OK....what am missing?
New 440 build issues
- Thread starter chermik1999
- Start date
BSB67
Well-Known Member
How to use the compression calculator correctly.
OK would you mind showing me..
I have run into this before with Ross Pistons and BSB67 is correct, you have it backwards. Aftermarket manufacturers call it -4.00cc, but what they mean that 4cc is added to the volume, NOT subtracted from it. I told the tech guy at Ross that it must be that new math that they teach! Look at the "Flat" top of the piston, and then look at the divot in the top of the piston. The ONLY outcome is that volume is added. The only way a hole will result in a subtraction is when a step or dome of some sort is on top of the piston like KB pistons do.
Yes...Ty explained it to me. I was reversing the CC value..I feel so dumb. Guess should have read the instructions in the Calc...lol.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
UPDATE:
Just received the rotating assembly from the balancing shop. Now the assemble.
Will keep posted as run stand is now complete. Just waiting for 1.6 rockers, measure push rods and start up. Trying for end of next week...see how she goes
Just received the rotating assembly from the balancing shop. Now the assemble.
Will keep posted as run stand is now complete. Just waiting for 1.6 rockers, measure push rods and start up. Trying for end of next week...see how she goes
I have to say my brain fizzled after reading 7 pages of this post. 60 odd posts and no mention of true compression ratio or cylinder pressure. Couldnt rvrn finish all 15 pages. So I would like to make this recommendation for future hot rodders that are learning the craft. #1 What is the intended use? Race, street, or the worst if all both. In a given time frame how much money can you spend? Now you can start. For your intended use how much cylinder pressure/compression can you live with? If it's a track car. Make the compression 14-15-1. Good race gas isn't much more than cheap race gas. Unless your making 300 passes a year? Then my suggestion is E85. Send the compression to the max. Better power. Race fuel cost per pass isn't that much. If a true street car? What fuel? How much converter and gear will you tolerate if it's a street car? If you don't make these decisions first you are making a mistake. Think first, spend second. It's hard when your knowledge base is limited. Not that anyone is dumb. You just don't do this stuff everyday. Ask lots of questions. Find people who have quick stuff (not talking Street Outlaws ETs but in your desired range). Basic layouts for performance are readily available. Use them and you'll be pleased with the results. I am not the smartest guy in the world. But been doing this stuff along time. I'm willing to help anybody.
Doug
Doug
Hey Doug
Good comments. As you have read, I was given the wrong product by the builder and worst of all was the guy supplying the parts didn't think either.
So 2 different people not working together and ask me what I wanted. I actually told the fellow but wasn't listening.
So now I have all the parts to make this right. At least it would appear that all the machining was done property.
I'm assembling as we speak. So should have what I want now.
But you're right. Next time I'll make sure I convey my concerns ahead of time so the build is right the first time.
Good comments. As you have read, I was given the wrong product by the builder and worst of all was the guy supplying the parts didn't think either.
So 2 different people not working together and ask me what I wanted. I actually told the fellow but wasn't listening.
So now I have all the parts to make this right. At least it would appear that all the machining was done property.
I'm assembling as we speak. So should have what I want now.
But you're right. Next time I'll make sure I convey my concerns ahead of time so the build is right the first time.
Its to bad that this happens. Not only is it time consuming and costly. Some give up on their dream. It happened to me once. and it was a "name" shop. Then and there I pleadged to learn what I neded to succeed.
Doug
You're not kidding. I've been on this since last July. Taking out nov-apr in mexico.
So this should be the last time. I'm doing it now after they sent me all the parts.
Had the assembly balanced this time, so not much to wrong except for my assembly. Taking my time, keeping clean, lots assembly lube etc.
Expecting a good outcome ..
So this should be the last time. I'm doing it now after they sent me all the parts.
Had the assembly balanced this time, so not much to wrong except for my assembly. Taking my time, keeping clean, lots assembly lube etc.
Expecting a good outcome ..
Ok...update to this thread.
I've got the engine back together getting ready to do a breakin. Rotating assembly was balanced and new cam all lubed up. Just finalizing the details. But have a new problem.
I've got the engine back together getting ready to do a breakin. Rotating assembly was balanced and new cam all lubed up. Just finalizing the details. But have a new problem.
I purchased a starter plate from the fellow on ebay. Fabbed it to a allstar engine cradle. Worked well for the GTX 440 to check that one out. Had bad stamped rockers, so replaced with rollers and push rods from Smith Bros. Lifter noise gone and runs good.
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So now the problem 440 that's been rebuilt back on. But the starter now binds on the ring gear? I've played with this for 2 days now. Finally cut off part of a 727 housing to make a BH and using a flywheel instead of a half TC. And same thing. It just won't release ? What the heck a m i doing wrong?
Anyone else had similar issues and any problem solving?
Curiousyellow71
Well-Known Member
Some of these mini starters can require a small bit of clearance on the block, look there first. The block can push the starter slighly not letting it seat squarely on the transmission cocking the starter slightly causing it to bind.
If the ebay part is made in china..it may be faulty as well.
If the ebay part is made in china..it may be faulty as well.
Well apparently he makes them himself with CNC. But that's why I did a cut off BH from a 727 case. I think the starter drive is going in too far. I'll run a few thin washers and see what it looks like.
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Thing is, I ran this setup on the vehicle before the run stand. And now all of a sudden having issues. I don't get it? No room for movement sideways. Only in and out.
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RemCharger
Well-Known Member
This^^^^
GOT IT! These starters have a larger hole on top causing alot of movement. I put the stud on top instead of bottom, little tweaking and were golden. But i did ditch the starter plate for a BH setup. After a few emails from the ebay fellow, found out he doesnt follow a BH pattern for either BB or SB plates. I suppose it works, but i didnt want to play around anymore. Lines it up for the starter and then cuts. Better with a BH anyway as now I have a ring gear cover. And no guessing for too much alignment.
With some of the good Lord's grace, my next post will be a running 440 youtube. Stay tuned..
With some of the good Lord's grace, my next post will be a running 440 youtube. Stay tuned..
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