My new stock stroke 400 build

[PRHeads]

I assume you’re running vac advance.
Ported or full time?

In this pic you posted, if that’s the position the blades are in currently, they’re open too far.
Insomuch as most of the transfer slot is already exposed, which means there’s very little left to be exposed during tip in.

It also appears there is a baseplate screw missing in the front center.
If there are only 6 screws in the baseplate, I prefer to put 3/3 in the front/rear, and leave the ones in the middle out.
Most(all?) new carbs have done away with the ones in the middle.

 

[qkcuda]

Thanks again for your input. Currently connected to full time vacuum, but I can try ported if you think it would help?

I did some more reading last night, and the symptoms I am experiencing seem like classic accelerator pump timing issues. They describe it as hesitation and sneezing back through the carb. The problem goes away with heavier application of throttle, so it seems to me that I just need to get the pump shot started sooner. I thought I had the pump arm clearance set pretty tight, but I will check it again.

 

[PRHeads]

The easiest remedy would be a pump adjustment, so that’s the logical place to start.

 

[qkcuda]

I finally got around to spraying primer on the engine today. I used Mark's torch technique first and couldn't believe how much moisture came out. I wasn't too concerned about overspray as I bought a different brand of turquoise paint and everything is going to need an extra coat.

 

[qkcuda]

Got the colour on it today. It turned out pretty well. The Mancini's turquoise paint is pretty much an exact match for the Mopar paint I was using before. I gave the pre painted parts a quick coat, but it really wasn't necessary.

 

[Don Frelier]

Looks like you skimped on the washers for the engine stand

 

[qkcuda]

Just too cheap to go and buy shorter grade 8 bolts.

 

[Don Frelier]

Just too cheap to go and buy shorter grade 8 bolts.

There's a whole "CHEAP" thread here.
Perhaps you can contribute something valuable?

 

[qkcuda]

I am too cheap to contribute anything valuable.

 

[Don Frelier]

I am too cheap to contribute anything valuable.

Not even your wealth of knowledge?

 

[Orig69]

The engine looks good.

It could be a good time for a cylinder head re-torque.

Re-torque spec is 75 foot pounds.

 

[71Beeper]

If you have Fel-pro head gaskets then a retorque is not necessary....unless you have aluminum cylinder heads.

 

[qkcuda]

They are Fel-Pro permatorque blue gaskets. I have used them and never retorqued them. I may, however, have to remove a couple of the lower head bolts to install some factory wire separators, so I can check those before I take them out. If they are OK the others should be fine.

 

[qkcuda]

Not much to report today, but I did get the new aluminum water pump painted, and the masking tape removed from the front of the engine. I also marked the damper at 0 and 35 degrees to help with setting the timing.

 

[PRHeads]

Is the plan to install the engine and get a test drive or two in prior to snow flies?
Or swap it over the winter and be ready for the start of next season?

 

[qkcuda]

It will be an over the winter project. I may get a couple more decent days to run the 361. I am still trying to dial the Holley in. Hopefully if I can get that sorted before the snow flies, it will be one less thing to worry about when the new 400 goes in.

 

[Don Frelier]

That's not the correct water outlet.

 

[qkcuda]

It is exactly the same as the original Don. The one on the dyno was the 73 pump housing. I took these pictures of the original at Carlisle before I bought the new one. If you are talking about the thermostat housing, yes it will be swapped over.

 

[RemCharger]

I wonder if they put the temp sender in the same position as th 66 housing.

 

[qkcuda]

I believe it is the same. I will get some more pictures when I get it installed.