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My new shop.

I though Texas was flat. lol.

Can't wait to see this thing done! I may have to buy the blue prints off you! haha
 
I though Texas was flat. lol.

Can't wait to see this thing done! I may have to buy the blue prints off you! haha
Some area of Texas is flat but not the whole state......but seems like in the summer most of it is on high heat! lol
 
I used "google sketchup" it's a free download, it's a little corny but it's very good for free software.

- - - Updated - - -

A little more ground work is complete. I'm sick of ground work, I want to see some concrete! lol!

IMG_5060_zps7d5c5774.jpg


No wonder it's taking so long there Dave . . . you've even put the dogs to work compacting the site . . . think that's going to take a while ! ( SMILE )

Hope you get concrete down soon . . .
 
Thanks guys.

We have some interesting tasks coming up soon. Now that the forms are set, I have something to measure from so I can locate and set my floor drains and the little bit of pluming I need to do (Just a toilet and a shop sink)

Then the interesting part.

We will be doing a heated slab under this building, this will be the primary source of heat for the building. We will have loops of 1/2" water tubing inside the concrete slab, heated water will be circulated through these water tubes to heat the concrete. The heat will be provided by an electric boiler which will be set up on it's own power meter with a remote shut off which is controlled by the power company. We call it "off-peak" electic.

Basically, here's how it works. The power company sells us kilowatts at a substantially reduced rate for this heating unit. There is a trade off for this reduced rate, the power company can and will shut the power off to that heating unit when they are experiencing high load requirements for customers. They can only shut it off for like 6 hours at a time I believe (something like that) and then they have to turn it on for at least 6. This plan allows them to free up some capacity for other customers. And since the concrete slab stores so much heat, most times when they have my power shut off to my heater, I won't even know it.

Now here's the part that I find interesting, because it's kind of new.

We will be insulating under and around the outside edges of the concrete with high density foam insulation. Now that in itself isn't really all that new of a concept, what is new is the idea of incorporating some spray foam for part of this slab insulation. We will be putting down sheets of 1" blue board foam insulation after the floor drains and pluming is set. These sheets will be cut to fit like puzzle pieces that will cover the bottom area of the pour. After the floor area is lined with this 1" blue board sheeting, a contractor will use a spray foam machine to apply an additional 1" of high density foam over the top of the 1" blue board. This will add R value and the spray will seal up all of the seams between blue board sheets, it will get us sealed up perfectly in the thickened edges of the slab and sealed up perfectly tight around all floor drains etc.

After the spray foam, the pex tubing will be laid out in a pre planned arrangement. We will route the tubing in a way that expels heating focus on the exterior perimeter of the slab as a priority, loops will be limited to 300' or less in length. The pex tubing will be fastened with special staples that hold it to the foam. Rebar will be placed and tied, then spaced up off of the foam and pex tubing. Then we can finally pour the concrete.

The foam insulation will prevent the earth around and under the slab from dissipating the heat from the concrete. It SHOULD be a very efficient building to heat.

That's kind of important for us located in far northern MN. The Canadian border is about 15 miles north of this shop.
 
Dave, did you look into geo thermal heating for you shop? Same concept with the tubes but instead of the boiler you use the ground.

Was just curious as to if you decided to not go that route for any reason if you did look into it.
 
The main thing right now is to get the tubes in the concrete. I'm pretty firm on my plan for off peak boiler, but I could be swayed to look at alternative methods for heating the water that's in the pipes.

Maybe even a wood boiler. :)
 
Nice... I want to see this come together. I'm hoping to add onto my garage this Fall. What type of foundation is up in the air.

are you near Roseau?
 
Yes, I am near Roseau.

I don't understand your foundation question?
 
It wasn't a question, I'm looking at adding on to my garage and I'm trying to decide what type of foundation I want to build on.
example, pole, block, slab.

I ride Polaris Snowmobiles... I've always wanted to take a trip to Roseau to visit the factory.
 
Polaris is a busy place, very impressive company. I have many friends that work there.
 
"The foam insulation will prevent the earth around and under the slab from dissipating the heat from the concrete. It SHOULD be a very efficient building to heat.

That's kind of important for us located in far northern MN. The Canadian border is about 15 miles north of this shop
."

To be honest Dave i never thought of just where this is being built, I again to be honest never knew of the foam insulation and being able to do this i sure sounds like it works well, 15 miles from Canada, that is going to most likely be a very cold spot, Your heating sounds unique, we have hear something of the same thing, ours is just the hot water heater and they have control as you said, we've never ran out of hot water and i always thought it was a pretty good deal myself. You'll be heating and maybe that's different in ways but if its anything like our hot water system im sure it will work well for you... This will be quite a shop and will be a great asset to you now and later when its time to hang it up and work/play at home. Im looking forward to seeing this one complete, i can only imagine what you can do in a shop that size.
 
the shop details are interesting. The under floor heating is interesting and practical especially in Minnesota. Are you going with a stand alone electric boiler or combination fuel? I'm interested to know what kind of BTU you need to maintain temp in your shop?
 
We're looking at an electric only and it sounds like the unit will be around a 24-26 KW. To have the capacity to "catch up" after being turned off for periods of time during cold temps.

I used a waste oil furnace in my last shop and I considered that again for this new shop. But after 10-12 years of being a used oil wrangler/scavenger I got a little tired of that whole scene. Besides, it is messy too. No mater how careful it seems like some oil always gets spilled. It's great for getting rid of used oil that you collect in the shop though.

I may still look at a small waste oil unit for back up heat.
 
Dave,
My cousins husband in R.I ran a loop of tubing in the concrete in the floor of his shop, same as you are planning.
It warms the concrete and keeps the place warm during cold winter months.
It is supposed to be efficient.

"super-bee_ski"
 
Thanks guys.

We have some interesting tasks coming up soon. Now that the forms are set, I have something to measure from so I can locate and set my floor drains and the little bit of pluming I need to do (Just a toilet and a shop sink)

Then the interesting part.

We will be doing a heated slab under this building, this will be the primary source of heat for the building. We will have loops of 1/2" water tubing inside the concrete slab, heated water will be circulated through these water tubes to heat the concrete. The heat will be provided by an electric boiler which will be set up on it's own power meter with a remote shut off which is controlled by the power company. We call it "off-peak" electic.

Basically, here's how it works. The power company sells us kilowatts at a substantially reduced rate for this heating unit. There is a trade off for this reduced rate, the power company can and will shut the power off to that heating unit when they are experiencing high load requirements for customers. They can only shut it off for like 6 hours at a time I believe (something like that) and then they have to turn it on for at least 6. This plan allows them to free up some capacity for other customers. And since the concrete slab stores so much heat, most times when they have my power shut off to my heater, I won't even know it.

Now here's the part that I find interesting, because it's kind of new.

We will be insulating under and around the outside edges of the concrete with high density foam insulation. Now that in itself isn't really all that new of a concept, what is new is the idea of incorporating some spray foam for part of this slab insulation. We will be putting down sheets of 1" blue board foam insulation after the floor drains and pluming is set. These sheets will be cut to fit like puzzle pieces that will cover the bottom area of the pour. After the floor area is lined with this 1" blue board sheeting, a contractor will use a spray foam machine to apply an additional 1" of high density foam over the top of the 1" blue board. This will add R value and the spray will seal up all of the seams between blue board sheets, it will get us sealed up perfectly in the thickened edges of the slab and sealed up perfectly tight around all floor drains etc.

After the spray foam, the pex tubing will be laid out in a pre planned arrangement. We will route the tubing in a way that expels heating focus on the exterior perimeter of the slab as a priority, loops will be limited to 300' or less in length. The pex tubing will be fastened with special staples that hold it to the foam. Rebar will be placed and tied, then spaced up off of the foam and pex tubing. Then we can finally pour the concrete.

The foam insulation will prevent the earth around and under the slab from dissipating the heat from the concrete. It SHOULD be a very efficient building to heat.

That's kind of important for us located in far northern MN. The Canadian border is about 15 miles north of this shop.

Make sure you do your research on the floor heat. My building 65 x 45 x 20 came wth my property. It was a new building with floor heat. Installed 800' x 2" of natural gas line an there was no boiler system. I bought the best system with a 100 gallon hot water tank that stores the hot water and we can use it elsewhere in the shop. I had the furnace people come back at least a dozen times and they just can't get it to be controlled by the thermostats and hold a steady tempature. I am guessing the issue is in the floor insulation and lex tubing. I did insulate the outside perimeter of the building with 1" foam 2' down, no change. So I have a overpriced heating system that I cannot get to work properly.
 
Nice... I want to see this come together. I'm hoping to add onto my garage this Fall. What type of foundation is up in the air.

are you near Roseau?

Looks like they are using a Monolithically turndown slab foundation. That is what we use in power station structure foundations. This type doesn't use block and doesn't need a footing. This design is very strong and cost effective plus it saves time.
 

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You can't beat radiant heat. Here's my yet to be completed radiant heating system. I can truly say been there, done that!
 

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[video=youtube;HMcQKz3H0yY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMcQKz3H0yY[/video]


Looking good! Pretty cool logo!
 
Thanks Prop.

The rain, slowing us down...

grrrr...

The diagrams and photos above are the type of thing we will be doing. I'll get some pics of the foam step, the tubing install and of course the concrete pour, if it ever happens.
 
You can't beat radiant heat. Here's my yet to be completed radiant heating system. I can truly say been there, done that!

That is new stuff to me! Cool as heck man..

Hope the rain stops for you Dave, we have it hear but were not building...
 
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