• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

My charger restoration dream car

I put in the top rail weatherstrip. I remembered when I cleaned the chrome trim that it only had glue at the ends and at each corner so that is the only places that I put glue. There are some reference tabs so that I could line up the weatherstrip in the right places. My weatherstrip was just a little short so I glued the reference points and would slightly stretch the strip and attach it to the right spot. I fill that that was how it was designed and it seems to be where I need it.
IMG_1015.JPG

IMG_1017.JPG

For the screw that holds the front bottom strip I had to make my own hole in the correct spot to attach it.
IMG_1019.JPG
 
Looking good! Weatherstripping is kind of fun to put in too. What brand did you use? I used Metro and it was spot on. No screw holes on mine up front, the nose is glued to the jamb though.
 
Looking good! Weatherstripping is kind of fun to put in too. What brand did you use? I used Metro and it was spot on. No screw holes on mine up front, the nose is glued to the jamb though.
The weatherstripping was OER. I ordered all my weatherstripping through classic industries.
Thank you for the tip. I did not glue the nose to the jamb. It will be easy to take out the screw and tack it down.
 
I don't remember my door catches having any paint on them. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do to them? Should I paint them, leave them natural, or clear coat them. From what I have seen I haven't seen many that were painted.
68 door latch.jpg
 
For OEM correct, I do not know. But they were not painted from the factory. Mine kind of looked like a gold zinc finish showing in some spots. One way to get a natural look is to bead blast them and then hit them good with a steel brush that shines them up. Clear on top of that to maintain the steel look. On my Belvedere I zinc plated them on my patio. If you are familiar with electrolysis, it is similar. It is not the gold looking zinc but a silver finish, very durable and easy enough to do.

On these I just hit them with a brass brush and installed.

I
20170125_193926.jpg
 
On my GTX, the parts you have pictured are silver zinc plated (silver). I've got a bucket of stuff I'm going to take to the local plater here. He charges 150$ per batch. I've had him do a batch before and liked it better than painting. The piece that goes in the door I think did have some yellow zinc on it somewhere.
 
On my GTX, the parts you have pictured are silver zinc plated (silver). I've got a bucket of stuff I'm going to take to the local plater here. He charges 150$ per batch. I've had him do a batch before and liked it better than painting. The piece that goes in the door I think did have some yellow zinc on it somewhere.
For OEM correct, I do not know. But they were not painted from the factory. Mine kind of looked like a gold zinc finish showing in some spots. One way to get a natural look is to bead blast them and then hit them good with a steel brush that shines them up. Clear on top of that to maintain the steel look. On my Belvedere I zinc plated them on my patio. If you are familiar with electrolysis, it is similar. It is not the gold looking zinc but a silver finish, very durable and easy enough to do.

On these I just hit them with a brass brush and installed.

IView attachment 401106
Thank you both. That gives me some ideas to look into.
 
I got my gear shift out to take apart and refurbish. As I was disassembling it I fount that someone must have been slamming gears. The metal base of the shift handle was broken and bent.
gear shift.jpg

g shift.jpg

I figured that I could fix it strong enough for my use so I bent it back straight and welded it back together.
 
I just finished redoing my gearshift and it is ready to install. I'm assuming that the electrical switch still works.
finished shift.jpg
 
I've been checking everything with a battery or voltmeter before I install it to hopefully cut down on start up issues.
 
I have a voltmeter, I will go and check that now that I'm thinking of it.
Thanks.
 
I've been checking everything with a battery or voltmeter before I install it to hopefully cut down on start up issues.
I just checked it and the reverse switch does still work. Now I feel better about putting it back.
Remember that I am grateful for any tips or advise. I still do not know what I am doing. I am learning as I go and learning from everyone's threads.
 
The 3 ways to learn:
1. Learn by watching
2. Learn by doing
3. Learn by doing over.
I usually end up at #3
 
I installed my rear quarter windows. It is a good thing that I took a lot of pictures when disassembling but I always find out that I wish that I had took more. I put all of the nuts and fasteners close to the same position that I had on my pictures. The windows seem to roll well but I'm not sure I have them right until I set the door windows.
I installed the quarter trim and wind lace first. There is room for 4 fasteners and 4 clips on my trim but in my parts I only had 3 for each side. After studying my pictures it looks like that the factory only used 3 on each side so that is what I did.
q w install.jpg

q windlace.jpg

I did not have pictures of the rubber sleeves that went in the quarter window mounting screws but I finally figured out why my rebuild kit had peaces of rubber hose. These go in the window mounting holes around the mounting screws.
q w 3.jpg

q w 4.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'll be doing this soon. Post lots of pictures!
 
After installing the drivers side quarter window I found that when I rolled it all of the way down it would go down to far and and clunk inside the side of the car. I got to looking to find out why it would go down so far and try to figure how I can set the stops. I found that I was missing a block on the frame that the adjustable stop was supposed to hit.
Here is the block on the right side of the car.
q w 6.jpg

Here is the left side that was missing.
q w 7.jpg

I cut a couple pieces of rubber livestock pad and screwed these in that spot. Now I was able to adjust the adjustable stop to the correct height so my window would not fall below.
q w 8.jpg

q w 9.jpg
 
I worked on cleaning and repairing the wing windows today. After taking it all apart I buffed all of the chrome. I do have some small pits in the front frame support but after cleaning with steel wool and buffing they were hardly noticeable. I bought some 1/16" thick by 1 1/2" window setting tape from a glass shop so I could reset the vent window base because it was brittle and broken. It took some persuasion to get the vent window set back in the base with the tape in. I sprayed the tape with window cleaner to help it slide in smoother. I'm not sure this helped, because I didn't try it without it, but I felt like it did. The trick was installing the new vent window rubber weatherstripping.
q w 2.jpg

quarter  window.jpg

q w 3.jpg

q w 4.jpg

q w 5.jpg

I used a rubber mallet to help work the base back on.
q w 6.jpg

Trimming the extra setting tape off.
q w 7.jpg

q w 8.jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top