original radiator years ago. Couldn’t be more pleased with their work and knowledge. The best in the biz call him no disappointments.
 
65-440 said:
Honestly you'd probably be just fine with one of his 2 row radiators.... 2 rows are much more efficient than 3 and 4 rows...people tend to think more rows/cores the better, until they continue to run just as hot or hotter! The idea is to move air through the radiator "pulling" the heat out, 3 and 4 row rads have a more likely chance of trapping the air between the tubes instead of letting it pass through.....
Click to expand...

So I have been talking with the eBay vendor of the ECP radiators. I told him my plan, sent photos of my OEM 22” and here are his comments.

New message from: autocity1958 (25,121
stars-12.gif
)
okay so check out the one I sent in the last message I think it would be a little more efficient, but I do not recommend the high flow water pump , because the radiator itself is already designed as a high flow so there is a point where you will just be moving the coolant to fast for it to do its job. and usually what happens is it will be okay at idle but running at driving speed is when it starts to move too fast and temp can rise. now this is not always the case but I have run into it being an issue with other customers.

New message from: autocity1958 (25,121
stars-12.gif
)
I think think the 22" would make a difference, now your original 22" for the 383 [prior to sending photos] probably had the inlet just left of center , if you go with the one for teh 426 it has the inlet fully offset to the passenger side and is a little more efficient, plus for the 26" you would have been swinging the hose full offset anyway check out eBay item number: 293394774126 then we can also do it in black too.
 
Interesting theory on the high flow water pump, I haven't experienced any issues. Built my engine 4yrs ago, been running an aluminum radiator shortly after the build.
 
65-440 said:
Interesting theory on the high flow water pump, I haven't experienced any issues. Built my engine 4yrs ago, been running an aluminum radiator shortly after the build.
Click to expand...

I figure I’d try what’s in it. I really don’t know yet if the pump was upgraded. Is the pumps part number easily seen once the fan is out of the way?
 
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