Lowered Ride Height Produced Too Much Camber

[6T8 Charger]

I bought my 1968 Dodge Charger 3 years ago and I'm finally at the point where I can drive it! For some reason, the previous owner had the ride height really high (the adjustment bolts under the LCA were about maxxed all the way in). I dropped the car down on both sides which has given the car a much nicer (lower) stance, but in doing so, it created so much positive camber, the car screeches when I drive it down the road. Any suggestions on how to get my front tires to zero or a little negative camber? I'm ready to start shimming between the lower control arm bolts and the ball joints! Thank you.

 

[Kern Dog]

Hello,
First, turn the phone or camera sideways to get a better picture, Vertical pictures of skyscrapers and rocket launches are great but otherwise, vertical pictures look terrible.

Secondly, look at this thread:

Alignment at home and aftermarket UCAS too.

I've been through several front ends of these Mopars and learned a few things.
The thread topic above should answer most if not all of your questions.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I bought my 1968 Dodge Charger 3 years ago and I'm finally at the point where I can drive it! For some reason, the previous owner had the ride height really high (the adjustment bolts under the LCA were about maxxed all the way in). I dropped the car down on both sides which has given the car a much nicer (lower) stance, but in doing so, it created so much positive camber, the car screeches when I drive it down the road. Any suggestions on how to get my front tires to zero or a little negative camber? I'm ready to start shimming between the lower control arm bolts and the ball joints! Thank you.

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Basic alignment? Moving the car up/down front or back usually requires one

 

[Kern Dog]

When you have the car up in the air, then set it back down, the camber and toe will not be at their final resting position. The Mopar suspension will only settle when the tires are allowed to move. Some roll the car forward and back. For my home alignment, I used what some will call turning plates. I wrote about it in my alignment thread that I linked to my last post here.
When lowering the car with the floor jack, if the tires are set down on pavement, they cannot slide laterally and the suspension stays in a bind, usually producing positive camber. Turning plates allow the tires to slide over to their resting place and the camber and caster are much closer to where they need to be. Rolling the car forward and turning the steering wheel back and forth allows the suspension and steering to return to the baseline. From there you can start making alignment changes.
In my thread, I also posted a chart showing the changes in the alignment as the vehicle height changes. Many people recommend to get an alignment when making changes in ride height. A change of 1/2" isn't much and I wouldn't worry about that but in 2 to 2 1/2" of height, you can have some noticeable changes in everything....Camber, Caster and toe.
Feel free to ask more questions on this. I don't know everything but I'd gladly share what I do know.

 

[khryslerkid]

When you have the car up in the air, then set it back down, the camber and toe will not be at their final resting position. The Mopar suspension will only settle when the tires are allowed to move. Some roll the car forward and back. For my home alignment, I used what some will call turning plates. I wrote about it in my alignment thread that I linked to my last post here.
When lowering the car with the floor jack, since the if the tires are set down on pavement, they cannot slide laterally and the suspension stays in a bind, usually producing positive camber. Turning plates allow the tires to slide over to their resting place and the camber and caster are much closer to where they need to be. Rolling the car forward and turning the steering wheel back and forth allows the suspension and steering to return to the baseline. From there you can start making alignment changes.
Feel free to ask more questions on this. I don't know everything but I'd gladly share what I do know.

it created so much positive camber, the car screeches when I drive it down the road.

 

[dfrazz]

Few guidelines I follow when adjusting ride height:
- Front end needs to be off the ground before making any adjustments
- Lowering/Raising the front end will effect the height of the rear
- Make small incremental changes - just a couple turns at a time
- Take the car for a short drive after you have made adjustments, the car WILL change ride height. Then measure each side
- Almost any change in ride height will require an alignment

 

[Cranky]

Didn't read all the posts....but when I lowered my 66 Belvedere I was able to increase my camber AND caster without using aftermarket parts.....

 

[Kern Dog]

The lower the car, the more caster you can get. That is just a product of the design of the steering knuckle and upper control arm arrangement.

 

[Cranky]

The lower the car, the more caster you can get. That is just a product of the design of the steering knuckle and upper control arm arrangement.

How bout camber?

 

[Kern Dog]

How bout camber?

This chart ought to help. First one is for the popular 1973-1976 A body steering knuckle.

With the camber set to zero at the standard ride height, it moves to 1.226 degrees negative when you are 2 1/4" lower than stock. Oddly, it also goes .895 once you're 2 1/4" above standard ride height.
Now the later knuckle used on almost every FMJR and B body from 1973-1989 is a bit different:

It has much more camber change. It goes from zero camber to negative 1.697 when you are 2 1/4" lower but goes a little positive when you raise the car. The second chart also shows far more toe change through the range of suspension travel. It loses toe on compression and really toes OUT on extension.

 

[khryslerkid]

The previous owner, having it higher than stock, must have had quite a bit of upper a arm adjustment looking at what's there now.

Toe might be way off also causing that much camber.

 

[Kern Dog]

Toe and camber are strongly inter-related with these cars.
If you are toed IN a bit too much, the camber can shift POSITIVE. If the toe is OUT too much, it tends to shift the camber NEGATIVE.
Also, if the K member is damaged at the lower control arm mount, alignment can radically move around.

The LCA is secured with a sturdy shaft with threads on the end. It passes through the circled area below:

Sometimes that circled area fails. What usually happens is that the LCA bushing wears out and the cushioning effect of that bushing goes with it. Then the K member gets hammered and the hole there gets ovalled out....

Once that hole gets opened up, the alignment moves around a LOT.
The fix? Weld a 1/8" thick washer around the hole to provide a greater surface area to support the mount.

 

[6PKRTSE]

You also need to assemble the rest of the front end of the car before you get the alignment. All of those pieces are going to affect ride height and alignment/camber numbers.

 

[6T8 Charger]

Thank you all for the helpful info! When I first bought the car, I noticed the front end alignment was horrible. The ride height was so bad, that when I installed the engine/trans, the car still looked like it didn't have an engine in it. I had a bad feeling about it. My next step was to install new UCA's with new bushings, new upper and lower ball joints, new sway bar bushings and new outer tie rod ends, hoping this would fix the problem. I drove the car yesterday and at 10mph when I went over a manhole cover I could feel the car steering shift around from side to side with a lot of play in the steering wheel. It felt kinda dangerous. So my next step will be to remove the LCA's and replace the bushings and inspect the K frame for damage, like Kern Dog mentioned above. I wish they sold new OEM style LCA's so I didn't have to do the 'weld the washer' trick. I'd probably buy the new QA1 LCA's if I knew they'd be easy to install but I don't know anything about them plus the torsion bar end of the QA1 looks like it's missing something. To be continued.

 

[icetech]

Thank you all for the helpful info! When I first bought the car, I noticed the front end alignment was horrible. The ride height was so bad, that when I installed the engine/trans, the car still looked like it didn't have an engine in it. I had a bad feeling about it. My next step was to install new UCA's with new bushings, new upper and lower ball joints, new sway bar bushings and new outer tie rod ends, hoping this would fix the problem. I drove the car yesterday and at 10mph when I went over a manhole cover I could feel the car steering shift around from side to side with a lot of play in the steering wheel. It felt kinda dangerous. So my next step will be to remove the LCA's and replace the bushings and inspect the K frame for damage, like Kern Dog mentioned above. I wish they sold new OEM style LCA's so I didn't have to do the 'weld the washer' trick. I'd probably buy the new QA1 LCA's if I knew they'd be easy to install but I don't know anything about them plus the torsion bar end QA1 looks like it's missing something . To be continued.

I don't do the weld the washer, i get the rubber out then use a sawzall and cut the outer shell enough length wise in 2-3 spots then collapse it with a hammer/chisel.. doesn't take long. And i trust the old stamped arms more than aftermarket ones.. i'm paranoid though clean those holes well and deburr and such before putting the new bushings in.. i have a huge vice and it was still a massive struggle, i thought i was gonna break it.

P.S. if you have them off and a welder it's not a bad time to make sure they haven't spread where the bushing goes in (the 2 halfs can spread apart if you look at it vertically) and they sell reinforcement plates if you wanna do that.. no need for aftermarket

P.P.S. i don't have a press.. thus using a vice...

 

[6T8 Charger]

I don't do the weld the washer, i get the rubber out then use a sawzall and cut the outer shell enough length wise in 2-3 spots then collapse it with a hammer/chisel.. doesn't take long. And i trust the old stamped arms more than aftermarket ones.. i'm paranoid though clean those holes well and deburr and such before putting the new bushings in.. i have a huge vice and it was still a massive struggle, i thought i was gonna break it.

P.S. if you have them off and a welder it's not a bad time to make sure they haven't spread where the bushing goes in (the 2 halfs can spread apart if you look at it vertically) and they sell reinforcement plates if you wanna do that.. no need for aftermarket

P.P.S. i don't have a press.. thus using a vice...

Thank you! I'm gonna use your method. I have a sawzall and a vice. When it comes to installing the new bushings, I don't have a press. Can I use a hammer and tap them in?

 

[icetech]

Thank you! I'm gonna use your method. I have a sawzall and a vice. When it comes to installing the new bushings, I don't have a press. Can I use a hammer and tap them in?

Can try... i had to use my vice.. a local garage would probably do it for $20.. just use something to clean up the bores in the LCA well before trying.. it's a really tight fit.

 

[6T8 Charger]

No wonder my car was all over the road and I couldn't get it aligned right.

 

[icetech]

No wonder my car was all over the road and I couldn't get it aligned right.

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Wow that was bad... can't wait to hear how it rides when you replace it There is a famous youtuber that went drag racing with bushings that bad and the car was all over the place

 

[6T8 Charger]

Wow that was bad... can't wait to hear how it rides when you replace it There is a famous youtuber that went drag racing with bushings that bad and the car was all over the place

I ordered new bushings, new pivot shafts and new torsion bar adjusting bolts. I researched the QA1 LCA's and found that on a 1968 Charger, you have to buy a QA1 K frame and the QA1 front sway bar for the arms to fit! No thanks, I'll rebuild mine!
Your Belvedere looks awesome!