GearAddict
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip. I have some fiberglass mesh I was going to use, but window screen might actually work better
My $300 a month budget 69 RR project (AKA, Wholly crap, what did I get myself into)
- Thread starter GearAddict
- Start date
Propwash
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 9:42 PM
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2009
- Messages
- 9,710
- Reaction score
- 4,324
- Location
- Island of Misfit Toys
I hear ya on PG Scott. I'd never use them again either. Just like you and Basket mentioned, poor customer service. In my case, a piss poor product as well. Anyways, sorry to hear about the paint chip. A few layers of Scotch or 3M painters tape on the adjacent panels really helps with avoiding chips/scratches if you tossing on bumpers or panels on by yourself. Keep up the good work. Let us know how that plastic repair goes for you.
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
I haven't posted much progress lately, because unfortnately, I have made very little.
My plastic repair is "done" on th console and is sturdy, but after it dried it left a small sink line where the crack is. the repair is very strong, but if I paint over it now, it will still be noticable. I will have to think about how perfect I really want to get on it. I'll post pics when all is done.
I also spent 4 hours or so buffing out the console trim and plates. started with buffing wheel and compound, but ditched it fast and went to fine grade steel wool... works sooo much faster than the buffing compound and leaves no noticable marks, that can't be gotten at with the fine white buffing compound in the end. The chrome is pitted but for the moment I'm going for a 10ft resto on the console, so I'm ok with the pitting.
New MSD Dist and wires are in and working as expected. Need to look into cleaner routing for the wires or some new wire looms.
Took the car out to fill up the tank (completely filled for the first time since I've owned it) and I had 3 issues...
A. When filled up full, it immeadiately leaked out about 2 gallons (guess) onto the pavement. Looks like it's coming from the sending unit seal
B. The gas guage reads only 50% full (should be at least 3/4 +). I figure the sending unit/float is not positioned correctly or the float doesn't float
C. Car wouldn't start, had to get a jump. It's not charged right since I've owned it, but now that I'm trying to get it out on the road, this has got to be fixed.
I swapped out the alternator, thinking it was an easy fix, but went into overcharging state.
I've been focused on solving the charging issues over in this thread.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...aced-alternator-now-voltage-is-too-high-15-5v
My plastic repair is "done" on th console and is sturdy, but after it dried it left a small sink line where the crack is. the repair is very strong, but if I paint over it now, it will still be noticable. I will have to think about how perfect I really want to get on it. I'll post pics when all is done.
I also spent 4 hours or so buffing out the console trim and plates. started with buffing wheel and compound, but ditched it fast and went to fine grade steel wool... works sooo much faster than the buffing compound and leaves no noticable marks, that can't be gotten at with the fine white buffing compound in the end. The chrome is pitted but for the moment I'm going for a 10ft resto on the console, so I'm ok with the pitting.
New MSD Dist and wires are in and working as expected. Need to look into cleaner routing for the wires or some new wire looms.
Took the car out to fill up the tank (completely filled for the first time since I've owned it) and I had 3 issues...
A. When filled up full, it immeadiately leaked out about 2 gallons (guess) onto the pavement. Looks like it's coming from the sending unit seal
B. The gas guage reads only 50% full (should be at least 3/4 +). I figure the sending unit/float is not positioned correctly or the float doesn't float
C. Car wouldn't start, had to get a jump. It's not charged right since I've owned it, but now that I'm trying to get it out on the road, this has got to be fixed.
I swapped out the alternator, thinking it was an easy fix, but went into overcharging state.
I've been focused on solving the charging issues over in this thread.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...aced-alternator-now-voltage-is-too-high-15-5v
62 Dart Convertible
Well-Known Member
Great thread mate, I really enjoyed the read, loads of helpful information you have shared too.
Is your alternator/voltage regulator issue sorted yet?
I'm keenly awaiting to hear your results when you get the exhaust re-done too!
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
Thanks Dart, glad your enjoying it.
I have not gotten the charging issue solved, still chargin at 15v... I spent a little more time looking at it, but I decided I just needed to step away from it for a few days to clear my head. I'll be back at it this weekend.
I hear ya about the exhaust, I want it done now! but I have to get the charging issue solved first.
Going strong.
62 Dart Convertible
Well-Known Member
Good luck getting the electrics sorted - they can be a bitch!
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
Overcharging problem solved! Thanks to Daredevil for this link http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml Great read and turned out to be the solution to my woes.
Also big thanks to nm9stheham for ll of the troubleshooting help along with a bunch of other members.
In a nutshell... The Ron Francis kit I have installed uses the chevy/ford style VR, however, it was not wired to take advantage of remote voltage sensing and was drawng from the ignition power similar to the way the mopar VR does.... I rewired it to sense the voltage from a remote power stud I had on my firewall instead of the ignition and presto, problem solved. Everything now reads 14.3 - 14.4v
Now I can drive it to the exhaust shop without worrying about getting stranded.
Also big thanks to nm9stheham for ll of the troubleshooting help along with a bunch of other members.
In a nutshell... The Ron Francis kit I have installed uses the chevy/ford style VR, however, it was not wired to take advantage of remote voltage sensing and was drawng from the ignition power similar to the way the mopar VR does.... I rewired it to sense the voltage from a remote power stud I had on my firewall instead of the ignition and presto, problem solved. Everything now reads 14.3 - 14.4v
Now I can drive it to the exhaust shop without worrying about getting stranded.
62 Dart Convertible
Well-Known Member
Well done! :VB toast:
Basket case
Well-Known Member
and there was dancing in the streets!!! glad you found it.
MT_Mopar
Well-Known Member
Good deal Scott, some of those electrical problems can be a PITA to solve. I love it when the logical solution to the problem is discovered... like your remote sensing VR. Keep up the good work!
What kind of exhaust are you putting on the car?
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, PITA is right.
John, I'm converting from flow masters with down turned tips, to full 2.5" exhaust all the way out to the rear bumper with Dynomax mufflers and I'm adding an h-pipe.
John, I'm converting from flow masters with down turned tips, to full 2.5" exhaust all the way out to the rear bumper with Dynomax mufflers and I'm adding an h-pipe.
MT_Mopar
Well-Known Member
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
Dropped the RR off at the exhaust shop this afternoon... should have her back tomorrow around noon!
Nice! It is always exciting to hear a car with a new exhaust system - makes it seem like a different car!
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
Thanks Hawk... I'm looking forward to hearing the difference.
I was delayed in getting her back from the shop as we had to solve a gas leak as the sending unit seal before thy could start welding (thank god they noticed it!). Should be all wrapped up this morning and I will be going after work to pick her up.
It's been interesting after not driving her for 2 years and "fixing" a bunch of things in the garage all the things I'm finding out now that I have her on the street. I know that's an obvious statement, but nonetheless, I've learned of a new host of issues to tackle.
Most notable items to resolve:
1. My A-833 is either shot or set-up really badly or both :angryfire: This was something I didn't expect. There's multiple issues going on, clutch rubing intermittently while the pedal is down sitting at a light, grinds going into reverse (I knew this when I bought it) now grinding into first (just started). Anyway, while I've owned a few sticks over the years, I've never really done any work to them as most of my project cars were automatics. I will start reading up and asking questions of the fine folks here in the very near future.
2. Wiper motor need to be replaced.. worked fine in my garage, never had to use it on the road. It started pouring (summertime in Florida) on my way to the exhaust shop, hit the wiper switch and.........nothing.
After poking around with the wiring under the dash on the side of the road for 20 mins, it occured to me that the motor might be frozen, so I hit it with a hammer a couple times and presto! Started working. Anyway, new/used motor in my future or take a stab at reduilding it myself.
3. Tosion bars need to be replaced... I got cute and convinced myself they were probably fine when I did the suspension... after driving it for a while now, I can say they are too spongy (I need to check the ride height that the shop set first and make sure they didn't set too low). good news is if they have to be replaced, I now know exactly how it is done, have the tools to do it and can do it in a few hours.
4. Still leaking from somewhere... water getting into the car. I sealed up a few small rust spots around the windsheild with RTV until I can get to doing it right, but there's still something going on and I haven't figured out where it's coming from.. I will have to do another hose test.
5. Cam is wayyyy to agressive for my taste... this is not a problem that needs attention the way that the others above do, but it is killing a touch of the enjoyment of the car. I've never run a cam this big (.509 Purple shaft) in a car before and while fun to wind it up to 5-6K RPM, in reallity I'm not ever intending to race it. I'd rather it be a little torquier down low with good response off the line and smoother idle quality (I don't mind a little chop, but this thing rough). I'm thinking a cam swap is inexpensive overall, just time consuming. So this will probably be my next big item after the tranny issues are resolved.
It's funny how much you have to re-learn about what to expect from the big cam. After years of feeling like I knew what to look for, listen for and dial in to maintain a sound running reliable V8, I now feel lost. I'm constantly worried the motor is on the verge of breakdown until I hit 2.5K-6K RPM and then I go WOW this things runs great!
I was delayed in getting her back from the shop as we had to solve a gas leak as the sending unit seal before thy could start welding (thank god they noticed it!). Should be all wrapped up this morning and I will be going after work to pick her up.
It's been interesting after not driving her for 2 years and "fixing" a bunch of things in the garage all the things I'm finding out now that I have her on the street. I know that's an obvious statement, but nonetheless, I've learned of a new host of issues to tackle.
Most notable items to resolve:
1. My A-833 is either shot or set-up really badly or both :angryfire: This was something I didn't expect. There's multiple issues going on, clutch rubing intermittently while the pedal is down sitting at a light, grinds going into reverse (I knew this when I bought it) now grinding into first (just started). Anyway, while I've owned a few sticks over the years, I've never really done any work to them as most of my project cars were automatics. I will start reading up and asking questions of the fine folks here in the very near future.
2. Wiper motor need to be replaced.. worked fine in my garage, never had to use it on the road. It started pouring (summertime in Florida) on my way to the exhaust shop, hit the wiper switch and.........nothing.
After poking around with the wiring under the dash on the side of the road for 20 mins, it occured to me that the motor might be frozen, so I hit it with a hammer a couple times and presto! Started working. Anyway, new/used motor in my future or take a stab at reduilding it myself.
3. Tosion bars need to be replaced... I got cute and convinced myself they were probably fine when I did the suspension... after driving it for a while now, I can say they are too spongy (I need to check the ride height that the shop set first and make sure they didn't set too low). good news is if they have to be replaced, I now know exactly how it is done, have the tools to do it and can do it in a few hours.
4. Still leaking from somewhere... water getting into the car. I sealed up a few small rust spots around the windsheild with RTV until I can get to doing it right, but there's still something going on and I haven't figured out where it's coming from.. I will have to do another hose test.
5. Cam is wayyyy to agressive for my taste... this is not a problem that needs attention the way that the others above do, but it is killing a touch of the enjoyment of the car. I've never run a cam this big (.509 Purple shaft) in a car before and while fun to wind it up to 5-6K RPM, in reallity I'm not ever intending to race it. I'd rather it be a little torquier down low with good response off the line and smoother idle quality (I don't mind a little chop, but this thing rough). I'm thinking a cam swap is inexpensive overall, just time consuming. So this will probably be my next big item after the tranny issues are resolved.
It's funny how much you have to re-learn about what to expect from the big cam. After years of feeling like I knew what to look for, listen for and dial in to maintain a sound running reliable V8, I now feel lost. I'm constantly worried the motor is on the verge of breakdown until I hit 2.5K-6K RPM and then I go WOW this things runs great!
Basket case
Well-Known Member
just in case you didn't know, reverse isn't synchronized, so some gear grinding is expected if you put it in too quickly
water leak may be the wiper pivot seals dried up
wiper motor may need the ground cleaned
water leak may be the wiper pivot seals dried up
wiper motor may need the ground cleaned
Hey Scott,
Nice to hear you got your fuel leak addressed. I will again (briefly) get on my soap box: If you don't have a fire extinguisher in the car, GO OUT AND BUY ONE NOW!!! It is cheap insurance... :icon_thumright:
OK, off the box: First, with your transmission woes: Trust me, I feel your pain, and mine isn't even drivable yet. The worst part is, mine WAS OK and I screwed it up because of a dumb mistake (I should have known better...). There are some nice kits out there. If you intend to drive your car a lot on the highway, maybe look into an overdrive. Passon Performance has a kit that lets you rebuild your trans into a "Hemi" 18 spline overdrive unit. Might be where I go with my transmission soon.
As far as some of the other problems: I agree with Basket Case, in many cases things might be simple fixes. It seems to be human nature to immediately assume the complex fixes, and very often the fixes are simple. It always makes sense to start looking at the simple things to rule them out. Especially with electrical gremlins, grounds are almost always one of the first things to check. I can't tell you how many times I have kicked myself after finding the simple problem after hours of chasing complex stuff...
Hang in there and work out the issues to get the car "sorted" as Ed from Wheeler Dealers would say. You are in the home stretch!
Hawk
Nice to hear you got your fuel leak addressed. I will again (briefly) get on my soap box: If you don't have a fire extinguisher in the car, GO OUT AND BUY ONE NOW!!! It is cheap insurance... :icon_thumright:
OK, off the box: First, with your transmission woes: Trust me, I feel your pain, and mine isn't even drivable yet. The worst part is, mine WAS OK and I screwed it up because of a dumb mistake (I should have known better...). There are some nice kits out there. If you intend to drive your car a lot on the highway, maybe look into an overdrive. Passon Performance has a kit that lets you rebuild your trans into a "Hemi" 18 spline overdrive unit. Might be where I go with my transmission soon.
As far as some of the other problems: I agree with Basket Case, in many cases things might be simple fixes. It seems to be human nature to immediately assume the complex fixes, and very often the fixes are simple. It always makes sense to start looking at the simple things to rule them out. Especially with electrical gremlins, grounds are almost always one of the first things to check. I can't tell you how many times I have kicked myself after finding the simple problem after hours of chasing complex stuff...
Hang in there and work out the issues to get the car "sorted" as Ed from Wheeler Dealers would say. You are in the home stretch!
Hawk
62 Dart Convertible
Well-Known Member
Scott, old cars are a test mate, and so far you keep passing!!
Can't wait to hear the results of your new exhaust...
Can't wait to hear the results of your new exhaust...
Similar threads
