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My $300 a month budget 69 RR project (AKA, Wholly crap, what did I get myself into)

I don't see how i could stay out of that one if it were mine! That sounds mean and i do hope you find the gremlin keeping you out of it, All the work and it seems there is always a problem somewhere when its buttoned up to hit the streets, that was a beauty to me when you started... Great ride for sure!!! :)

Thanks Ron, I've been driving her a little, but the throwout being issue is annoying to the extent that I want it fixed before I put any serious miles on her.
 
OK... I found the only store in the greater Tampa Bay area that carries Hog Rings... a CarQuest 30 miles away had 400 of them. I bought 100....at the end of the job I had 1 left! All total I think I used 199 to do the job.

I just put the seats in the car and they look great! Only thing I would do different is the padding across the top of the upper seat is a little lumpy. I may try to massage it out, but all-in-all I'm very happy. I'll post pics of them installed later today.

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looks pretty good! lay the seat in the sun and that should smooth out.
 
Nice job! I have to recover my seats as well, although I realized that I do not have the padding that I need. It costs around $175 per seat (bench front and back). Ouch!!!
 
Nice job! I have to recover my seats as well, although I realized that I do not have the padding that I need. It costs around $175 per seat (bench front and back). Ouch!!!

Hawk, for the rear seats, you could probably buy all the stuff for half that from a local upholstery supply shop. There is nothing special about what comes in the kit (although I did pay the $175 myself)

Burlap, muslin, cotton, hd foam and some listing wire. I haven't tried to price it individually but I have a hard time believing that those items would run over $90.

- - - Updated - - -

Ok I take it back, I just priced from a local shops website and it came out to $140. Although you would get enough burlap and muslin to do both front and rear for that price... Might be able to do front and back for $210ish? Better than $350. It was good having the kit the first time out, but I would buy from upholstery shop if/when doing it again now that I see there is really nothing magical in the kit (I hate when there is nothing magical in the kit).
 
I hope you can work out the lumps, To look at it,,, it looks comfortable and the design or lay out of the material looks good, and i love black interior i want black with white accents when i get that far, but i just may go all black, i love it in my 73!!!
 
Here's a finished shot I took from my website... the pic is a little small, I'll replace it with a better one later tonight.
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looks pretty good considering who did it.......:poke::laughing6:
 
Thanks guys, I like how they came out.

I took the time this weekend and finally put in the 68 Charger bucket seats that I picked up a while back. They look good and the covers are in pretty good shape but the seat foam is dissintegrating. I'll be re-doing them soon as well.

Now if I could just find a non-AC RR dash in good condition....
 
If you need interior supplies check these guys out http://www.dltcorporation.com/ I bought hog rings by the pound from them for what the mail order houses were charging for a package of 10. The other suggestion I have is invest in a decent pair of hog ring pliers the crappy ones they included with the seat covers broke after about the 10th hog ring. Back bench seat and back are a breeze the buckets that is another story. back seat took about an hour and a half for both the buckets about 4 hours each and a lot of F-Bombs. LOL
 
Thanks for the link, im a long ways off from needing anything now but can use the information!!! :)
 
So after a month of being sick with the flu and then respiratory infection, I'm finally feeling well enough to get back under the car.

Today I'm replacing the old torsion bars with a new set of Mopar Performance .96 bars hoping to improve the ride height and front end stiffness.

I got the passenger side replaced and can already tell that it was the right move as the small (.88 I think) bar that I just took out has a pronounced bend to it, approx 1/4" off centerline.

Time to dig into the drivers side.

Also, for anyone reading in the future... I have no idea why the FSM doesn't mention the need to loosen the LCA pivot shaft nut when re-intallng new bars, but It was a must for me as the new LCA shaft bushing doesn't pivot freely, so the tension of the rubber bushing keeps the hex opening clocked up to high to slide the bar in... loosen the nut and presto..slides right in.
 
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