Papst XX
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damn budy you´r doing a fantastic work
My Coronet project
- Thread starter TheSwede
- Start date
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
I bet that blasting cabinet will be a great help, Looking good Swede! Continued good luck to you...
detmatt1
Well-Known Member
Looks like the same cabinet I have and I see you already appreciate it as much as I do mine.
TheSwede
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Did´nt find any welding primer but Zink spray worked just as good, tank strap brackets and spare tire bracket are in place.
Damn it takes time fixing this rust...
Does the black AMD coating work as a primer? Shall I just rug it up a little before top coat or some kind of bedliner? It must be easier to do that now instead laying under the car and paint it...
Did´nt find any welding primer but Zink spray worked just as good, tank strap brackets and spare tire bracket are in place.
Damn it takes time fixing this rust...
Does the black AMD coating work as a primer? Shall I just rug it up a little before top coat or some kind of bedliner? It must be easier to do that now instead laying under the car and paint it...
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northerndave
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looking really good Swede!
Propwash
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Try to leave as much as you can on it. People refer to it as E-Coat, simply put Epoxy Primer Coat. I don't know if you caught it over on my resto thread, but I scuffed the e-coat with a 3M Scuff/finishing pad (till there is no shine left to it) coated with rust bullet, and then sprayed on the bedliner in the trunk area. Mainly because that's where these cars love to leak and rot out.
On the outside of the car, i'm leaving what I can on, but by no means is it the only sealer/primer base for the car. There are much more appropriate primers/sealers to use as the main foundation for the top coat.
Hope it helps! Progress is looking great..
Looking good Swede!!! Keep it up.
On the e-coat issue I’ve talked to my paint supplier about it before. They say the e-coat is primarily to keep the parts from rusting in the warehouse. Whatever you will be priming your car with (DP-90, filling primer, etc) you will need to paint that over the e-coat as well. And with what primer you chose you might need to do something different to the e-coat. For example DP-90 requires a different primer to be applied to the e-coat before applying the DP-90. You may or many not need to scuff up the e-coat as Cranky stated. It all depends on the primer you will use. It’s as easy as reading the instructions first. We all do that, right… :Groaner:
On the e-coat issue I’ve talked to my paint supplier about it before. They say the e-coat is primarily to keep the parts from rusting in the warehouse. Whatever you will be priming your car with (DP-90, filling primer, etc) you will need to paint that over the e-coat as well. And with what primer you chose you might need to do something different to the e-coat. For example DP-90 requires a different primer to be applied to the e-coat before applying the DP-90. You may or many not need to scuff up the e-coat as Cranky stated. It all depends on the primer you will use. It’s as easy as reading the instructions first. We all do that, right… :Groaner:
TheSwede
Well-Known Member
10-4 Sarge!
I bought a pair of new outher wheel houses instead of fabicating new ones by my self, it takes a couple of weeks to get them but I can work on the rails and doors instead, it won´t be hard to fill the days...
Found a tail light panel in TN that will arrive with the wheel houses, it is an used part from a junked car but it is a lot better than mine.
Also have one question about measures on the rails, on Donnys thread there is a pictures that I took and the question is if the measure C is the same for a 1970 Coronet? I guess so, but I want to be sure.
And I am thinking of buying a new tank, found one here, any toughts about it? Don´t want any leaking crap..
:coffee:
I bought a pair of new outher wheel houses instead of fabicating new ones by my self, it takes a couple of weeks to get them but I can work on the rails and doors instead, it won´t be hard to fill the days...
Found a tail light panel in TN that will arrive with the wheel houses, it is an used part from a junked car but it is a lot better than mine.
Also have one question about measures on the rails, on Donnys thread there is a pictures that I took and the question is if the measure C is the same for a 1970 Coronet? I guess so, but I want to be sure.
And I am thinking of buying a new tank, found one here, any toughts about it? Don´t want any leaking crap..
:coffee:
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detmatt1
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That measurement will be the same for your `70.
northerndave
Well-Known Member
Back to the "E-coat"
We're assuming that's what it is and it likely is.
Could also be "A-coat"
Both are dip coatings with an epoxy formulation being the most popular in manufacturing for automotive, power sports, agricultural, etc.
E-coat is electro deposition coating, basically it means they charge the paint tank and ground the parts as they drag them through the tank or index them into the tank for the prescribed exposure dwell time. They tune the film thickness by adjusting the % of actual paint that's in the tank (the rest is water) and they also adjust the charge to help achieve the desired coating weight.
A-coat is also a dip process but it's called Autophoretic, it doesn't use electricity. it relies on chemistry to attract and attach the paint bath solids to the substrate.
In either case the film can be very good but it is subject to the process utilized by the coater. Prior to these coatings tanks there will have been extensive pre treatment to prep the panels to accept the coating in the dip tank. The pre treatment is the foundation for the dip coating, it must be done correctly.
Then of course there is the cure, both of these coatings are basically junk until they are baked (cured).
I've been in the industrial coatings world for nearly 20 years.
What it comes down to is this, do I trust e-coat under my paint job? Do I trust e-coat to exist between my own paint job and the steel beneath the e-coat?
I'd trust my own e-coat, I'd trust e-coat from pretty much any reputable stateside coater.
Do I trust a Chinese process? Do I know who put the e-coat on my panels?
No, I don't trust a Chinese process and no I don't know where the parts were coated.
Is e-coat simply e-coat no matter who puts it on? No.
E-coat/A-coat both have potential to be the best foundation possible to build from in your body/paint efforts.
But if done incorrectly they also have the potential to be the weak link in your paint job.
On the outside of the car (class A surfaces) I remove all of the black mystery coating from my replacement panels and start fresh with a 2K epoxy as my foundation.
Back sides of the panels or trunk floors, floor pans etc, I leave it on.
Sorry for being out of charactor for a bit there, I'll be over in the corner here drinking cheap beer and watching archie bunker re runs if anybody needs me :grin:
We're assuming that's what it is and it likely is.
Could also be "A-coat"
Both are dip coatings with an epoxy formulation being the most popular in manufacturing for automotive, power sports, agricultural, etc.
E-coat is electro deposition coating, basically it means they charge the paint tank and ground the parts as they drag them through the tank or index them into the tank for the prescribed exposure dwell time. They tune the film thickness by adjusting the % of actual paint that's in the tank (the rest is water) and they also adjust the charge to help achieve the desired coating weight.
A-coat is also a dip process but it's called Autophoretic, it doesn't use electricity. it relies on chemistry to attract and attach the paint bath solids to the substrate.
In either case the film can be very good but it is subject to the process utilized by the coater. Prior to these coatings tanks there will have been extensive pre treatment to prep the panels to accept the coating in the dip tank. The pre treatment is the foundation for the dip coating, it must be done correctly.
Then of course there is the cure, both of these coatings are basically junk until they are baked (cured).
I've been in the industrial coatings world for nearly 20 years.
What it comes down to is this, do I trust e-coat under my paint job? Do I trust e-coat to exist between my own paint job and the steel beneath the e-coat?
I'd trust my own e-coat, I'd trust e-coat from pretty much any reputable stateside coater.
Do I trust a Chinese process? Do I know who put the e-coat on my panels?
No, I don't trust a Chinese process and no I don't know where the parts were coated.
Is e-coat simply e-coat no matter who puts it on? No.
E-coat/A-coat both have potential to be the best foundation possible to build from in your body/paint efforts.
But if done incorrectly they also have the potential to be the weak link in your paint job.
On the outside of the car (class A surfaces) I remove all of the black mystery coating from my replacement panels and start fresh with a 2K epoxy as my foundation.
Back sides of the panels or trunk floors, floor pans etc, I leave it on.
Sorry for being out of charactor for a bit there, I'll be over in the corner here drinking cheap beer and watching archie bunker re runs if anybody needs me :grin:
Good points northerndave! I’ll add that all of the new AMD pieces I’ve put on my car I tried sandblasting the coating off just to see how good it is adhered to the metal. All but one piece has had very good adhesion so I blasted the e-coat off that piece.
TheSwede
Well-Known Member
Update, waiting for the new parts I was planning to assamble the drivers door, you know that 10 months project that usally takes one day...
Had some problems with a missing hole in the -68 window so I bought a diamond drill planning to make a hole but with raising age so comes knowledge, lets try it first on another piece of glass!
Found a vent window for a 4 door and started drilling with water as a cooler, worked real great until Booom! 10 000 pieces of glass all over the shop, damn, I am so happy it was not the new window I blew up!
I skipped the hole...
Next was to put in the window in the door and it worked out OK, it was not so difficult that I thought, will take some pictures.
Third project was to drill the front hangers so they fit HD springs and SS springs too, piece of cake, I will start with the springs in the lower hole and if necessery put it in the upper hole, lower the car by an inch and a half if it gets to high with the new springs.
Anyone know where to get new bolts for the spring?
Had some problems with a missing hole in the -68 window so I bought a diamond drill planning to make a hole but with raising age so comes knowledge, lets try it first on another piece of glass!
Found a vent window for a 4 door and started drilling with water as a cooler, worked real great until Booom! 10 000 pieces of glass all over the shop, damn, I am so happy it was not the new window I blew up!
I skipped the hole...
Next was to put in the window in the door and it worked out OK, it was not so difficult that I thought, will take some pictures.
Third project was to drill the front hangers so they fit HD springs and SS springs too, piece of cake, I will start with the springs in the lower hole and if necessery put it in the upper hole, lower the car by an inch and a half if it gets to high with the new springs.
Anyone know where to get new bolts for the spring?
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roadrunnerman
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is there a hardware store that you can take the old bolts in and match them up to new ones?Or maybe pst suspensions would have them.
Propwash
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Common swede...trying to measure up a 59/64" distance is so much easier than a metric measurement...LOL!
I remember years ago in elementary school we were told we're going to convert to metric here in the U.S. soon!!! Still waiting on that to happen..........
I remember years ago in elementary school we were told we're going to convert to metric here in the U.S. soon!!! Still waiting on that to happen..........
Propwash
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Well dust off that old Qur'an and get a crackin amigo!! LOL
'69Net
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