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My new stock stroke 400 build

I installed all the bracketry and guess what, I just need to make a few minor adjustments :lol:

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I worked on the adjustments today. The A/C brackets were easy. Clearancing the manifold was a PITA. I didn't end up with much of the coil boss left, but enough so it will locate the front of the bracket so it can't swivel.

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Just asking, is that torque converter with the weight on it correct for the balance job done on the crank ??
 
Actually we removed the weight from the converter and neutral balanced it. It does have a weight on the harmonic balancer and some Mallory in the rear counterweight.

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I should mention that the KB pistons were significantly lighter than the stockers, which helped with the balance.
 
The last of the test fitting today, I hope. I took some more time finessing the fuel line, and installed all the A/C brackets and everything clears.

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I thought I better check the clearance on the fuel line with the distributor installed. Of course it interfered. This time I hugged the block and brought it up under the A/C bracket. Now it clears. I also put two clamps on the hose, just for you Don. Oh yeah, and the correct thermostat housing.

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I posted this in the heating and cooling section but I also had to change the water pump idler pulley because of a bad bearing.

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While I was thinking about pulleys I thought I better check the crank pulley. I have an aftermarket damper, and sure enough the bolt holes didn't line up. A little work with the carbide and a round file and it is all fixed up. Tomorrow is supposed to be above freezing, so I will touch up the intake after my grinding and give all of the accessory brackets a quick coat.

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A little touch up paint. I knew the lift would come in handy. :rolleyes:

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I finished painting the black brackets, and then I tackled the dirty work. I drained the trans and disconnected all of the linkages. I took out the starter and driveshaft. The rear ujoint is going to have to be replaced, one cap is really notchy. It still has the crossbar holding the caps on, so I think it may be the original. Basically I just need to undo the engine and transmission mounts and it is ready to lift out.

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Okay I'm past the point of no return now. As usual I was working on my own. After disconnecting the rest of the transmission linkages I removed the transmission and motor mount bolts. I put one ratchet strap under the transmission pan and a second one under the tailshaft. I decided to move forward and set up the engine hoist. Before you know it I had it half way out. I am not sure I have enough stroke left on the hoist to clear the rad support, since I didn't account for how much the front end rose when the engine weight was removed. I decided to block it up with a 2x4 under the oil pan and call it a day. I may have to lower the torsion bars or let air out of the front tires...or both. I will wait until next weekend when I have some help.

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Good days work and the perfect stopping point. In my younger days I would have pressed on and screwed something up.
 
So the transmission is coming out as well?
I thought you were just doing an engine swap?
Perhaps I'm having a memory lapse here.
 
No I built a new transmission too Don. The 66 trans has an smaller input shaft which doesn't accept most torque converters. I picked up a 74 trans and had it rebuilt with a shift kit. The other advantage is that it has part throttle kick down. I had a converter redone as well with 2200 stall, which is just under my cruise rpm.

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Okay looks like it's on the lift. Then maybe take the front wheels off and just set the rotors/frame right on a piece of wood.
 
That's part of the problem. I had to raise the lift about 8 inches to clear the legs of the hoist. If necessary I could roll it back off the hoist and into the front bay of the garage. That's why I stopped. I have to do some calculations before I continue.
 
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