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modern max wedge powerhouse

What's more impressive than the peak numbers are the crazy flat-as-a-proverbial-pancake torque numbers. The 511 rolls into the dyno making 719 lb-ft at 3,900 rpm and doesn't drop below 700 until 5,400 rpm! Even at the end of the pull it was still making well over 600 lb-ft of twist.
That...THAT is what I'm talking about!!
I'm looking for FAT, FLAT torque in that 700 ft lbs range. I sent off the payment to get my rotating assembly ordered, and took the consensus of the forum and advice of my builder and went with the 572 crank. This is a great thread.
 
A bracket racers dream! Put that motor in a 68 to 70 b body, full dress, run 10.00s in a light racers jacket, big, comfortable, easy on the wallet once you own the motor, since shifts need not exceed 6200!
 
Certainly not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying you need a racing license to go under a 10 second quarter..... and you sure as heck don't need 15 to one comp to get there, lol. If he's a street driver, then he does'nt need that hassle either.
Agreed. This is a 10.5:1 pump gas street engine in my car and driven on the street. No, it does not get the best mileage. Lol. I do run it on VP NO2 when on the spray. Yes, I know I left some on the table with not increasing the compression. I enjoy driving my stuff too much.

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Agreed. This is a 10.5:1 pump gas street engine in my car and driven on the street. No, it does not get the best mileage. Lol. I do run it on VP NO2 when on the spray. Yes, I know I left some on the table with not increasing the compression. I enjoy driving my stuff too much.

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That looks MENACING and BEAUTIFUL at the same time!
 
A bracket racers dream! Put that motor in a 68 to 70 b body, full dress, run 10.00s in a light racers jacket, big, comfortable, easy on the wallet once you own the motor, since shifts need not exceed 6200!

Spot on for our '69RR s/strip car except we are in the 10.3's through the muffs and a small restrictive carb currently and we stripe@6200.
 
Spot on for our '69RR s/strip car except we are in the 10.3's through the muffs and a small restrictive carb currently and we stripe@6200.
Great! I hope you stay right where you are. Much more fun for $$, and time spent wrenching.
 
Certainly @IQ52 can chime in to correct me, but Jim has made HUGE power with low compression engines, and I doubt increasing the CR is where Mr. Laroy would go to get more power...
I would speculate that FLOW is one of the areas he has had great success with.
I'm ALWAYS very happy when I see a 50+ year old Chrysler engineered product put out JAW DROPPING power, and if I remember correctly, the 413 and/or 426 MAX WEDGE engines were a couple that had a rather HIGH CR offered by Ma Mopar from the factory. I guess there may have been a few out there who took those stock Max Wedge high compression engines and did just the right head work who had some very exciting results on the track back in the day.
Hey thanks but I'm just living on old glory days, not doing anything new and others are doing things that impress me.............

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,140610.0.html
 
another major plus when using these heads and valley plate with all intakes is that they seal up separate...check out the gap under that crossram between it and the valley plate..some white grease on the intake gaskets and done..u wont need a 3 foot pry bar to get it off all the sealant..
 
another major plus when using these heads and valley plate with all intakes is that they seal up separate...check out the gap under that crossram between it and the valley plate..some white grease on the intake gaskets and done..u wont need a 3 foot pry bar to get it off all the sealant..
dont , forget these are a raised port cyl head . There is some to had for that . They are a great head with minimal prep , maybe as good OOTB as some heavily prepped heads . Comp , racegas and a roller = good HP for a race car , curious to race weight . Might be getting to the edge of factory block strength/life . My first 505ci split after just over 12 months street/strip use going mid 10s shifting @ 6000 .

Tex
 
Might be getting to the edge of factory block strength/life . My first 505ci split after just over 12 months street/strip use going mid 10s shifting @ 6000 .
More reasons why I decided what will likely be the ONLY stroker/performance engine build in my life, the Bill Mitchell aluminum block is a worthwhile investment. 572 cu in with no clearancing required, and with 700 ft lbs torque as my power goal, I don't expect to be spinning it very fast either. Expecting a long, happy, maintenance easy experience with it.
 
When I crewed for my mate in 2020 on the RR we didn't even pull a plug in 5 meetings and drove there and back, not my choice on how to do it but thats how it was, basically never touched anything apart from changing to slicks@the track, and messing with the preload on the bars and stiffening the 9-ways for race, never missed a beat, bit boring really. A Long and happy life for you for sure Bio.
 
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drove there and back
THAT is truly impressive!
I think that I've always driven to and usually from the drag strip. In my Roadrunner, 100% of the time. I snapped a U-Joint on my 89 Conquest TSi at No Problem Raceway once. Drove there, but towed home. It was an odd, early learning experience. I went from some "performance street tire" to Nitto 555R drag radials because I was chirping 3rd gear and my launches were dependent upon getting the "right amount" of tire spin before the Nittos. What I learned was that variable was better than the all stick no spin Nittos. I kept trying to learn how much clutch and throttle to give and kept falling off boost on the launch, worried about abusing my clutch too much I guess. Anyway, I matted the gas and dumped the clutch on one launch and the U-Joint decided to leave the party.
I'm really going to get a lot of use from my HitMaster and McLeod RXT dual disc clutch, once I finally get the time to try them out.
 
Might be getting to the edge of factory block strength/life
yep,,my lowly 446 , 1971 block with 440 source steel main caps with studs and scat rotating assembly will be pushing it but its mostly street driven, been using .650 lift rollers on the street for years...the plan was using the crossram as the cork to keep power levels in check but modern tech, ya gotta love it...common thinking is dont go over 750 HP on an older block. like u say, shift it at 6000 and should live forever. while making 700 HP...i'll take some of that.
 
solid,,after a couple of adjustment checks they dont move with roller rockers.
My builder wants to use hydraulic rollers, I was pushing for solid flat tappet, Jim Laroy has expressed strong apprehension about hydraulic rollers, and I'm afraid to use solid rollers because I'm going to be in a LOT of stop and go heavy traffic, in particular at Cruisin the Coast, which is the ONE activity that I can guarantee I will do my utmost to participate in, the whole week whenever possible, for the rest of my life that I'm physically able to.
I have to admit, I know my build won't "need" solid rollers, nor the cam profile that any roller lifters would afford, but the guy who built up my Pontiac 421 for my wife's 65 GTO used hydraulic rollers, and he's no stranger to me or many other car enthusiasts in South Louisiana. My "admission" is that hydraulic rollers would fit my desired low maintenance profile, certainly perform in the RPM range I anticipate making power in, and I'd hate to have them fail and have to call Jim and say "I should have taken your advice"
What a quandary!
I guess you dance with the one who brought you, so I have to defer to my builder's advice.
What has your experience been with solid rollers, and do you have guaranteed occasions where you're creeping along in stop and go heavy traffic for an hour or so? How often, if ever, have you had to have them rebuilt?
 
My builder wants to use hydraulic rollers,
i will Never use hydraulic lifters again after experiencing failure from offshore made units that blead off during nite time. i dropped several pushrods once until a famous engine builder told me that the only way to be sure it was fixed was solid lifters...
 
I'm no expert here and stage3 will no doubt know better but the only reservation I understood with s/rollers on the street was if in traffic don't idle it too low, too long which is obvious really, you need the pressure/volume.
With that much street use Bio I personally would go solid flat tappet, you may lose 20hp?....I have never been a fan of hydraulics for anything@the track thats gonna get to or exceed 6500rpm. I think you need to think about your weight, you'll know the hp from the dyno?, then figure your gearing/tyre size it'll give you an idea of top end rpm@the stripe on track and then add some for N20 and then figure if hyd rollers are gonna cope. Here's a scenario>
Weight 3800lb?
hp 750?, cam/CR dependent but not that much
29"tyre?
4.10 gear?
60 Foot E.T. : 1.39 Seconds
1/8 Mile E.T. : 6.31 Seconds
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 107.68 MPH
1/4 Mile E.T. : 10.00 Seconds
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 134 MPH
1/4 Mile Trap RPM : 6,367 RPM + N20
so 6500+@the stripe in theory with a small shot and when you get brave with the jets it could be approaching 7k, to me thats not hyd territory and also with a stick its easier to over rev with different scenario's happening, street only perhaps street/strip err no.....just some thoughts.
 
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