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My new stock stroke 400 build

Used 17747s on my 67 for years.
 
I said I was going to run the car with the 361 to get a baseline, so I did yesterday at St. Thomas Dragway. Not impressive, 17.4 at 81. It had a bog off the line and the trans was shifting early, so I probably could have shaved a tenth with more experimenting, but why bother?

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If it still bogs you can increase the secondary air valve adjustment by another half a turn.
 
I checked out the garage today and there was another small puddle of transmission fluid. Definitely the shaft seal. I got all of the linkage removed but I am going to have to order the seals.

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I forgot you added an extra turn to it ...... my bad.

You should be at least close to it by turning it back (clockwise) half a turn.
 
Thanks to Dave6T4 I now have the shaft seals I need. I picked up a new pan gasket and filter locally, so I will be draining the trans and pulling the valve body to install the new seals. Now I just have to find the time to get it done. I am pretty booked up the next couple of weekends.
 
I made a big mess today, several times. I pulled the valve body and got the two seals changed. I used a bolt and two heavy washers to pull the large seal in, and it worked great. I also spent about half an hour looking for that little retaining clip for the top seal that just flew once it let go.:rolleyes:

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Got the linkage cleaned up and reinstalled today and filled the trans with fluid. I went back several hours later.....no leaks :thumbsup:

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I figured I might be running rich after rejetting the carb for the 400 on the dyno. I put in leaner rods, but that is apparently not enough. I'm going to put the 80's back in the primary and leave the 82's in the secondary.

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The dyno session was done with headers?

The 400 will retain the manifolds in the car?

If so, you’ll probably end up with leaner jetting with the 400 than you had on the dyno.
 
Correct, open headers on the dyno, and manifolds in the car. I'll rejet now for the 361 and see how it works out for the 400. I checked a plug on the 400 after the dyno runs, and it certainly wasn't rich.
 
Thanks to Don Frelier I picked up a better piece of wheel well moulding at Carlisle. I should have taken a before picture because they literally ripped it off a rusted car without even removing any screws. After a lot of cleaning and straightening it worked out pretty well. It is a lot straighter than my flattened original. I also found out that they just masked off the trim when they painted the rear quarter. The good news is the wheel lip is really clean.

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I changed the primary jets back to the 80's, and put in one step richer rods than stock. I am pretty sure that was the setup before I started messing with it on the dyno. I will check the plugs again after the 3 hour round trip to Moparfest next weekend. For those of you who have never seen inside a Street Demon, here are some pictures. Looks a lot like a Thermoquad.

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Speaking of plugs, here is a plug from the 400 fresh from the dyno.

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Hope the carb works good, i have a 750 on mine and haven't had it apart but i know it's gonna be way too rich..
 
I changed the primary jets back to the 80's, and put in one step richer rods than stock. I am pretty sure that was the setup before I started messing with it on the dyno. I will check the plugs again after the 3 hour round trip to Moparfest next weekend. For those of you who have never seen inside a Street Demon, here are some pictures. Looks a lot like a Thermoquad.

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Some of the Street Demons come with a thin steel plate that goes under the carb during installation, not sure if this carb has that.

It looks like the float on the right is higher than the other float. (it could just be the picture)
 
Yes the plate is still on the manifold. I checked the floats and they are the same level.
 
I bought a pair of Dynomax Super Turbos to change out when I put the new engine in. I was never happy with the crappy welding job they did on the headpipes. They welded the 2 1/4 pipe over the stubs of the stock 2 inch Y pipe, and they always leaked. I have another set of flanges from the 73 engine. I bought 2 1/4 OD to 2 1/4 ID reducers. The plan is to cut the welds and use my carbide bit to open the flanges enough to accept the 2 1/4 OD and weld them. It will then be a tight fit over the head pipes and I can get a better weld.

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I figured I might be running rich after rejetting the carb for the 400 on the dyno. I put in leaner rods, but that is apparently not enough. I'm going to put the 80's back in the primary and leave the 82's in the secondary.

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Have you tried the half a turn clockwise on the secondary air valve adjusment?
 
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