Post your 11 second combos

[Blownmopar71]

I run a 4.30 gear and 28 in tall tire ,on the street its 50 to 55 mph @3000rpm,s. Runs down the 1/4 11.40s going through the traps @ 6100rpm,s

 

[deaks]

Ok...I need help guys. I bought this car 6 months ago. I have had it to the track twice before winter set in.
Best ET is 11.876 and 112.75. 1.699 60 foot and 7.521 at 660 foot. I think from My combo that it should run at least in the 11:20's or 11:30's. ???

It leaves straight as a arrow, no excessive wheel spin. Best ET is shifting 1-2 at 6200 and 2-3 at 6400.Goes thru traps at 6000. Doesn't lay down anywhere. Engine build is maybe 2 years old and could have 200 runs on the build..the only thing I am thinking is that maybe the rings and/or valve seats are worn and.or valve springs weak..GOTTA BE SOMETHING....

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK...SHOULD THIS COMBO BE FASTER THAN 11.876.

440 CUBIC INCH, 3700 LBS


Here is the combo:
1) Probably 3700 lbs although it does have fiberglass front fenders, hood and both bumpers and no back seat with Recaro type bucket sets. 6 point cage.
2) 4.10 Detroit Locker with Super Stock Springs and Pinion snubber adj at the way up.
3) 12 gal fuel cell with big Mallory Pump and big Fram Filter. Filter is new.
4) 30x13.50 MT ET Drag Radials with 11.25 tread
5) Weld 15x10 Super Lites and 15x3's on front.
6) Reverse Griner Valve body with 4000 Converter (Ultimate Converters)
7) Hurst Quarter Stick Pistol Grip with Line Lock

Motor:
1) Holley 950 HP Race Carb with 50cc primary pump installed and 35 tube type squirters and 1" Moroso spacer, No air cleaner on at track. Fuel Pressure regulator at 5psi.
2) Mopar M-1 Single Plane Intake.
3) Hooker Super Competition Headers with no tail pipe exhaust system on at track
4) Iron Heads off 1973 MotorHome. Ported. 2.19 Intake and 1.88 Exhaust Valves. Flow Intake 267CFM and Exhaust 216CFM at .600. Crane Aluminum Gold Roller Tip Rocker Arms 1.5 Ratio.
5) Cam is custom ground (no name) .570 Intake and .569 Exhaust, 104.1 Intake C/L, 108.1 Lobe Separation, 265 Intake and Exhaust Duration Solid Lifter with Smith Bros Pushrods.
6) Reported to me that pistons are 10-1 and that is all I know because I have not had heads off.
7) 440 stock bore and Stroke.
8) MSD Billet Dist with 6AL box with 2 step limiter box attached.

TUNING:
Ignition Timing 37 Degrees Total. 19 Degrees in Distributor and 18 degrees intitial advance. Springs set to come in total timing of 37 degrees at 3000 RPM.
Carb 78 primary jets, 79 Secondary Jets. 35 Tube Type Squirters.
Valve Lash is at .023 Hot.
I RUN VP 110 LEADED RACE GAS.

I set the low end launch rev limiter at 2500RPM, put my foot on the footbrake and floor it and release the footbrake when it is time to launch. The low end rev limiter switch is on the footbrake.
Like I said. I shift at 6200 on 1-2 and 6300 on 2-3 for the best ET's and it goes thru the lights at 6000.
Best time is 11.876 but most of the other runs are 11.92 to 11.95. I have only made 15 passes in the car. Fasted 11.876 and slowest in 11.95......very consistant but I think it should be faster.
PLEASE WEIGH IN AND GIVE ME YOUR OPINIONS

Your speed is in line with your et, to go 11.20's you will need to pull at least 117 mph. A set of ported edelbrock heads would get you where you need to be, also you dont need 110 race fuel in a 10.1 motor. I mix 112 50/50 with 97 Pump, gives me around 105 octane with nearly 13.1 comp.
Mick

 

[Canyon707]

I run a 456 gear and run through the traps at 122 mph goodyear slicks 14x30

 

[bobtile]

I run a 456 gear and run through the traps at 122 mph goodyear slicks 14x30

I bet your big tires are slowing you down.

 

[Canyon707]

I was also thinking that may be the case. Why may I ask and your suggestions always welcome

 

[bobtile]

I was also thinking that may be the case. Why may I ask and your suggestions always welcome

I say that partially because your car is 600 lbs lighter, you have more motor and better suspension than me. My car was 3690 and I was running 275/60/15 M/T streets and I would barely spin at all. I ran 11.3 with 1.57 60 ft. I think I may go even smaller on my tires. I see a lot of 1000 HP cars hook up with ladder bars and 29x10.5 tires. It just seems like you have way too much tire for your combo. Maybe someone else will chime in.

 

[Canyon707]

I had thought that it was a big tire when I got the car but, there still fairly new I wonder if there is a calculator to really nail this down to the proper size. I beleive it s you also talking about areo for this car also. I have been working on that but had a mishap today. I had my cordless drill on top of my radiator and knocked it off and it punched a hole in my radiator. That hurt big time. I have a few pics to show on how I built my al wheel well covers. I think that is going to make a big difference since there was way to much in the open. around the engine.

 

[dvw]

Those inner fenders look nice, light to. As far as the big tires, more drag, heavier. They probably don't kill it to bad. I hook my 9.20 car on 10.5x29.5 no issue, 1.29 60ft. It does have good shocks and correct suspension.
Doug

 

[Canyon707]

I assume I would have to get a different rims

 

[Budnicks]

those inner fenders should help to keep some or most of the parachuting effect out from under the front end

 

[Canyon707]

I am hoping that it does I found several areas that are catching air. Trying to get them covered. I am actually fabricating a part for under the front bumper to push the air gently downward and under the car.

 

[Longroof]

Canyon, what converter are you running? And have you done a leakdown on the engine. Sounds like your combination is suffering somewhere.. With the compression and roller cam your car should be a solid low to mid 10 second car but something is not working properly. Since you are bracket racing I would leave the big tires, you might be giving up .08 at the most... I don't think you will find but a couple of hundredths with the efforts to seal up the front of the car. Back when I had my Valiant and my cousin had his Duster those cars were pretty much identical weight, engine, trans, suspension, etc.... and they ran very close, on any given day they would be within 5 hundredths. My car had the front fender wells cut out his did not....

 

[Canyon707]

I dont think something is wrong. I looked at all the time slips back years and it never did better than 10.7. the car is set up to bracket race and it does that well. I really don't know what the converter is since I bought the car and just don't know that answer until I pull the trans and that's not going to happen anytime soon. I do the calcs and yes it should do better I agree If I get time I will do a compression test and leakdown test. Just right now trying to get it ready for Jan 24, 25 Summit bracket races. What type of converter you think I should be running?

 

[Longroof]

What are the specs on the cam? I would be looking at an 8" converter for sure for a dedicated drag car.

 

[Canyon707]

here is the comp cam card. mild cam 6000 rpm

 

[Mike Gaines]

Canyon, I will be at the Jan Summit 1 & 2 Race. see you there.

 

[Canyon707]

is that the 24 and 25th of Jan?

 

[deaks]

If your car is 12.1 comp, i think the cam is a little small, my car is similar in weight and combination to yours and i think you should be pulling at least 125 and mid 10's. I run a 9" converter, stalls at 5000.
Mick

 

[Canyon707]

Just about ready for my first race on 2015. The only thing I need is my radiator fixed. I dropped my cordles drill between the engine and the radaitor and it punched a small hole in it. In the shop now. thought I would share this pic I took today

 

[Canyon707]

I hope to say goodbye to the 11 second times. Prior time best for me 11.06 to date. I removed 132 lbs and elimiated several air dams in the engine compartment and wheel wells.