My 1978 Dodge Monaco 4 door sedan.

[Nxcoupe]

Something isn't right. But then you know that.

 

[Gary P]

For sure. I understand and appreciate your input. Thank you. I'm going to go ahead and say that you're absolutely right, getting a timing light is on my shopping list but I do feel that it is futile at this stage, because feeling/hearing the car chugging and struggling as I twist the diz, the timing light will only put the diz where I have it right now, or thereabouts, which is the drivable area of rotation.

So

My concerns are these vacuum lines, the lack of instructions from Mancini as to where to hook the "UFO" shaped vacuum advance thingy on the side of the diz - there are three possibly inputs on the carb. I guess I have to figure that out first.

Also, as pictured previously, I do have a rebuilt Carter 2bbl pre Lean Burn carb, and I'm wondering if I should go ahead and put this on, and also permanently remove the LB air cleaner and all of its gubbins, for a simpler one. But then my thoughts do go back to vacuum lines.

I wish Uncle Tony was here..

 

[Nxcoupe]

The vacuum advance line will have no vacuum at idle, and will pull vacuum as you open the throttle. Just put your finger over it and test each one. Make sure you plug any open vacuum lines.

 

[Gary P]

Done! Changed the carb out for the pre-Lean Burn one too.

Starts but won't idle, dies, runs rough.

My fear before I started messing with all this was to have my dream car sitting not running.

Well, here I am. I should just leave well enough alone. Car wont run and drive and I have no idea what can be done about it. I guess that's it then.

 

[Kern Dog]

When I get frustrated, my diagnosing skills diminish. Things that are simple sometimes get by me when normally I would see them. You may have something as simple as a loose spark plug wire, a cracked or disconnected vacuum line, a defective part that looks okay or a combiantion of all of those things. I have been bailed out by members here when I was temporarily out of my min d on a problem.
1WildR/T AKA Randy has stepped in to help on numerous occasions. ElDubb 440 gave some excellent advice when I replaced the entire front structure in my Jigsaw Charger. Diagnosing from afar can be difficult though.
Rough idle and stalling is often a vacuum leak issue.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Done! Changed the carb out for the pre-Lean Burn one too.

Starts but won't idle, dies, runs rough.

My fear before I started messing with all this was to have my dream car sitting not running.

Well, here I am. I should just leave well enough alone. Car wont run and drive and I have no idea what can be done about it. I guess that's it then.

You are operating outside your skillset and introducing too many variables, and skipping steps. That usually leads to frustration and a non functioning car.
1 get a timing light.
2 search for a firing order for a 318 and make sure all the cylinders are connected in the proper order on the cap. Remember it goes in counterclockwise rotation.
3 Check your reluctor to pick up gap with a brass feeler gauge to verify that is correct.
4 adjust carb idle mixture screws and base idle screw to achieve an idle.

It's that simple. Any nipples on the carb or open vacuum lines need to be plugged.
Did you put a new carb gasket on when you swapped carbs? Was the carb a fresh rebuild? If not, then you've just put another unknown into your equation.
We are willing to help, but when you go off the reservation, you're on your own.

 

[Gary P]

Thanks guys. I sure am frustrated. I've spent $400 and three evenings and I can't drive the car. All of my friends are VW people and have no experience with a 318 V8 and especially the Lean Burn, so I can't call on anyone. So I have to figure this one out with the help of anyone kind enough to post on my thread. A better mindset is now here, and I'm ready to learn.

Firing order confirmed. New plugs (OE Champion) gapped, new plug wires installed correctly. Reluctor gapped to Mancini's spec. The replacement Carb is a Carter 2bbl with a fresh rebuild, all the gaskets are done and is as clean as a whistle. I've nipped-up all the screws and paid attention to the throttle shaft as I know vacuum leaks appear there too.

So...

Tomorrow morning, I'll plug up all the vacuum lines, except the one from the Diz, into the carb.

The Diz hold-down clamp is loosened so I can turn the Diz and find the sweet spot.

A timing light will be purchased first thing in the morning.

Am I correct to screw both idle and mixture screws all the way in until they bottom out, and then back both off one whole turn, as a starting point?

When I look down into the carb, it's super clean, and if I blip the throttle, it jets fuel equally, so that's good.

The main issue here, is physical - I can't start the car, keep it running, then exit the car and get to the engine bay to see/hear/feel before the engine quits.

Thank you in advance fella's. Apologies for my can't-do attitude.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Thanks guys. I sure am frustrated. I've spent $400 and three evenings and I can't drive the car. All of my friends are VW people and have no experience with a 318 V8 and especially the Lean Burn, so I can't call on anyone. So I have to figure this one out with the help of anyone kind enough to post on my thread. A better mindset is now here, and I'm ready to learn.

Firing order confirmed. New plugs (OE Champion) gapped, new plug wires installed correctly. Reluctor gapped to Mancini's spec. The replacement Carb is a Carter 2bbl with a fresh rebuild, all the gaskets are done and is as clean as a whistle. I've nipped-up all the screws and paid attention to the throttle shaft as I know vacuum leaks appear there too.

So...

Tomorrow morning, I'll plug up all the vacuum lines, except the one from the Diz, into the carb.

The Diz hold-down clamp is loosened so I can turn the Diz and find the sweet spot.

A timing light will be purchased first thing in the morning.

Am I correct to screw both idle and mixture screws all the way in until they bottom out, and then back both off one whole turn, as a starting point?

When I look down into the carb, it's super clean, and if I blip the throttle, it jets fuel equally, so that's good.

The main issue here, is physical - I can't start the car, keep it running, then exit the car and get to the engine bay to see/hear/feel before the engine quits.

Thank you in advance fella's. Apologies for my can't-do attitude.

All good things.
No, the idle Mixture Screws, you screw in gently until they seat, DO NOT TORQUE THESE DOWN, just gently until it stops, then back out 1.5 turns. IDLE SCREW, turn this screw in until the car will idle. There is no set specification for how many turns, you just screw it in until the car idles, and you may have to turn it outwards as you set timing and get your mixture screws set. Timing first!! I suspect it is way off and it needs to have the hold down snug in order to ground the distributor for everything to run correctly. What did you gap the plugs at?

 

[Kern Dog]

3 Check your reluctor to pick up gap with a brass feeler gauge to verify that is correct.

This is important.
If the distributor was simply pulled from the box and installed, you don't know for sure that the air gap is set properly.
You have to use a brass feeler gauge because you're measuring in between a magnet and a reluctor. Regular steel feeler gauges will give a false reading. The spec is .008". My distributor had a tendency to loosen up and allow the air gap to spread. They will run with the gap wider but they won't run well.

 

[Gary P]

Hello Nxcoupe my man!

I can't remember the gaps on the plugs but it was whatever Mancini suggested in the instructions - I made sure to do that. Same with the reluctor gap, all stuff that takes a second but is more important than one realizes.

I felt the idle/mixture screws were made from something very soft - magnesium or aluminum maybe - and was a little nervous to screw those in let alone horse them up, so I agree with you there for sure.

Standing at the front of the vehicle, is the Idle Screw the left one or the right one on a Carter 2bbl? I will go google that now.

The fuel that is jetting into the carb is crystal clear. Many times I've been messing around with old VW's the fuel has been discolored from rusty lines/tank/dead fuel filter. Here, I know I'm getting fuel and clean fuel so that's great too.

You'll be pleased with your student - I ran out and bought these...

Now I can start the car while standing next to the engine.

Early start tomorrow morning to beat the heat. I'm going to give it my very best shot.

 

[Nxcoupe]

This is important.
If the distributor was simply pulled from the box and installed, you don't know for sure that the air gap is set properly.
You have to use a brass feeler gauge because you're measuring in between a magnet and a reluctor. Regular steel feeler gauges will give a false reading. The spec is .008". My distributor had a tendency to loosen up and allow the air gap to spread. They will run with the gap wider but they won't run well.

This is VERY IMPORTANT, it has to be checked with a BRASS feeler gauge which is difficult to find. If you used a steel one to check gap, it will not be correct.
Post a pic of your carb from the front view.

Nice timing light.

 

[Kern Dog]

Hello Nxcoupe my man!

I can't remember the gaps on the plugs but it was whatever Mancini suggested in the instructions - I made sure to do that. Same with the reluctor gap, all stuff that takes a second but is more important than one realizes.

I felt the idle/mixture screws were made from something very soft - magnesium or aluminum maybe - and was a little nervous to screw those in let alone horse them up, so I agree with you there for sure.

Standing at the front of the vehicle, is the Idle Screw the left one or the right one on a Carter 2bbl? I will go google that now.

The fuel that is jetting into the carb is crystal clear. Many times I've been messing around with old VW's the fuel has been discolored from rusty lines/tank/dead fuel filter. Here, I know I'm getting fuel and clean fuel so that's great too.

You'll be pleased with your student - I ran out and bought these...
View attachment 1313933

Now I can start the car while standing next to the engine.

Early start tomorrow morning to beat the heat. I'm going to give it my very best shot.

If you want to start the engine in an even simpler way, turn the key to the RUN position, take a screwdriver and lay the edge across these two terminals on the starter relay:

This will engage the starter. Once the engine runs, pull the screwdriver off.

 

[Gary P]

If you want to start the engine in an even simpler way, turn the key to the RUN position, take a screwdriver and lay the edge across these two terminals on the starter relay:

View attachment 1313940

This will engage the starter. Once the engine runs, pull the screwdriver off.

I'm very glad I know this. I have my remote switch now but I am very grateful to know the back-up method! Thank you sir!

 

[Don Frelier]

I agree with checking the reluctor gap. 3 thickness of standard copy paper always worked for me. Your comment that you had very little timing adjustment before it fell apart suggests that's a possibility.

If you want to start the engine in an even simpler way, turn the key to the RUN position, take a screwdriver and lay the edge across these two terminals on the starter relay:

View attachment 1313940

This will engage the starter. Once the engine runs, pull the screwdriver off.

Not the brown wire that the neutral safety.
Yellow and battery.


A 318 distributor rotates clockwise, maybe nxcoupe was thinking of a big block.

 

[Gary P]

Thanks fella's - I love and appreciate that you are all taking the time to help me.

I DID use steel feeler gauges. Nag-damn it where am I going to find brass ones on a Sunday morning? Great info about the three sheets of copy paper though Don, that's legendary!

So I found this picture on Mikes Carburetor Parts website.

*Question: bottom left of the picture, where it's labeled "to vacuum source" - does that go to the vacuum advance canister nipple on the new distributor?

And here's my carb from the front

To the right side a little

To the left side a little

 

[Nxcoupe]

I agree with checking the reluctor gap. 3 thickness of standard copy paper always worked for me. Your comment that you had very little timing adjustment before it fell apart suggests that's a possibility.

Not the brown wire that the neutral safety.
Yellow and battery.


A 318 distributor rotates clockwise, maybe nxcoupe was thinking of a big block.

Yup. I have a BB brain. No, that stands for big block. Lol. Thanks!

 

[Nxcoupe]

Thanks fella's - I love and appreciate that you are all taking the time to help me.

I DID use steel feeler gauges. Nag-damn it where am I going to find brass ones on a Sunday morning? Great info about the three sheets of copy paper though Don, that's legendary!

So I found this picture on Mikes Carburetor Parts website.

*Question: bottom left of the picture, where it's labeled "to vacuum source" - does that go to the vacuum advance canister nipple on the new distributor?

View attachment 1313946

And here's my carb from the front
View attachment 1313943

To the right side a little
View attachment 1313944

To the left side a little

View attachment 1313945

See that nipple next to the choke rod in the last picture? Why is that not capped off?
No, that is showing the hose for the chike pull off. It should go to the base of the carb to a manifold vacuum source.
I can't see the idle screw so it must be on the back driver's side of the carb.

 

[Gary P]

See that nipple next to the choke rod in the last picture? Why is that not capped off?
No, that is showing the hose for the chike pull off. It should go to the base of the carb to a manifold vacuum source.
I can't see the idle screw so it must be on the back driver's side of the carb.

Ok, I can cap that off. On my Lean Burn carb there's some kind of electronic thing mounted to that - it's more a shaft than a nipple. But I'll cap that sumbitch anyways.

So where would a vacuum hose from the distributor vacuum advance canister go on the carb?

If you see the big brass fuel inlet, then look below, there are two screws, spring-backed ones below left and below right - are these the mixture and idle screws?

 

[Gary P]

I found these pics. There's not much straight forward information out there, it's very complicated and requires a major search just for a simple thing like "what are these?" - but here's one answer, the screws are both mixtures...

and it looks like there's another screw for idle over by the vacuum thingamijig...

So, I'm going to cap everything off, hopefully get the Vacuum advance diz attached to something that makes sense, add the remote starter to the mix, try and get it to idle, adjust the timing (to what I don't know) and then....ummmm....yeah I have no clue what I'm doing here.

 

[HawkRod]

Gary,

I agree with the others about the timing. Getting your timing set right is critical to the performance of your car. As already mentioned, 10 degrees advance is a great place to start. Static timing needs to be with the vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged (this is the small rubber hose that goes to the vacuum pot on the side of the distributor). Maybe there is a member or a friend locally who can loan you a timing light?

After doing that, plugging in a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source (should read in the neighborhood of 15 for your car when idling). Then slowly turn in your idle mixture screws in until the engine starts working noticeably worse and the vacuum reading drops. Now reverse and turn the screw out just until you achieve the highest vacuum reading you can get. Now repeat for the other screw. Now repeat again for both of them.

The above is far from an ideal tune, but it should get you started.

You are doing great and should be proud you replaced a distributor and got the car running. It means you were paying attention!

Good Luck!