No oil through passenger rocker arms

[Daves69]

The oil port in the block is a lot smaller than the bolt hole. You need a small diameter wire that you won't break off and become a restriction.
The small hole in the block you are trying to hit is the top one. The corresponding hole in the head intersects the rocker shaft bolt hole. The hole in the rocker shaft is opened up for oil to pass through......

If the cam bearing is spinning with the cam, would it not still oil both sides?

 

[khryslerkid]

If the cam bearing is spinning with the cam, would it not still oil both sides?

I guess it would if the bearing is stuck to the cam.

Hey, thanks for the pictures and diagrams

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

Greer buddy! Welcome to the madness that is FBBO!

I hope you get yer oiling situation all figured out.

Hey mate! Definitely seems like a different pace from the big C-Bodies! Hope to soak up all the wisdom over here

 

[oldbee]

From ur address it sounds like ur wrenching in a parking lot?!! Ooh-rah.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

From ur address it sounds like ur wrenching in a parking lot?!! Ooh-rah.

The best place to wrench! A full tool box and you work by the daylight and elements. Semper!

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

Thanks for the diagram Dave. Didn’t realize the port was above and offset from the bolt holt. I ended up feeding a wire down the port and there doesn’t seem to be any obstructions like grease, debris, etc. Just some old oil that’s still in good shape. Tried turning the crank slowly to see if itd snag or contact the wire but nothing.

Really was hoping I wouldn’t have to break this motor down but glad I decided to listen to my better judgement and pull the valve covers instead of listening to my friends (GM folk) rationality of just “sending it”.

Thanks for everything so far gents

 

[wyrmrider]

I'd blow it out with brake or carb cleaner (eye protection) then put a bore scope down
it's unfortunate that you can't feel the cam turning

 

[miller]

It's a PITA!
Too bad it's coming out like that. (Could be something very simple.)
Unfortunately, ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Might help, understanding what your looking at. On the head, the #4 rocker stand, that the rocker shaft bolts to. Yeah, beside the bolt hole, is the oiling port. That port goes through the head, through the head gasket, then to the block ports.
If you were to pull the intake manifold, you would see those two oil port 'bosses', in line with the #4 cam bearing. It's a straight shot oil port, through that section of the block. (I don't know if it would be worth pulling the head, to get to things. Probably not.) But, then again...

Can't say if the cam bearing spun, or just not installed right. That takes an eye on it. Yeah, cams can be too tight, and turn those bearings.

You say your wire won't go in very far...how far? To the block deck surface?

 

[moparedtn]

The oil port in the block is a lot smaller than the bolt hole. You need a small diameter wire that you won't break off and become a restriction.
The small hole in the block you are trying to hit is the top one. The corresponding hole in the head intersects the rocker shaft bolt hole. The hole in the rocker shaft is opened up for oil to pass through......
View attachment 894677

View attachment 894727


If the cam bearing is spinning with the cam, would it not still oil both sides?
View attachment 894676

Pretty awesome stuff, right there. Thanks for taking the time to generate these!

 

[33 IMP]

If this is a fresh rebuild, i would bet that the builder( apologies if that was you) put the number four cam bearing in wrong. My guess is that one hole was lined up with the oil passage, not both. Chevy guy put it together?

 

[Daves69]

....Thanks for taking the time to generate these!

Pitchers always help me talk

Oops, I mean pictures!

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

Well took the car to a buddies shop... We are pulling the engine this weekend and taking a look. A friend of his has a machine shop. I suppose I might start another thread.

I know on some type of engines that if a cam bearing is spun, the block is basically trashed. However, that does not apply to these old RB engines does it? I was pretty sure that I’ve heard you can get cam bearings installed and some machining work done from anywhere from $500 to $1000 depending on what is needed

 

[1968rt]

block will be fine, the mains oil first then the cam and heads

 

[69L48Z27]

You’ll need to figure out why it spun. Sometimes these cams are tight and the bearings need cut. If you install a new cam and can’t turn it by hand easily you’ll need to fix that.

I’m fortunate with machine work here. Just had a 440 and heads ‘done’. We honed and installed new cam bearings. He took the heads apart, relapped the valves, new stem seals, and checked all springs. $140.

The most was a 360, cooked, bored over, cam bearings. Heads cooked, valves and seats cut, all new guides and I think that was maybe $600.