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Post your 10 second combo's

Most say the true gear ratio is with a 28" tire. So if you have 3.91's that would be the true gear ratio. I use 4.30's with a 30" tire which is like a 3.91 or 4.10 with 28" tires. Your car should run good with 3.91's or 4.10's. Ron
 
speaking of gears. I ran last night but seem to run out of motor at the end of the track. maybe 100 ft before the end I was thinking I need a gear change currently running 4:56
 
Canyon707,
you will have to be sure you are not running out of fuel , cam/motor first . ie what revs are you pulling etc
in saying that I have had the same situation with my car . Initially with 3.90 went to 4.10 pulled harder and gained et and mph . I run a 28" radial , when I tried a 29.5" radial I again had the same issue , soft in the top end , really need 4.30 with those tyres .

Tex
 
CalTracMT'sWeld.jpgtires shocks.jpg
Steve Good luck, Jim & Cody LaRoy, ala LaRoys Engines out of Challis Idaho :headbang: , will give you a great engine combo, if you listen & do what they say... You should be in the 11's pretty easily, you have a great base, maybe add either S/S springs & adj. pinion snubber or Calvert/CalTracs could get there with decent traction & properly tuned engine/chassis & tire/Converter {maybe more converter too, 2500 is kind of low stall speed for any 10 or 11 second car, 3500-3800 would work much better}... The intake & carburetor combo maybe could also be improved some also, squirter's accel.pumps cams air bleed, metering blocks, jet extensions on the rear, trim air horn, etc. lots of places/part to tune/tinker with... Take weight out of the car where ever you can, power to weight ratio is the whole deal sometimes, especially with these heavy cars, maybe move the battery to the pass. side rear trunk, add some adjustable, front & rear drag shocks, larger sending unit 3/8" min. & fuel lines 3/8"/or #6AN min, adequate fuel pump, that will work fine on the street or track, help to achieve the 11 second ET goals....

Here is my new Cal Trac setup complete with rear 9 way adj shocks and 90/10 frt shocks
 
Canyon707,
you will have to be sure you are not running out of fuel , cam/motor first . ie what revs are you pulling etc
in saying that I have had the same situation with my car . Initially with 3.90 went to 4.10 pulled harder and gained et and mph . I run a 28" radial , when I tried a 29.5" radial I again had the same issue , soft in the top end , really need 4.30 with those tyres .

Tex

Tex I had been thinking about 4.30 gears. I dont think its a fuel issue with two fuel pumps and two filters fuel pressure gauge read 7 lbs when running. Worth looking at for sure. my engine is a 6K motor when built dynoed its best at that number 550 hp
 
Canyon707 ,
with those fuel indicators that doesn't seem it . unless you are running peashooter fuel lines :eek:
my motor on the chassis dyno made peak at around 5700 , I shift at 6000 trap at around 63/6400 . does not need a high winding shift point but will hang on past where I spin it . I did build it to these rpm ranges as it is a daily driver/bracket racer and I wanted to get the best reliability/life from it . bottom end has been together since late 2007 . plus not legal for faster than 11.00 - no roll cage etc
good luck

Tex
 
Race weight 3650, .030 over 440, 727, 9 inch tires and Am radio.
 
Canyon707 ,
with those fuel indicators that doesn't seem it . unless you are running peashooter fuel lines :eek:
my motor on the chassis dyno made peak at around 5700 , I shift at 6000 trap at around 63/6400 . does not need a high winding shift point but will hang on past where I spin it . I did build it to these rpm ranges as it is a daily driver/bracket racer and I wanted to get the best reliability/life from it . bottom end has been together since late 2007 . plus not legal for faster than 11.00 - no roll cage etc
good luck

Tex

No The fuel lines are large running about 7 lbs. I replaced this past week my wires, went with 8.5 MSD super conductor, cap and rotor all MSD setup.
I know that will help some since looking at them I realized that was something I should have done prior to writing this. I had older 8mm Mallory wires but the just seemed a bit lose at the plugs. I also opend the gap .010 on thenew NGK plugs. My best time to date was a 10.86 I have yet to repeat that. My next thisg is to check the air fuel ratio and see whats goin on with that.I also may take a bit of timming out from 37 see how if it changes anything.
 
Thanks for the props Mike. I believe there is still more in it too. There are quite a few things I want to try, my goal is to get it to 60ft in the 1.30's - all I need is more money. . .
 
Tell us more about the car and what is your best 60ft ?
Mick

440 - .030 over, '65 stock steel crank 445.8 CI
11:1 Arias flat tops, fully prepped LY rods (floating pins)
Out of the box Indy EZ heads, Super Victor, 1050 Dominator
Custom Robert Landy solid flat tappet,
roughly .600 lift with 1.6 Crane Gold rockers
CPPA 2-inch primaries w/extensions
727 (foot brake) and 4800 ATI converter (flashes higher than 4800)
30x9R Hoosiers, Full Caltracs set-up
8 3/4, spool 4.56 ratio, race weight - 3650 lbs
Best to date 60ft - 1.45

Things I want to try -

1. Free up the front suspension by installing tubular upper control arms (heim joint style), poly lower control arm bushings (greaseable) & adjustible strut rods.

2. install 10 inch wide rims for a better slick footprint.

3. Put my transbrake back in along with a low gear set.

4. Install Dana 60 so I can play with the 2-step RPM and not have to worry about grenading the 8 3/4
 
My set up is quite similar to yours, i have a bit more comp and better rods, you have a bit more lift and raised port heads, i have a dana on SS springs, which i now wish i'd changed for ladders or 4 link and i have tubular uppers. I gained more from afco doubles on the rear, my best 60ft is 1.36 but the run didn't go to plan as i think it would have been a 10.0? at least.
I would definitely upgrade to a dana before you break the 8-3/4, you will get a lot of the cost back when you sell your present axle. Have the heads ported and mill a bit off them, that should be good for at least 2 tenths.
 
My set up is quite similar to yours, i have a bit more comp and better rods, you have a bit more lift and raised port heads, i have a dana on SS springs, which i now wish i'd changed for ladders or 4 link and i have tubular uppers. I gained more from afco doubles on the rear, my best 60ft is 1.36 but the run didn't go to plan as i think it would have been a 10.0? at least.
I would definitely upgrade to a dana before you break the 8-3/4, you will get a lot of the cost back when you sell your present axle. Have the heads ported and mill a bit off them, that should be good for at least 2 tenths.

Thanks for the input - my heads are Indy EZ the intake & exhaust ports are in the stock locations. You can open up the intake ports to max wedge size but mine are not, As a matter of fact the port roofs were filled with epoxy. I felt the "small" engine couldn't use the bigger ports. I see your pump is in a Dart - if I could lose 500 lbs ...watch out!

- - - Updated - - -
 
440 - .030 over, '65 stock steel crank 445.8 CI
11:1 Arias flat tops, fully prepped LY rods (floating pins)
Out of the box Indy EZ heads, Super Victor, 1050 Dominator
Custom Robert Landy solid flat tappet,
roughly .600 lift with 1.6 Crane Gold rockers
CPPA 2-inch primaries w/extensions
727 (foot brake) and 4800 ATI converter (flashes higher than 4800)
30x9R Hoosiers, Full Caltracs set-up
8 3/4, spool 4.56 ratio, race weight - 3650 lbs
Best to date 60ft - 1.45

Things I want to try -

1. Free up the front suspension by installing tubular upper control arms (heim joint style), poly lower control arm bushings (greaseable) & adjustible strut rods.

2. install 10 inch wide rims for a better slick footprint.

3. Put my transbrake back in along with a low gear set.

4. Install Dana 60 so I can play with the 2-step RPM and not have to worry about grenading the 8 3/4

Great stuff mate. Fantastic time and mph !!!

My son's Australian Valiant has similar spec but has only gone 11.2 @ 123, we need more stall and less head I would say, only got 3500 flash and the heads are maxed out 375cfm SR's.
 
Great stuff mate. Fantastic time and mph !!!

My son's Australian Valiant has similar spec but has only gone 11.2 @ 123, we need more stall and less head I would say, only got 3500 flash and the heads are maxed out 375cfm SR's.

Call up ATI and have them spec out a converter for you, when I finally decided to do it I asked the guy how much the car would pick-up. He said 5 tenths, the car picked up 4 tenths
 
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