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My 1967 Belvedere Convertible Plans and Restoration (aka - Mad Scientist Build)

Just realized that this is the 1000th post on my thread

This Belvedere "project" has come a long way . . . initially the plan was to stick an engine in it and drive it, but after finding this site, and seeing all the fantastic work that people are doing on these cars ( and doing it the correct way ) the plans soon changed to a complete overhaul of the car . . . which I've never done.

So at the start, when I didn't even really know how to butt-weld to panels together, I'm now feeling much more comfortable with that process, and I'm digging into and tackling things that I never DREAMED I would be doing on this project. My Current boss says if you're not "outside your comfort zone, then you're not learning" . . . so that means I'm really learning ( as I really wonder how I'm going to pull some of these projects off ).

Thanks to FBBO, for the fact that I found this site, and that I'm able to attempt to do the modifications to my car that I've always wanted to do, but never thought I'd ever be able o make it happen. Thanks again for everyone's support on this website - it's the best site on the internet - bar none.

Here's to the next 1000, or however many more it takes to get this project done . . . right.
 
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Cutting out the area is not that hard, yes, 4 1/2 in angle grinders with cutoff wheels are great . . . unless they don't want to fit into the areas that you need them to in order to be able to cut the metal . . . with the original frame member on one side, and the spare tire well on the other side . . . there's NOT much room to be able to get the cutoff wheel in place and cut what you need to cut - and not a whole bunch of what you don't want to cut.
:headbang:
 
New sleeve alignment process . . .

Got to fight with metal removal again tonight, and work on the installation process some more. My neighbor helped me mill down a piece of tube steel to allow it fit in the two metal sleeves and assist with the installation.

Here's the plan for setting up the sleeves - old and new . . .

sm_rearsrbracket11.jpg

Once I get the left and right springs situated, and figure out how they need to be mounted, and squared up to each other, then I can slide the sleeve on the steel until it positioned as needed - then tack weld it in place ( I think ) . . .

- - - Updated - - -

haha well that wasn't a nickname. Thats your new formal name you should have on your mail box. Or maybe just the suffix. Either way you lend yourself to so many nicknames and this thread has a life of its own...its just too much fun for all of us. Either way we obviously are glued to it for your updates like our favorite tv show.

:icon_jook::happy1:


KB67Mopar - My thread has a life of it's own . . . and I think I just got demoted to a reality show ? ? ( LMAO )
 
haha well that wasn't a nickname. Thats your new formal name you should have on your mail box. Or maybe just the suffix. Either way you lend yourself to so many nicknames and this thread has a life of its own...its just too much fun for all of us. Either way we obviously are glued to it for your updates like our favorite tv show.

:icon_jook::happy1:

Agreed, I'm always checking in to see what he's up to on the vert.
 
holy smokes you getting alot done khan, looking good. i gotta get going on mine. lol
 
KB67Mopar - My thread has a life of it's own . . . and I think I just got demoted to a reality show ? ? ( LMAO )

I wouldn't call it a demotion, more of a revelation. And we are all stars in this bastardized quest for ratings. It wouldn't be a show without all of us knuckleheads constantly making off the wall comments on observations. But you get the trailer with your name on the door and the fancy sun glasses shaped like stars. haha

I like your method for aligning the bushings. Did you already have the steel bar? also those bushing housings are like 4x thicker than the frame rail....I don't think they will be going anywhere...

I am excited to see this thing back on its wheels with big fat meats under the arse end. This should look pretty killer.
 
I wouldn't call it a demotion, more of a revelation. And we are all stars in this bastardized quest for ratings. It wouldn't be a show without all of us knuckleheads constantly making off the wall comments on observations. But you get the trailer with your name on the door and the fancy sun glasses shaped like stars. haha

I like your method for aligning the bushings. Did you already have the steel bar? also those bushing housings are like 4x thicker than the frame rail....I don't think they will be going anywhere...

I am excited to see this thing back on its wheels with big fat meats under the arse end. This should look pretty killer.


Well, this knucklehead really enjoys all the camaraderie that this site has to offer - and the wealth of knowledge that comes along with it too.

Well, I think I've got a tentative plan for how to build this thing . . . and it's going to be built like a tank . . . I want it strong enough to be be able to support the entire weight of the back of my Belvedere on the frame . . . WAIT - It WILL have to do just that ! ! ! ( smile ) I'd rather over build it than under build it . . . My neighbor helped me mill 50/1000 off a 1" tube to make it work for me as an alignment tool ( I don't have a lathe - yet )

Talking about big MEATS on the back I've got just over 16" back there . . . so it breaks down to this ( if my math is right )
16" = 406
15" = 380 ( give an extra 1/2 clearance )
14" = 355 ( give an extra inch clearance )

Think CarnalSupply told me that 335 were the biggest ones he could find . . . I haven't started looking yet . . .
 
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holy rubber gods khan, a 355 is UGE so big the H fell off. you wont be lacking traction thats for sure. its gonna look awesome.
 
You gonna run 17" wheels?

If so...
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=44R7PXTQ&tab=Sizes

Bit harder to find something in same basic size for an 18" wheel that's less than $350 each...too much for me to spend on a tire that might last 5000 miles.

Something else to consider is availability...not just now, but in the future. You want to choose a tire that more than one manufacturer makes, and if possible, a size that came on an OEM vehicle. This ensures that you can still get tires beyond just next year if someone decides to discontinue it.

I'm leaning toward a 295/45r18 for general use.
 
Well, this knucklehead really enjoys all the camaraderie that this site has to offer - and the wealth of knowledge that comes along with it too.

Well, I think I've got a tentative plan for how to build this thing . . . and it's going to be built like a tank . . . I want it strong enough to be be able to support the entire weight of the back of my Belvedere on the frame . . . WAIT - It WILL have to do just that ! ! ! ( smile ) I'd rather over build it than under build it . . . My neighbor helped me mill 50/1000 off a 1" tube to make it work for me as an alignment tool ( I don't have a lathe - yet )

Talking about big MEATS on the back I've got just over 16" back there . . . so it breaks down to this ( if my math is right )
16" = 406
15" = 380 ( give an extra 1/2 clearance )
14" = 355 ( give an extra inch clearance )

Think CarnalSupply told me that 335 were the biggest ones he could find . . . I haven't started looking yet . . .

HAHA...16" now that will have some stick....I think if you plan to use that meat you may want to change plans and go to a 4 link instead!
 
Wow, Checkin in on your progress is always fun there King khan, soon that tank strong machine will have a life of its own! Be careful my friend.. lol :)
 
More progress on the rear spring relocation brackets . . . I think . . .

Getting the pieces cut and fit into place - where they need to go - and working around all the brackets . . .

Here's what I've gotten so far - first, I took apart the tack-welds to give me access to inside the frame rail when they get into place . . .
Darn, in order to get my work done I had to cut off all my doodles . . . but here's the cut rail . . .

sm_rearsrbracket12.jpg

Sorry for the blurry pic -there is a frame connected to the frame up front that is already doubled metal . . .

sm_rearsrbracket13.jpg

So I cut the new piece to allow it to fit with the doubled metal and allow me to weld to it - worked out very well . . .

sm_rearsrbracket14.jpg

Here's a quick picture of the way it'll go in . . .

sm_rearsrbracket15.jpg

What I can do now is tack it in place, and then drop it out - that will allow me to weld it on a more flat surface ( I need all the help I can get with this welding ) and trying to weld it in place, in those tight spaces would not be very easy ( for me ). Then after it's done being welded, I can slip it back up in pace, align the tubes with my alignment shaft, and then tack it to the frame, weld up the connections on the inside, add a couple more gussets, then weld the cap in place, and then get over to the driver side and start the process all over again . . .

Remember . . . draw the patterns on the other pieces BEFORE welding them into place ! ! ! ( it would make my life easier )

- - - Updated - - -

I finished doing what you're about to do a couple months ago...virtually the exact same steps. I didn't cap mine though - just cut the frame rail for movement and reinforced it w/ some thicker mat'l.

I had my spare tire well out when I drilled my holes, though...how are you planning on doing that?

What shackles are you planning on running? Note how you plan to install them since there's not much room that high. There's def a reason why most you see are simply drilled lower on the rail where it's easily accessible...

Sent some PMs back and forth with Herr_Poopschitz . . . my plans were to use the original shackles on the car, and I've been focusing on the install of the new parts, to which he pointed out a little "error" in my thinking. The stock shackles are welded together, and with the limited space that I've got to work with, I will not be able to get them installed if I leave the original frame holding the tube and the spare tire well . . . didn't think that one through very well ! ! !

Thanks for the assistance Herr_Poopschitz . . . guess I'll be either cutting out part of the original frame, or the spare tire well, or getting a shackle that will allow me to run a bolt through the original tube to connect the top part of the shackle. Funny how I overlooked that . . . but it sure would have made it self apparent when I did try and install them ! ! ! LMAO
 
Next step - tacked and ready to weld . . .

Got everything lined up, and looking good, so I tacked it and pulled it out for welding ( not Fer Racin' )

Here's where I am with it . . .

sm_rearsrbracket16.jpg

Now to get it all welded, and back in place, trued up and aligned and get it tacked and welded permanently ! !

We'll see how that goes tomorrow . . .
 
Welding up the rear bracket . . .

Got started welding up the rear bracket and getting the frame rail put back together . . . here's the progress . . .

Got the tube welded in place . . . little easier welding ( for me ) on a level surface like this . . .

sm_rearsrwelding1.jpg

Alright . . . someone snuck into my shop and and welded this up while I wasn't looking . . .

sm_rearsrwelding2.jpg

This bracket that was cut away because it was in the way . . .

sm_rearsrbracket4.jpg

Got re-welded in and connected to the new frame . . . really happy with how this turned out . . .

sm_rearsrwelding3.jpg

And this part that had to get removed because it was also in the way . . .

sm_rearsrbracket1.jpg

Has been reattached as a little gusset to add a little extra strength . . .

sm_rearsrwelding4.jpg

Still working on the welding - and still need to get the cap welded into the new bracket . . . but all seems to be going well . . .
 
Looking good bud!, Im sure when your done you'll grind the welds down and dress it up... Your gusset would be a improved strength, best way to go to make it sturdy!
 
Cap welded in place . . .

Got the cap of the new frame for the Spring Relocation welded in place . . . here's a picture . . .

sm_rearsrwelding5.jpg

This will allow me to keep the spring shackle in the same location as originally on the car, even after moving them in 3 inches . . . and not raise the back of the car up in the air any as a result of the relocation.

Now, if I was a better welder, I'd be about done . . . but I've got a LOAD of grinding to do now . . .
( how do I get up into these tight, confined areas and grind the welds - my 4 1/2" angle grinder SURE wont' fit up there ? ? )
 
I use a hand held air grinder with a 2 in disk, works ok but slower then your 4 and a half.. Gets me to places i cant with the same...
 
They make a wheel that looks exactly like your 2 inch cutoff wheels that is about a 1/4 thick, it works great for grinding welds down and will get you into tight spots (used with a 1/4 die grinder). You could also use a rotary file but I hate using them (nasty sharp shavings).
 
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