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Pig rich mixture at idle 2 x 4 Gen 2 hemi

Thanks wacko!
I’ve been running 93 non ethanol through it
my thoughts were to run a 50-50 mix of 93 and 100LL which would be around 96 octane
by my calculations. I’ve also been thinking real hard on a MSD 6A or AL and using the points distributor for the trigger. looks like i just run off one set of and while on the subject of points which set is the leading points? I see there’s one set more robust and it seems to me that that would be the trailing set since they are doing most of the work.
 
The Primary set of points is the first set that opens. Watching when the timing mark comes into position and looking at the points you'll see which set opens first.

(Third post)
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...o-set-gap-on-a-dual-point-distributor.459917/

Thanks Kryslerkid!
I know how to set the points and dwell my question is the two point sets are different in the distributor one set has a smaller contact area than the other as in different duty rating. the trailing set of points are the ones that break the charging load to the coil primary. have look at the pics which set here should be the trailing set?
ECAFCE57-1284-4C46-9D1A-B55B4D410047.jpeg
 
Thanks Kryslerkid!
I know how to set the points and dwell my question is the two point sets are different in the distributor one set has a smaller contact area than the other as in different duty rating. the trailing set of points are the ones that break the charging load to the coil primary. have look at the pics which set here should be the trailing set?View attachment 1225758

I'm not too sure about them being different. I'm using a Mallory and they are both the same.

@HALIFAXHOPS
 
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Yes, absolutely get the ignition figured out and a hot spark delivered to those plugs before again
trying to adjust anything else.
By the way, I probably have enough components over here to set you up with a factory electronic
ignition (minus the few wires needed) if you wish.
Distributor, ECU, ballast, all that jazz.
I've also got a single point setup, for what good that would do....
 
Thanks Ed!
that’s an awesome gesture buddy and i appreciate it. I do have a good electronic setup here to use if I can’t get the points to work out.
 
The points should be the same, there were several variations. One opens to fire and the other closes to charge the coil. So when you are rotating towards a firing position, one set will open first, the second set to open is the primary for firing the coil. The other set will than close first. How you get a slightly longer dwell. Both have to be open to fire, one closes to start charging the coil. G
 
The points should be the same, there were several variations. One opens to fire and the other closes to charge the coil. So when you are rotating towards a firing position, one set will open first, the second set to open is the primary for firing the coil. The other set will than close first. How you get a slightly longer dwell. Both have to be open to fire, one closes to start charging the coil. G

Thanks after a bit of research I find that the part numbers are the same for both sets. I think there’s just different variants in the distributor I repaired the ground lead for the breaker plate so I’ll get the gap and dwell set and look at the coil voltages closer.
 
Thanks after a bit of research I find that the part numbers are the same for both sets. I think there’s just different variants in the distributor I repaired the ground lead for the breaker plate so I’ll get the gap and dwell set and look at the coil voltages closer.
Also, You do not need to remove one set of points to use. The orig Super stock transistor ignition used a dual point distributer just without the condenser.
 
Ok guys i’ve been busy so here’s what i’ve found on this hemiroid:lol:
The ignition was weak as piss so i fiddled with the points checked the dwell tried different coil and put in electronic setup still weak so now its got a MSD 6A and blaster 2 coil and MSD pro billet distributor I fixed that crap! and also my intake was still leaking.
So i pulled it again and i’ve been figuring on it quite a bit. I have a factory intake here and after looking at it and the stage V for a few minutes something dawned on me.
So here’s a pic of the face of the stage V
E5733950-A4AB-453B-890C-CF66017E1EB2.jpeg

and here’s the gasket
C4A5B4C9-73EA-4BB9-9245-DC1F0003E852.jpeg

Now here’s the face of the factory intake
43E6E270-A6C8-4F88-AEC0-2DBA7E5BD6AB.jpeg

It seems to me that the factory intake would apply the torque to the gasket in the most important areas instead of trying to squish the whole dang gasket.
That got me to thinking about the gaskets that edelbrock and felpro offer like these.
6FDA89AD-4C94-4D6C-82DF-319A6FC0B1F1.jpeg

Its stands to reason you would get way more squish where it really matters with either the full body gasket and the factory intake or the felpro and the stage V.
while on the subject of intakes how silly would i be to try to run the factory intake on this 500 inch hemi? and use the progressive
carb linkage.
Im not giving up on the stage V yet but for street driven car would the factory dual plane not make more sense? Of course i have no idea if it plays well with the cam i have in there.
 
How did you conclude your intake is leaking? I thought the blue pattern look good. I not sure the gasket design matters. We use a 3M nitrile rubber glue #837 to glue the gasket to the head. Let it sit overnight. Then apply white lithium grease to the manifold side of gasket before placing the intake on with threaded rod at the corners to guide the manifold down. The front and rear gasket we use liberal black silicone especially into the corners.

What does the internals of the V intake look like? Most open plenum not very good for a street hemi. The vanke mod was not a good combination for the street. Good for track. Plenty of larger displacement hemi run fine with street manifold. Distribution was a significant issue with the street hemi. You can see it in all the assymetric tabs, jetting and even secondary discharge ports in the hemi carburetors.
 
the stage V is a single plane with wide open runners straight shot to every port you can see straight to every intake valve. The intake has been sucking some oil as there’s evidence of oil in the intake ports.
 
Has the intake been machined? Do the surfaces match the head surfaces with a uniform gap for the gasket? If you had oil in the intake then you probably did have a slight vacuum leak from the crankcase.
 
Has the intake been machined? Do the surfaces match the head surfaces with a uniform gap for the gasket? If you had oil in the intake then you probably did have a slight vacuum leak from the crankcase.

No machining on the intake I set the intake on without gaskets and can’t get a .002 feeler gauge to slip in on three corners top to bottom and on the 4th corner .002 will just fit top to bottom.
 
Interesting on manifold, can see from the bottom picture you posted. Looks to have a casting channel to allow front to back communication between carbs, but clearly front carb to front 4 cylinder and rear to back 4. Just doesn't seem like that is a good setup for street, but I don't have any experience with that manifold.

I guess you don't really know if the oil is from a poor seal, or from excess oil via the PCV connection? How tall is the gap at the front/rear chin wall? With this manifold it would seem like you can visually see how the ports match to the head.
 
Interesting on manifold, can see from the bottom picture you posted. Looks to have a casting channel to allow front to back communication between carbs, but clearly front carb to front 4 cylinder and rear to back 4. Just doesn't seem like that is a good setup for street, but I don't have any experience with that manifold.

I guess you don't really know if the oil is from a poor seal, or from excess oil via the PCV connection? How tall is the gap at the front/rear chin wall? With this manifold it would seem like you can visually see how the ports match to the head.

I’m not currently running a PCV the gap at the china walls without gaskets in place is around .030 or so and with gasket on and torqued around .125.
Yes I can see the port alignment which is great with the gasket in place there’s no air dams so to speak that would create turbulence. I’ve done compression test as well as leak down test and all are good.
Heads are new done by Ray Barton.
The port work required brass tubes for the push rod holes and i could see evidence of some type of sealant that was used when they were pressed in.
My thought was that it could be possible for oil to be sucked in the ports through those if not properly installed.
When i removed the intake bolts they had oil on the threads and smelled of gasoline so by the design of the gasket i see that as a gasket leak. also there’s is still some fuel getting in the crankcase.
 
Are you going to use the gaskets pictured below picture of stock intake? Think they would compress better without all the extra gasket material.
 
Are you going to use the gaskets pictured below picture of stock intake? Think they would compress better without all the extra gasket material.

I plan to cut the superformance gasket to match the design of the felpro gasket.
I also plan to give Greg a call to see if he would entertain the idea of offering his gaskets cut in the felpro design.
 
Re; fuel in oil.
Running an engine on a test stand does little for seating the rings.
 
Re; fuel in oil.
Running an engine on a test stand does little for seating the rings.

This short block has been ran previously the rings and cylinder surfaces are not new. The pistons and rings have been removed from the bores and returned to the bores they came from.
 
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