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My Coronet project

The 8 3/4 axles from Cass "Doctor Diff" will take about 3 more weeks to arriwe to Sweden, I will give you a phonecall immediately when they show up.
 
Had an hour or two to spend in the garage today and I painted the horns and found a new relay that looked at least 80 % correct, but the funktion is 100 % so it works for me.
I also wonder how the power feed works, I have one cable from the bulkhead, I assume it has 12 V when the horn button is pressed? I will take a power feed direct from the battery and connect it to the relay so the original cabel just trigger the circuit.
But how was it from the beginning, was there a relay on the 1970 model?

And I will also use the powerfeed from the battery to connect the lights by a relay to save the original wiring AND get a much better light!
 

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Looks fantastic to me, I was always one for in the "spirit" of original. Functionality over originality. Seriously, looks fantastic, can't wait till I'm close to where you are in your project.
 
He swede i should like meet you at Västeras 5 - 7 .07.2012



i bring beer and we make a BBQ
 
Hi Uli, I will be in Denmark 7/7 2012 on the Roskilde festival watching the Boss, but you are welcome to drop by when you passing for Vasteras on the fifth of july, I live just 5 min from the E6 and I assume you are taking the bridge over from Copenhagen?

By the way, I have no more excuse now, almost 95 % of all the parts I need is in my garage right now, the only thing missing is a craftsman that can put it together...
I will take some pictures for you, it is like christmas day, I just love those boxes :love4:
And thanks to Sven (68GTX4SPEED) who had a vent window frame for me, if you guys ever need a hard to find part, give Sven a call, he has a goldmine for a moparfreak!
 
Swede,

I love reading through your rebuild and sharing the experience with you. I too got burnt out and stepped away from the project for a while. Your posts have given me the inspiration to continue. The car looks great and cannot wait for your next update.
 
Thanks guys, I am getting ready for the big blast, just need a dry day so I can roll it out and blast of the rear and trunk, got almost every part I need to replace outer framerails, trunkfloor, QP etc. The only thing missing is a nice tail light panel, got a wanted ad in this forum.
After the blast it will not take so long time to cut out and weld in new metal, planning to buy a new gas tank too, will take down the old one and check it for rust. Hope to get one or two days in the shop this christmas, will post some pictures of the work later on.
 
Yes! The hardest working guy in Sweden spent the afternoon working on the dream, damn it was nice finally got the rusty floor out. When I removed the gas tank I looked inside it and it was half full, had to sifone 10 gallons out of it before I took it down, will probably buy a new one since it was pretty rusty like everything else...
The right QP was cut out and is was full of bondo. (And I will cut of the rest of it.)
The left one has been replaced by previous owner.
I still miss the tail light panel but I will probably solve it next week.
All the other parts are ready and I will start with the frame rails ASAP.

The 8 3/4 will be taken apart and I already have a new yukon nodular house with a 3,55 sure grip, will send the house to blasting and powder coating, new brakes and new HD leaf springs with new KYB shocks.

Had some real luck yesterday, a guys car broke outside my house, the exhaust fell to the ground, he bought a new one and I mounted it in 20 minutes, then he saw my project and it ended with he took all the front and rear bumper brackets and drove them to a blasting company and the will blast and paint them for me in exchange for my work with the exhaust!!

Wish you all a Happy New Year!!! And I promise you, next year I will drive my car!!!
 

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Took the rear end apart and found a 2.94 with a cone clutch, will keep it as a spare if the new one breaks...
Thinking about blasting and wire wheel the house and paint it at home, will save me USD 200, semi gloss black?
Need 6 new bolt for the leaf springs and shackles, anyone knows the lenght and type?
Anyone got a good picture of the spot welds on top of the kick back, where the trunk floor meets the floor under the rear seat?
 

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man i read your whole thread. it really makes me miss my 70 super bee,FC7 plum crazy purple, white interior, white C stripe,buckets console,383/727.regretfully,i sold it about 8 years ago. i have had a passion for the 70 coronets ever since i was little,i frickin love these cars. great thread,keep it comin, cant wait to see it done. you should build a bee clone with it, red/black interior, with the reverse C stripes in black, air grabber hood , the optional 1970 pedestal mount rear spoiler, hood pins and blacked out tail panel treatment and the super bee badging,exhaust tips, the torque thrusts (i saw one pic of a wheel,not sure of the brand) and blacked out grills.please dont paint the bumpers.just food for thought--that thing is going to look so badass. anyways , i love it ,good work, and great car to build.
 
Thanks guys!
Instead of sitting home with a hangover I got out to the shop early this morning and started some dirty work, cut out the trunk floor, wire brushed the crossmember and scraped off some black rust protection that some moron had sprayed on... I will paint the trunk body color.

Found out that I had a set of front hangers for super stock springs, Sven told med to drill two more holes in the so I can use them with my HD springs, quite a different compared to the old ones...

Thanks to Props thread work is going really easy, got two extra inner wheel houses that I will work with tomorrow. Need some lower parts and the lip to the QP.

I have a question too, the new frame rails are long enought to attach on the front side of the damper crossmember but when I look at the rail they are rock solid as you can see in the pictures, is it a big NO NO if I cut the new rails and weld them where the old frams are ending in the photos? It will be with one inch overlap since the new one fits inside the old one. Then I don´t have to mess with the crossmember.
 

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Seems like it wouldn't be a problem as long as everything is straight. If your going for a factory look, might not be what you want to do. Even then you can grind it down and put a little filler on it and no one would know but you. I just wish my rails were that solid, I ended up replacing both whole frame rails all the way to the under seat pan including the pan. Now I'm trying to make sure the shock crossmember is in the right place. Anyway, great work. Glad to see your making real progress. Keep it coming!
 
Swede, keep up the good work, and Happy New Year to ya!!
 
Damn!!! Spending two hours to clear up a spare wheelhouse to use the outer rim and when I was ready to mount it it did not fit!:angryfire:

They are from a 4 door car that I took the fenders and trunk lid from and the wheel houses looks the same but the are approx 2-3 inches lower (made for fender skirts?? ;)), I can use them if I cut them in three pieces and fabric two extra pieces to put in between them, will do so in a day or two.
This is on the drivers side where the QP is already in place, on the other side it will be easier as I can hang the QP with clecos and take measures and the remove it before welding, you can imagine put 6´5" and 245 lbs of big fat Swede in a wheelhouse cutting and welding, it was fun 20 years ago...
 
Came home from work and found the brackets blasted, painted and delivered, great!

Got my self a blasting cabinet (finally...) and it is really nice blasting small parts, will take on the bracket for the fuel tank straps so they look like new when I weld them to the new floor! This is the spare tire mount (Needless to mention, I guess 99.99 % of all here knew it...)
 

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Nice! It sure is amazing how much time can be saved and/or how well those cabinets bring smaller parts back to life. A must for a DIY resto.

Good work Swede!
 
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