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My $300 a month budget 69 RR project (AKA, Wholly crap, what did I get myself into)

Thanks MT, I finally got everything off and dissassembled. Had to use a BFH and pickle fork and swing at it like there's no tomorrow.

I broke down and had a local shop take out the bushings and sleeves from the UCA and LCA... they gouged the LCA while taking out the bushing sleeve... I'll have to debur it, hopefully the new ones will still go in ok... wish I had a mini ball hone that I could run through it though.

One question for everyone (I'll post over in the suspension forum as well). There were 2 small sleeves, 1 per side) on the UCA Bushings, that came off when we pressed the bushings out... never seen anything like that on an upper control arm. Anyone know what they are for? seems odd that they are only on one bushing and not the other.

Anyway, I'm getting down to where I can start to clean and paint parts and start getting everything back together... I can honestly say that I don't think anyone did any work on suspension in the cars 45 year life. I'll be very glad when it is done.
 
Thanks MT, I finally got everything off and dissassembled. Had to use a BFH and pickle fork and swing at it like there's no tomorrow.

I broke down and had a local shop take out the bushings and sleeves from the UCA and LCA... they gouged the LCA while taking out the bushing sleeve... I'll have to debur it, hopefully the new ones will still go in ok... wish I had a mini ball hone that I could run through it though.

One question for everyone (I'll post over in the suspension forum as well). There were 2 small sleeves, 1 per side) on the UCA Bushings, that came off when we pressed the bushings out... never seen anything like that on an upper control arm. Anyone know what they are for? seems odd that they are only on one bushing and not the other.

Anyway, I'm getting down to where I can start to clean and paint parts and start getting everything back together... I can honestly say that I don't think anyone did any work on suspension in the cars 45 year life. I'll be very glad when it is done.

I did the same thing on mine, had a shop remove and install the bushings - those things are in there tight!

Are you going to do the top shock tower bushings inside the fender well? I am going to do mine, PST does not have those in their kit, I have been looking around for some, I think summit has a couple of different brands, I am just not sure on which ones to get.
 
MT... That is a good question... I will have to open the box for my new shocks, but I believe that they come with the shocks? I think that's why you're not finding them at a vendor like PST.

I'm going from memory on when I replaced shocks on my Chevy's. I'll open my new shock boxes today and report back.

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Just ran out to the garage and checked... OE style rubber ones are included with my new shocks.

If you're not replacign your shocks, you might be able to find aftermarket poly ones from Energy Suspensions (probably what you are seeing on Summit?). I would think any type would be fine... They are a universal type design if I recall for any shock with shaft style mounting like is used on the B-Body (as opposed to a parrallel bushed type with a bolt through it, which is done on both top and bottom mounting of the shock on some cars).
 
I am thinking you are looking for one of these....

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...end/shock-bushing-inside-diameter-in/0-375-in

Bayonet style, .375" ID (this is standard shock shaft dia)... OD...not sure, you can go larger I think but want to make sure it's not too small. Length... might just be personal preference... the shocks usually have plenty of length on the threads for you to use tall ones... I think .625" is the stock height.
 
I am replace my front shocks, I need to look in my shock box and see if the bushings are there, they probably are, Duh is me.
 
No worries John...Happens to the best of us... Last time I bought a sway bar, I went and bought a nice set of end links not realizing that pretty much every new sway bar you buy comes with em.... Which by the way reminds me.....anybody need a set of end links?
 
One question for everyone (I'll post over in the suspension forum as well). There were 2 small sleeves, 1 per side) on the UCA Bushings, that came off when we pressed the bushings out... never seen anything like that on an upper control arm. Anyone know what they are for? seems odd that they are only on one bushing and not the other.

You referring to these Scott? Most folks don't even know about them:

$_57 (1).jpg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Upper-Control-Arm-Bushing-Hemi-440-383-340-Six-Pack-Plymouth-Dodge-/321394443449?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad49a04b9&vxp=mtr
 

That's it Will, thanks for the link... I also found them on Mancini last night... do you just press the bushing into both the UCA and the sleeve in 1 shot?

Do I need them? Not sure what purpose they serve considering it appears that they were used on on a small number of vehicles. Only thing I can think of is that they help to reduce deflection of the bushing under heavy cornering or braking. Looks like they may have been standard on the Police models... maybe a part of one of the option packages?

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Here's what Mancini says...

"THIS SLEEVE FITS OVER THE REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHING.

THE FACTORY TYPICALLY PLACED THIS SLEEVE OVER THE REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHING ON MANY B BODY STYLE CARS. THEY PRESSED IT ONTO THE REAR BUSHING TO PROVIDE A TIGHTER FIT. IT IS A PRESS FIT OF .003-.005 INCH."

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/bboupcoarmbu.html
 
Are they only on the 426 and HP model cars? If they are on all the models wouldn't there be a ton of slop without the bushing installed?
 
That's a good question MT... I'm starting to think that maybe Ma Mopar had a bad run of control arms, where the bushing hole was oversized and this was their patch?

you would think that they would be used on every car or none if they were that concerned about slop... unless it only became apperant under the weight of the biggest big block cars.... but then again, Mine was orginally a 383 and from the looks of the front suspension, I think the control arms were untouched in 45 years...but who ever really knows what a previous owner did.
 
I wouldn't say you need them. At that price, I wouldn't say I needed them anyways...lol I would take the same guess as you in thinking they had a tolerance issue with the bushing housing. How much is that bushing really going to accomplish? The only issue I ever see with the upper control arm bushings is the rubber tearing, rotting and cabbaging apart out of the bushings. Even with the rubber destroyed or falling apart out of the UCA bushings, i've never seen the housing that seats them fail in any manner at all.
 
I'm unreasonably excited to receive my newly refurbished manual steering box from UPS today! $245 with a $30 dollar core and free shipping... for $30 I will probably just hold onto my old one, especially since most places wanted $150+ for a core charge.

photo 1.jpg

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Oh and back on the bushing sleeve topic... they are referenced in the 69 Plymouth Service manual section 2-13 as being used on "Valiants with 10" brakes and Satellite police and taxi applications"
 
Thanks Capt...same to you, I've been following your project for a while now as well. Great stuff
 
I'm unreasonably excited to receive my newly refurbished manual steering box from UPS today! $245 with a $30 dollar core and free shipping... for $30 I will probably just hold onto my old one, especially since most places wanted $150+ for a core charge.

View attachment 186044

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Oh and back on the bushing sleeve topic... they are referenced in the 69 Plymouth Service manual section 2-13 as being used on "Valiants with 10" brakes and Satellite police and taxi applications"

Nice steering box you've got there!
 
Thanks John... It only took 4 months of searching to find one under my $300 budget... I was really happy to finally get one as it was the last piece to complete my steering/suspension rebuild.
 
Ok, weekend update... My wife took her camera away from me, so I'm a little thin on pics and progress was slowed by mother's day, tool mishaps and heat exhaustion (I hate Florida summers, more than I hated New England winters).

First..The good:

Got the upper and lower control arms painted, bushings and pivot arms installed. Upper control arms are installed with new cam bolts and upper balljoints mounted.

Also, got in a replacement brake hose bracket, that will need to be welded in. Donated by Basket Case...Thanks again! I owe that man a beer or 2.

Now...The bad:

I broke the Mancini UCA bushing install tool and had to cut the stud with my cutoff tool (which sliced it like butter, so at least that tool worked like it should). Luckily it happened on the last bushing which went on harder than the first 3 and the stud elongated while torquing by hand with an open ended wrench and a 18" breaker bar. I will call Mancini about this as, I don't think his should have happened with hand tools, especially since you're supposed to be able to put an air tool on this thing.

Also, the rubber was completely gone on both of the UCA bump stops. I was able to get one out easily, but the other had a rounded nut on it..bad angle to get a chisel or anything on it, so back to the cutoff tool, which I used to crosshatch the top piece that was remaining enough that I could hammer out the stud.

Had a shop take out the bushing sleeve in the LCA's and they nicked up the inside of the bushing hole (for lack of better engineering term). I was able to clean it up with a file and stone wheel with my die grinder. Since they did such a bad job, I called around for recommendations on where to go to, remove the Pivot arm sleeve, press in the LCA bushings and Pivot arms. Half the shops in town recommended NAPA's machine shop. Long story short, the did it for $40, 1 day turnaround and they look great.

The best news is, that I am finally at a point where I'm starting to install the new parts and doing less fighting with cutting, hacking and pounding of old parts (I still have to get the manual steering box out..which sounds like it will be loads of fun).

I am glad I am tackling this myself, but man what a pain in the ***.
 
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I hear you!

I have been working on my front suspension too. I guess anything that can turn the wheels and carry the weight of a big block has to be pretty stout!

Keep up the good work!

Hawk
 
Ok, so I have been without a camera for a few weeks, while my wife worked on a freelance photo job. Also, been through a rough run of stuff not going my way in the disassembly of the RR. Good news is that I'm back at it and things are starting to move.

It was clear that I needed to replace all of the brake lines as I found multiple kinks/pinches in both the front and rear lines, so I purchased a complete set from Right Stuff Detailing which included a shortened rear line with a small section to add the Prop valve.

Also needed new inner fender splash shields (the masticated rubber ones that allow access to the UCA cam bolts) as mine were torn or missing.

I needed a new Pitman arm, which was not included in the PST kit (not sure why)... mine was destroyed. Aslo a few replacement bolts and nuts as well as the shock bolts were hosed.

Work completed to date..

1. New front brake lines installed and rear line to prop valve... went in pretty easy no big issues.

2. Old Master Cylinder removed....man what a PIA! getting this out with the nuts on the inside of the firewall and very little room to work. Had to get my wife to use the air ratchet in the engine bay while I contorted into position under the dash... my wife was afraid of the air ratchet, but we got it done.

3. Pitman, Idler, center-link, tie-rods, sleeves all installed and greased....all pretty easy except the idler arm from PST had to be hammered into place and is in there TIGHT! so much that you can feel the resistance at the steering wheel for sure... I'm hoping this gets better after a little wear and some lube.. but might be an issue.

4. Right Stuff knuckles, caliper brackets and PST lower ball joint/steering arms assembled... no issues

5. Re-built LCA's installed... thing of beauty

6. Knuckle assemble mounted to upper and lower control arms.

7. Shocks installed... do this before bolting on the knuckle... Instructions say after, but sooooo much easier if you do it before and then compress the shock by raising the LCA with a jack.... otherwise you have to do the "zip-tie trick", which works great, but can be avoided.

8. Sway Bar installed... "Houston we have a problem"... sway bar looks great, mounts to K-member fine, end links mount up nicely....only problem.. Can't get the stinkin' radiator support that goes from the crossmember to the underside of the radiator support to bolt back up... the sway bar is in the way.

Now this has got me thinking... Is that support even needed?
A. It was not used on all year b bodies
B. It does not support the weight of the radiator.

Only thing I can think of is that it is used to prevent flex in the radiator support....how much flex is there? Anyway.. not sure what to do yet.. might fashion a new one to go around the sway bar.

9. Wheel bearings packed, and oil seals installed... Wheel bearings went in easy, oil seals were a different story. I bent the hell out of the first one trying to get it in with a small hammer and flat head screw driver. which meant I had to buy another one...but which one? Since I have no idea what rotors are being used... went to NAPA and told them the problem... tried 2 vehicles.. 69RR? No-go, wrong size. 76 Aspen...Bingo! same size...ever so slightly different on the seal design but the contacting dimensions were the same. Bought a seal driver from Harbor Freight, worked ok.

10. Dust Shields.... Warning to those that buy the RSD conversion kit... I had to file away some material on the dust shields to get them to fit..the steering arm bolts interfered... If they weren't on so tight, I might have been able to turn them 30 deg and not cut anything, but trimming a little material seemed easier.

11. Rotors installed, calipers mounted....pretty straight forward.

12. Torsion bars back in.. clips in place... I took the easy way out and didn't replace the dust boots... will have to do that in the future.

Here are some pics

IMG_8861 - 2014-05-26 at 07-36-30.jpgIMG_8862 - 2014-05-26 at 07-36-34.jpgIMG_8865 - 2014-05-26 at 07-36-51.jpgIMG_8867 - 2014-05-26 at 07-37-26.jpgIMG_8870 - 2014-05-26 at 07-38-01.jpgIMG_8851 - 2014-05-18 at 16-55-04.jpgIMG_8853 - 2014-05-18 at 16-55-14.jpgIMG_8854 - 2014-05-18 at 16-55-20.jpg
 
Nice work GearAddict!

I have the same disk brake upgrade. Did you install the anti-rattle rubber bands and clips on the brakes? Any pictures of how the bands go on the brake pads? I saw the anti-rattle stuff but haven't yet started to ponder how it fits.

...and yours looks a lot better since your is actually attached to a car!!! :yes:
 
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